Today SRT4 whiz-kid mechanic Dave (Blazin) installed the Prothane front c-arm bushings on my ACR. Instead of reposting or rehashing the same old pix, let me share some of his install tips and tricks.
Firstly while removing the OEM arms, he very slightly bent the metal under the rear positioni bushing to make removal and reinstall easier - without having to move the strut.
Oh, then it doesn't hurt that he has a lift on the side of his garage
No surprises on the removal of the OEM arms, splash guard off, pencil strut off, lower motor mount off etc
Then to facilitate the removal of the OEM bushings, Dave trimmed the overhang from the front bushing so the press could just completely squeeze out the bushing.
Then to protect the round flange edge on the OEM unit, and keep the press operation quick, Dave used his plasma torch to make a template tool so the arm could sit in the press without shifting. I'll upload a youtube video of this later
No surpises on the REMOVAL of the OEM arms either - just an air wrench to get the long vertical and horizontal bolts out
Then burn out the shell from the rubber and reuse. Let the rubber burn away until it crumbles out of the larger hold. Dave just squirted lighter fluid on the parts then finished up with a torch
Then the wire sander to remove all excess burned rubber from the rear position reusable metal shell.
Putting the new PROTHANE bushings in is a snap, the rear are marked bottom and top and the contour of the bushing matches the profile on the OEM arms.
Ditto for the barrel shaped bushing pair, once the press fully removes the OEM bushing by trimming the overhang with scissors (above photos) - it just pops in
Then time to go back on the car:
A little rubber mallet tapping helped here. Then Lunch
Since other postings described the pinch bolt, just paint mark the front of the bolt if you forget the orientation. Dave didn't have to fiddle with the struts or the axle by creating a little re-install room with the very slight bend in the metal at the rear. The bolt pulled it right back up on the reinstall. The ball joints popped back in with some pushing. The axles didn't pop out. The reinstall was completely clean.
Driving impressions: better steering response, less wheel jiggle, quicker braking, more ride control on the freeway, less sway. I like it
We also changed my brake fluid - pix on that later.
Firstly while removing the OEM arms, he very slightly bent the metal under the rear positioni bushing to make removal and reinstall easier - without having to move the strut.


Oh, then it doesn't hurt that he has a lift on the side of his garage

No surprises on the removal of the OEM arms, splash guard off, pencil strut off, lower motor mount off etc

Then to facilitate the removal of the OEM bushings, Dave trimmed the overhang from the front bushing so the press could just completely squeeze out the bushing.


Then to protect the round flange edge on the OEM unit, and keep the press operation quick, Dave used his plasma torch to make a template tool so the arm could sit in the press without shifting. I'll upload a youtube video of this later



No surpises on the REMOVAL of the OEM arms either - just an air wrench to get the long vertical and horizontal bolts out
Then burn out the shell from the rubber and reuse. Let the rubber burn away until it crumbles out of the larger hold. Dave just squirted lighter fluid on the parts then finished up with a torch

Then the wire sander to remove all excess burned rubber from the rear position reusable metal shell.


Putting the new PROTHANE bushings in is a snap, the rear are marked bottom and top and the contour of the bushing matches the profile on the OEM arms.



Ditto for the barrel shaped bushing pair, once the press fully removes the OEM bushing by trimming the overhang with scissors (above photos) - it just pops in


Then time to go back on the car:


A little rubber mallet tapping helped here. Then Lunch

Since other postings described the pinch bolt, just paint mark the front of the bolt if you forget the orientation. Dave didn't have to fiddle with the struts or the axle by creating a little re-install room with the very slight bend in the metal at the rear. The bolt pulled it right back up on the reinstall. The ball joints popped back in with some pushing. The axles didn't pop out. The reinstall was completely clean.
Driving impressions: better steering response, less wheel jiggle, quicker braking, more ride control on the freeway, less sway. I like it
We also changed my brake fluid - pix on that later.