OK- so definitely got stiffed when I bought my car from the dealership... Things they said were done ... well.. were NOT done! :stab:.. I need a new clutch and new axles. I just replaced the rotors and brakes with slotted drilled rotors and ceramic brakes. I'm pushing a bit over 300 horsepower. The previous owner ran it hard - he was running NOS and had it turned way up. The teeth on the clutch are basically gone and the axles sound TERRIBLE. I'm not sure what clutch to buy - can I buy a stock clutch or should I stick with a SPEC stage 1 clutch? I want to dyno the car but I'm scared the motor will blow up!!!:wah?!: The motor and turbo seem fine... but never judge a book by its cover.... right?:crying:
vjilote
u bought a lemon :readclose
Get an ACT street clutch, itll hold power incase you decide you need more power later on. For axles just get some Advanced auto axles or OEMs. My AA's were about $65 a piece and theyre holding pretty well now. Had them for a couple of months.. Good luck
Get an ACT street clutch, itll hold power incase you decide you need more power later on. For axles just get some Advanced auto axles or OEMs. My AA's were about $65 a piece and theyre holding pretty well now. Had them for a couple of months.. Good luck
Bent doors/Engine problems are hard to diagnose on the internet. Clutch doesn't have "teeth" either.:jester: Maybe you mean flex plate?
I just replaced my clutch with a ACT 6 puck with HD plate and fly wheel. Bro it feels great. I noticed even on a stock set up the stock clutch didnt grab as well.
From what ive heard stay away from SPEC.
Contact nick at ACT, He will hook it up.
From what ive heard stay away from SPEC.
Contact nick at ACT, He will hook it up.
From the sounds of it i would start by putting in new clutch/flywheel combo. ACT street disc will hold the power you currently have and a bit more, if you do decide to increase HP.
As for your other issues, they are hard to diagnose without pics or vid.
As for your other issues, they are hard to diagnose without pics or vid.
you want to get the kit. you are giong from a modular clutch to a non modular clucth if you buy any of the after market clutches.
your best friend is google for best prices and/or deals.
your best friend is google for best prices and/or deals.
vjilote
What is your intention? You racing much? You do a lot of city driving?
A 6 puck is not particularly traffic friendly, but manageable. IMO I would go ACT street disk with the HD pressure plate.
I have also heard to stay away from spec, but honestly I think it's hit or miss with all the clutches.
What is your intention? You racing much? You do a lot of city driving?
A 6 puck is not particularly traffic friendly, but manageable. IMO I would go ACT street disk with the HD pressure plate.
I have also heard to stay away from spec, but honestly I think it's hit or miss with all the clutches.
Fine at driving the clutch. It's a little discombobulating to go from the nsrt 4 clutch to the tiburon's clutch since it is much newer and softer. It's broken in but definitely 65,000 miles less.
No one has still responded about should I dyno the car? Good to have the figures.. but don't know if my little bumblebee could handle it. Recommend against or for? Sorry if I sound like a broken record - you guys are just much more knowledgeable than myself (obviously).
No one has still responded about should I dyno the car? Good to have the figures.. but don't know if my little bumblebee could handle it. Recommend against or for? Sorry if I sound like a broken record - you guys are just much more knowledgeable than myself (obviously).
isnt a spec stage 1 rated to almost same specs as stock clutch? seems like a waste to me, im gonna go southbend stage 3, but act is also pretty beasty, havent heard of too many people goin with spec
dont buy a stock clutch, wait a couple more weeks spend $100 more and get act.
like im doin lol.
like im doin lol.
It's about 300 more for an ACT street disk over a stock clutch. As much work as it is to put a clutch in, I would spend a little more, so that I don't have to do it more than necessary. I know, I went with what I thought was a decent clutch for cheap (clutchmasters and PTP) and got burned twice. I finally buckled down and got a real clutch (ACT) and it's good.
Another thing. How do you know your axles are bad? Just wondering, because it would have been obvious on your test drive. There are no such thing as 90 dollar replacements as far as I've seen. Local parts stores always say they have them, but when you show up there, you will find regular neon axles. Axles are 150 at least if they are the right kind in my experience.
Another thing. How do you know your axles are bad? Just wondering, because it would have been obvious on your test drive. There are no such thing as 90 dollar replacements as far as I've seen. Local parts stores always say they have them, but when you show up there, you will find regular neon axles. Axles are 150 at least if they are the right kind in my experience.
As much work as it is to put a clutch in, I wouldn't put in a cheap one. Stock type clutches are at least 300 dollars or so. Me and my buddies have done it as fast as 4.5 hours start to finish, but that is with at least two people who know what they are doing working hard. If you had to pay the 8 hours of labor, I'm thinking a better than stock is the way to go so you don't have to do it again as soon.
Yea it is..I wonder why modern has it priced WAY OVER what they sell for all day on ebay.Another member on here put me on to these awhile ago,couldnt believe it until it arrived on my door step
Axles...I bought one at Autozone here in Tucson and it was the wrong one. Went to their main warehouse store, same thing. They were like, well, it's the only one we carry. Checker, same thing. NAPA didn't even have it, but they could order it. That's what I get for living in the wild west...
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