You sure do like to post up your threads with long run-on sentences without punctuation....
Not trying to be a dick or like the grammar police or whatever, but it makes it hard to read.

i'm going to help you....

Okay I thought I posted this question a while back but I can't find it, so yet again I'm here asking for assistance. I just did my first motor pull and in the process I found countless problems.

1. shaft play on my Turbo
2. crack in the exhaust / turbo manifold
3. the valves on 3 cylinders are white, with an almost oxidation look and one valve is black.

I'm pretty sure the block came from a junkyard because, the paint was stripped and it had a layer of rust on the outside and yellow marker writing "SRT." Regardless, I have many questions and I would love to hear some answers and opinions. I like the exhaust manifold and I like the cast iron because it can be ported easily and Polished. I'm pretty sure that the turbo is built into the manifold. Should I get a new Turbo and a stainless manifold? I'm not sure what all it will take.

1. A turbo with shaft play is never good, but if minimal can still be used for years. Is the shaft play in and out, or side to side?
2. Cracks in the OEM manifold are very VERY common. They can be welded up by someone who knows how to weld cast iron, but they will likely crack again in the future. The cracks arent good, but if minimal can still be used for years.
3. Post pictures how what you're describing with the valves.

Yes the turbo is built into the manifold. There are no aftermarket manifolds for the stock turbo, other than modified stock manifolds.

 

I apologize for the horrible grammar, I've been having to use talk to text because I consistently have interruptions. I've attached a video with a few of my questions. I don't mind having to buy another Turbo and manifold I'm just curious as to which Turbo to buy. I've heard many success stories and many horror stories from eBay turbos but considering the ones that I like to buy come with a guarantee I'm not too worried about it would a v band turbo be acceptable and what size should I go with. I looked up the part number on my piston and it comes back to Wiseco I looked out the parts number on my rod and it came back to Eagle I'd like to go with a big wheel or if not, big wheel internals

 

 

Sorry i cant watch your video. I browse the forums from my work (goverment) computer and youtube is blocked.

IF you are set on staying with a stock frame turbo/maniold, i would look into turbobay performance for the turbo. IDK who has modified/upgraded stock manifolds.

IF you are considering something larger, you can pick up an AGP, or ATP, or treadstone manifold for pretty cheap...

 

Here is your thread you were looking for. It was posted 4 days ago. First ever motor pull and overhaul

 

Well the crack isn't going to get saved. I need a new manifold so I'm going with the 38mm cast iron one my next question is what do I need to beef up the turbo. I think I can use the housing side of the turbo for that manifold but I need to get a separate compressor side and cartridge also what mods can I do to make it a bws I believe it's called the big wheel stocker

 

I think you may be a bit confused on how all the exhaust stuff comes together. The stock turbo and manifold (also known as a turbofold) are basically one peice. Yes, the compressor side of the turbo can be removed from the manifold, but they are built to be together. I do not think there is any other exhaust housing that can be bolted up to that compressor to allow that turbo to bolt up to a different manifold.

IF you want to use a manifold like the one pictured, you are going to need a turbo with a T3 style exhaust housing and a wastegate of the appropriate size and flange setup. Personally, (and this isnt a popular belief) i think that manifold you're looking at will work fine (assuming the proper turbo and wastegate is installed), IF you take extra care to make sure the manifold is as perfect as you can BEFORE you install it. I would have a machine shop enure the flatness of all surfaces and i would gasket match the turbo and wastegate holes.

OR you could just go with a tried and true, known good manifold from AGP. A bit more expensive, but you could just slap it on the car right out of the box.

SRT-4 Neon AGP Cast T3 Manifold

AGP Turbochargers, Inc. founded 2002, best pricing and service for all your Borg Warner, Precision, and Garrett Turbos. Including installation parts such as flanges, gaskets, tubing, and silicone.

agpturbo.com

 

Ok I've ordered the gt3582 turbo tubular manifold 38mm wastegate 850cc injectors and I'm going to get a tune before I put her back on the road. I'm getting 1600 on sunday I want to install stage 3 cams yes my head is ported and polished what else do I need for 3/4 cams

 

If i were installing cams, i would at the very least install upgraded springs/retainers. And you'll want adjustable cam gears, if you dont already have them.

 

Where did you get your turbo and "tubular manifold" at? eBay special? Hopefully not this junk: RED GT35 5PCS TURBO KIT TURBO+MANIFOLD+HEAT SHIELD 03-05 Dodge Neon SRT-4 | eBay You pay for what you get. Looks like a huge headache to me.

 

So I have an update of my parts the turbo is in the manifold is in the wastegate is in the the engine gasket Master set is in and I'm still waiting for more parts now I need to know what extras I'm going to need per mod like the 85 lb injectors what do I need to run those the 450lph fuel pump what am I going to need for that I will be installing a launch control 2 Step Goosebumps and what supporting mods AR absolutely essential for the stage 3 cams

 

Pic of the set up so far

 

If you have a buddy you trust that can weld, have them look over that manifold and see if the welds look good to them and see if they can reinforce the turbo flange to the manifold flange. After that, have a machine shop ensure both manifold flanges are perfectly flat so you can ensure you're getting a good seal on those gaskets.

 

So more or less get all the surfaces with flanges or gaskets machined? A friend of mine that just got out of welding school said something about a pocket in it (the manifold) and its got a couple imperfections internally I want to port and or sand down if possible

 

Thats going to be your best bet for longevity of it. You want to do what you can now, before you install it, to help prevent cracks and leaks.

 

Okay so I'm using voice to text again so my grammar may not be perfect this time around. A lot of parts have showed up and I'm not sure exactly what step to take next I need to know if I'm going to need a return line and a fuel rail, I have the stock lines, 450 walbro and 85 lb injectors. I also need to know what I need to get together for my exhaust my elbow doesn't bolt up to the new manifold I feel like this answer is a really obvious one but I still don't know a big problem then I ran into was the rack and pinion I have still yet to drop it I have one of the bolts cut off under the driver side and the passenger side I have the hole cut in the floorboard to get to the nut side of it inside the subframe and still have not yet been able to drop it anyway a couple of the Mods that are going in this time are gt35 turbo, gasket matching ports everywhere, ext wastegate, tubular manifold stage 3 cams, Brian Crower springs and retainers, stage 4 clutch, 450 walbro, 3bar map and tip, new gaskets throughout motor, not to mention engine bay is getting shaved and everything is getting cleaned and painted I'm going to slowly put a list of everything I have currently later and lastly I know I have to get a tune after all this and that is also why I'm doing the e85 conversion and getting everything remapped etc

 

Whats your question...?

Why are you dropping the subframe...?

sounds like you sort of have a plan already in mind.

 

To be completely honest I'm more or less winging everything right now subframe has to come out because I need to strip and paint it I also need to replace most of my bolts cuz they're rusted and most of them have snapped off, the control arm bushings are shot I'm assuming that was my issue causing my torque steer

 

And my main question in all of that was am I going to need a fuel return line for the e85 plus big turbo or should I be okay with the 450 fuel pump and 85 lb
injectors

 

For tuning purposes, you’ll want the return line. You won’t NEED it to get the car running on the new turbo setup.

 

Okay that was one of my big concerns considering that my budget is nearing an end and i really need to get a wideband set up been trying to get a cheap afr to work but nooo we gotta have our cars mapped weird af

 

You may want to leave the bigger injectors out until you can monitor the a/f and get tuned. I also wouldn’t run the turbo at any more than wastegate pressure until then also.

 

One of the reasons I'm installing new injectors is because my injector on cylinder 3 was cracked I've been attempting to convert the car to stage 3 well she's down with a big turbo no turbo toys etc I was going to get a boost box for better response time and wot shifting and I was assuming the professional tune with take care of most of the extra stuff

 

I had close to 2 Grand to throw in it while she was down this time and I've little access to everything I need my people freak out every time it gets off the road so I was doing all the bigger stuff now

 

Another reason I took it off the road was cuz my alignment was horrible I mean like horrible horrible I went through brand new set of front tires in roughly a week and I hardly brake traction