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Alright, I am getting ready to purchase a new Spec Stage3I clutch. Now the question is, do I purchase DSS axles with it? From what my daddy (cali) has told me, it made me wonder. Since I have coilovers, solid top and bottom mounts, my stock axles have held up over 60+ drag passes, about 20 of them on slicks. I say thats pretty good. But I was looking at going a little farther, and getting a tranny mount, and some solid urathane bushings for the control arms and ect. From what I understand, wheelhop is the killer of axles. Do you think this might work, or do I order the axles? Please discuss.
 

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If you have the money, it's the best thing you can do if you are worry about breaking down at the track. Those axles can take 550hp.

They sell for about $800.00

Percy
 

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Just because the DSS axles are rated at 500 hp, doesn't mean they won't break at a lesser hp.

I just broke a cv joint on a DSS axle (420 hp, only 2 runs down the track), and Mike from Psi-Fi broke something on a DSS axle(in the burnout box, I think he was under 500 hp).

They did fix it under warrentee though. It still was a pita to have to remove it and install a stock axle till I get it back.

Just hought I'd let you know that before you spend $800...........
 

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So are you saying it's not worth getting the DSS axles? Are they the only stronger ones available for our cars?
 

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I think what Scott was saying, the 500hp rating does not take into account a bonehead driver that can break them at a much lower hp level. In other words, they are not 'install and forget' items and are subjected to the same extreme loads during a wheelhop or sudden traction situation.

Mike told me about his broken axle, the cause was something I never even considered. It broke when he was in the burnout box, not from the burnout, but from *how quickly* he took his foot off the gas when he was done with his burnout. As the slicks slowed down, they grabbed, and with no engine behind them, an axle snapped.

As for why Scott's broke, it was probably the install.... :lol:

Dale
 

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Dale Seeley said:
As for why Scott's broke, it was probably the install.... :lol:

Dale
I don't care who you are.....that's funny there.....

Mine was a bit of a wierd problem. At the track and the drive home, I noticed no problems. The next day I took off from Pittsburgh (heading back to ATL) and about 1 hr into the trip, the drivers side axle started making the typical clicking sound, and it kept getting worse. I ended up driving the car back to Pittsburgh, flying home, then flying up 2 weeks later to reinstall a stock axle and drive the car home.

DSS did repair the axle under the 1 year warrentee, and I should be getting back this week.
 

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i can tell you this i have broken so many dss axles stage 3's on my 1 gen neon. what brake axles is not what you think there is alot to it. one thing that can brake axles a lower car. ya thats right when people lower there car for looks thay dont think of axles. if the axles r not straight or level you will brake them. also dr's will brake axles why because the side walls and tire are hard thay do not asorb shock well. slick r going to asorb shock becauce thay r softer and can exspand. oooo ya don't forget wheel hop that will also break axles.. this is some fyi.. if you have any other problems i can help you out..

i am one of most axle snappen king just ask frank from DSS.. he knows me will. good luck
 

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My stand on this is, wheel hop is the killer.
On my car I personally run poly LCA bushings( thanks to doc....he was actually useful for something), and stage II coils. I have some MM insters for show, but at present, I cannot remember the last time I had wheel hop....I dont have 500WHP though.

Riven, has IPP coils which are stiffer, and on their OWN, pretty much eliminated most of MY wheel hop. For the price of bushings, compared to axles, why NOT give it atry.
As Dale said, operator is the 2nd leading cause fo breakage.
 

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if you guys are looking for the mystery equation to the axle problems...its all about the Front Lower Control Arm. The soft factory bushings allow too much play and when you add gobs of power the bushings will not only allow hop but they will give enough play to allow the arms to "bend" backwards. So the combination of the axles not being levl due to hop but also because they are also being forced to angle backwards (towards passenger compartment) in conjuction with the hop
 

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NeonDan said:
if you guys are looking for the mystery equation to the axle problems...its all about the Front Lower Control Arm. The soft factory bushings allow too much play and when you add gobs of power the bushings will not only allow hop but they will give enough play to allow the arms to "bend" backwards. So the combination of the axles not being levl due to hop but also because they are also being forced to angle backwards (towards passenger compartment) in conjuction with the hop
i agree 100%. but lower the car will do the same thing unless you can adjust the motor like perload it. arms on r cars suck bushings will help like you said.
 

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I repectfully disagree with what some of you are saying....

I only have the car lowered 1 inch in front (stage 3 coilovers). When I drive on the street, I don't hammer the car to avoid wheel hop. Actually I'm making 400-420 hp (for about 6 months), still on my stock clutch, and it still hooks good, that should tell you how I drive it.

The axles were only on the car for a month of street driving. When I went to the track, I put slicks on the car. When I launched, there was 0 wheel hop....... I only ran down the track twice.

So in my case wheel hop didn't do it, and I don't think the car is lowered enough to case the cv joint to go bad. Your guess is as good as mine. Maybe I'm a little disapointed...........I expected better performance for $800.

I tend to get disappointed when dependability, fit/finsh and design don't seem to match the price.............maybe I should lower my standards............
 

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Scott, only slammed cars will have this issue. That being said, true road or drag racers, arent retarde liek the ricers who slam their cars.
 

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i'd go w/ the doc & do the control bushings. after exhaust, my next project. since i b*tch the car, i'm not worried about using only motor mounts.

and cali might want to take a paternity test.
 
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