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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i purchased a zex dry kit from a member on this forum. i need to know where the regulator line of the brain box for the zex kit gets ran to and also where the line that says intake goes to. if anyone has this kit or has any idea where these to lines go can you please give me the info or send pics of them if possible. or i will be putting it up for sale on here.
 

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Only way I see to run a dry kit is to rig it up for a intercooler sprayer of some sort and run Co2 it is cheaper
 

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Kason23 said:
Only way I see to run a dry kit is to rig it up for a intercooler sprayer of some sort and run Co2 it is cheaper
1. Please don't use co2.
2. Injecting nitrous > spraying in on the intercooler.


No seriously. :lol:
 

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ha im just saying..since its a zex kit (which I really dislike). Now nitrous express thats where its at :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i have ran nitrous before just not a dry kit. so all i need is info on how to do it so if you don't know than there is no need for a reply on my post. all i need to know is where the regulator line goes and the on to the intake.
 

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d4racing said:
i have ran nitrous before just not a dry kit. so all i need is info on how to do it so if you don't know than there is no need for a reply on my post. all i need to know is where the regulator line goes and the on to the intake.
See, you missed the part about not taking offense.

Reread my first post.

You must run a wet kit. If you would read the stickies in the link I provided, you would see why.

Hayabusa said:
Wet you inject both fuel and nitrous. Infinitly adjustable a/f ratios

Dry you inject nitrous the MAF on the car adds the extra fuel(srt4's dont have one so it wont add fuel so you cant tune it. Get a wet kit.)

Direct port injects both nitrous and fuel into each cylinder. Recommended for much more than 75hp. This keeps the nitrous and fuel equal in all cylinders. With just a wet kit when you start spraying huge amounts of nitrous and fuel some cylinders will get more, some less. This can cause one cylinder to run lean while another runs rich. Your wideband or the dyno will show your a/f ratios are fine when they are not.

Its always a good idea to have a wideband or tune your system on a dyno. Once you have the a/f ratios right make a run. Immediatly cut the motor and check each plug. Its easy to do this on a dyno. Tune the system and just cut the engine after your last run. Make sure all cylinders are running the same. Compare all spark plugs to each other. If you dont know how to read plugs learn how, and get help in the meantime. Its a good idea to check your plugs after each run or at very least every few runs. Change your plugs often, and make sure to use a colder plug than stock. If they come out sparkling white after driving awhile you may want to go to a colder plug. Sparkling white means it is running really hot. The proper plug should be uniformly tan. NOT bright white. The heat range of the plug is what keeps the plug clean, along with keeping your engine from going bye bye to soon.
Hayabusa said:
2. You MUST use a wet kit, or a direct port system with the SRT4. The SRT4 does not have a mass airflow system so it can not see the extra air coming into the engine so will not adjust the air/fuel ratio accordingly.

3. You will adjust the air/fuel ratios by changing the fuel jet. This is why you have a wet kit. A wet kit injects both nitrous and fuel into the engine. It is best to start with a jet two sizes larger than recommended and work your way down from there. You do not need larger injectors, the FPR mod, or any other mod to run nitrous or adjust the air/fuel ratio.
So by reading this, I am not going to offer you advice on how to hook up a dry kit.

What you can do is private message Hayabusa and see what he has to offer.

Hope I helped.
 

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175srt05 said:
d4racing said:
i have ran nitrous before just not a dry kit. so all i need is info on how to do it so if you don't know than there is no need for a reply on my post. all i need to know is where the regulator line goes and the on to the intake.
See, you missed the part about not taking offense.

Reread my first post.

You must run a wet kit. If you would read the stickies in the link I provided, you would see why.

Hayabusa said:
Wet you inject both fuel and nitrous. Infinitly adjustable a/f ratios

Dry you inject nitrous the MAF on the car adds the extra fuel(srt4's dont have one so it wont add fuel so you cant tune it. Get a wet kit.)

Direct port injects both nitrous and fuel into each cylinder. Recommended for much more than 75hp. This keeps the nitrous and fuel equal in all cylinders. With just a wet kit when you start spraying huge amounts of nitrous and fuel some cylinders will get more, some less. This can cause one cylinder to run lean while another runs rich. Your wideband or the dyno will show your a/f ratios are fine when they are not.

Its always a good idea to have a wideband or tune your system on a dyno. Once you have the a/f ratios right make a run. Immediatly cut the motor and check each plug. Its easy to do this on a dyno. Tune the system and just cut the engine after your last run. Make sure all cylinders are running the same. Compare all spark plugs to each other. If you dont know how to read plugs learn how, and get help in the meantime. Its a good idea to check your plugs after each run or at very least every few runs. Change your plugs often, and make sure to use a colder plug than stock. If they come out sparkling white after driving awhile you may want to go to a colder plug. Sparkling white means it is running really hot. The proper plug should be uniformly tan. NOT bright white. The heat range of the plug is what keeps the plug clean, along with keeping your engine from going bye bye to soon.
Hayabusa said:
2. You MUST use a wet kit, or a direct port system with the SRT4. The SRT4 does not have a mass airflow system so it can not see the extra air coming into the engine so will not adjust the air/fuel ratio accordingly.

3. You will adjust the air/fuel ratios by changing the fuel jet. This is why you have a wet kit. A wet kit injects both nitrous and fuel into the engine. It is best to start with a jet two sizes larger than recommended and work your way down from there. You do not need larger injectors, the FPR mod, or any other mod to run nitrous or adjust the air/fuel ratio.
So by reading this, I am not going to offer you advice on how to hook up a dry kit.

What you can do is private message Hayabusa and see what he has to offer.

Hope I helped.

:drunk:


:michelinm
 

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wet kit wet kit wet kit wet kit wet kit.

You go dry you will die!!!

No really, You need to sell it to someone who ones a civic then get yourself a wet kit. As far as NX being better. To each his own. I don't like the crappy mechanical switches that NX uses. Also not to mentnion that NX is way over priced!!! Plenty of kits that are high quality for cheaper.
 
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