[tbagg1ns]

Swapped out S3R PCM for stock PCM.
Sure is a lot easier when bracket installed loosely firstt.
And then the PCM gently sandwiched loosely between.

This the umpteenth time I've done this since 2008.
I live and learn...hopefully...

Waiting for the expected P0440 EVAP code ...

I was just fucking around with that when I had my stage 3 PCM flashed. Couldn't figure any other way to get the stock PCM out other than just unbolting everything and sliding the 2 pieces out separately.

Good luck with the EVAP

 

[toasteroven]

First drive of the season on the weekend. Fresh oil, plugs. Not a hiccup along the way. Did the full loop of the lake to get rid of the 5 month old gas, fresh tank on the way home.

Going from a mid-size SUV during winter back to the '4 is like getting off the stool I've been sitting on the past 5 months and lying on the floor. What a height difference.

 

[Sota]

Not the SRT, but the AC systems are similar/identical...

Greetings.
Last year I had to replace the cam seals due to a MASSIVE leak they were allowing, due to a prior shop installing no-name seals (during a timing belt/water pump scheduled replacement) that failed after only 20k miles.
That job was done successfully, by me, but now after the AC system was recharged (pulled down so I could remove the lines to do the aformentioned seals more easily) the AC system won't turn on.
I own an Autel MaxiSys 906Pro, and I can go in and manually engage the compressor (I don't run it for long, for fear of causing an overpressure condition.)
I've tested the fans, compressor, refrigerant pressure (using gauges), control states, command requests, anything I can think of and can test/control with the tool.
When I do turn the compressor on, the high pressure line gets cold, the cabin gets chilled air, but I can't activate the system from the controls.

You can see that, the Pressure Voltage is stuck at 5v, and the Pressure value is stuck at 580 psi, but I can't for the life of me find that sensor on the car, or in the OEM service & repair manual, which I have a copy For the snapshot above, the tool is commanding the compressor on, the blower is on high, and the AC button is pressed (light is on.) Again I've tested comms on the car and the CGM is seeing the button being pressed, but it won't command the compressor to turn on, due to I suspect the pressure reading being sky high. The only item of question on this car, is the high pressure switch on the compressor itself looks a little suspect, in that it has a chip out of the green part of the plastic body of it. I thought that was only a switch though, since it's a 2-wire connection. Every other chrylser I own has a 3-wire sensor connected to the high side line coming out of the compressor, except for this PT cruiser.

If anyone has any thoughts on this I'd appreciate it.

 

[adecanmin]

How was the air-conditioning system recharged? Did you pull a vacuum? How did you determine how much refrigerant the system needed? Maybe an overcharge condition? What were the low side, high side readings from the manifold gauges? I'm assuming the system was working perfectly before the discharge.

 

[mike809dr]

New valve cover going in soon, the second pic is the goal I want to achieve looks wise minus the purple lol.

 

[Sota]

How was the air-conditioning system recharged? Did you pull a vacuum? How did you determine how much refrigerant the system needed? Maybe an overcharge condition? What were the low side, high side readings from the manifold gauges? I'm assuming the system was working perfectly before the discharge.

The system was professionally discharged and recharged, and then I independently verified it with my own set of gauges after they were unable to get the compressor to turn on.

And yes, the system work perfectly fine before it was worked on.

 

[adecanmin]

That's a tough one. Every time you want to try a part you have to discharge the system. Did you check the pressure with the system off? It should equalize between high and low sides. Do you think you may have a blockage somewhere?

 

[Sota]

I would assume if there was a blockage, it wouldn't make cold at all.
Using the tool I can turn the compressor on. the one line gets frosty, and the inside gets frozen nuts cold air blowing into it, so the system is working.
it just won't command it on through the AC button on the dash.
the only thing I can think of is that unlocated sensor. with it reading 5v it's maxed out the pressure, and that would keep the gateway from commanding it to turn on.

 

[enginjoe]

It's been a while but there are two pressure sensors. One up next to the firewall on the bottom of the valve block and one on the back of the compressor.

 

[AlmightyFork]

Duralast axle and OEM axle seal installed. Tried to do the whole thing with a rubber mallet, but ended up renting a tie rod fork and a bearing/seal driver. I did not disconnect the ball joint like the FSM recommends (tie rod is easier). Learned the hard way though that things won't line up with only 1 corner of the car lifted. Took me forever to realize why I was struggling so much to reconnect the coilover to the knuckle.

Disconnected the old ambient temp sensor in the fender and hooked it up to a fresh one in the cold air intake. The previous owner had a short ram intake and had tied up the sensor there.

Drove around for half an hour. No signs of any leaks from what I can tell, but I'm gonna keep observing. A power steering pressure switch CEL showed up though while I was out. Power steering worked fine, so I'm hoping it's just a sensor or a fluke. I'll double check my levels when I change the oil out here soon. I cleared the CEL and I'll see if it reoccurs.

Gonna keep the OEM axle for rebuild one day. I probably didn't need to replace it (no spline damage that I can see), but did so out of an abundance of caution.

I have a couple counts of knock I'd like to get rid of. Gonna cheap out and add some octane booster to see if that resolves it, otherwise I'll start data logging to see if I can't get to the root of the issue.

Lastly, got some new plugs to freshen things up. I'd like to try to increase my gap a tiny bit.

 

[Sota]

It's been a while but there are two pressure sensors. One up next to the firewall on the bottom of the valve block and one on the back of the compressor.

yea. those are both switches though, 2-wire. unless mother mopar did some asshattery at some point and turned the 2-wire hi pressure switch into a sensor, using the body as ground.

 

[toasteroven]

Duralast axle and OEM axle seal installed. Tried to do the whole thing with a rubber mallet, but ended up renting a tie rod fork and a bearing/seal driver. I did not disconnect the ball joint like the FSM recommends (tie rod is easier). Learned the hard way though that things won't line up with only 1 corner of the car lifted. Took me forever to realize why I was struggling so much to reconnect the coilover to the knuckle.

Disconnected the old ambient temp sensor in the fender and hooked it up to a fresh one in the cold air intake. The previous owner had a short ram intake and had tied up the sensor there.

Drove around for half an hour. No signs of any leaks from what I can tell, but I'm gonna keep observing. A power steering pressure switch CEL showed up though while I was out. Power steering worked fine, so I'm hoping it's just a sensor or a fluke. I'll double check my levels when I change the oil out here soon. I cleared the CEL and I'll see if it reoccurs.

Gonna keep the OEM axle for rebuild one day. I probably didn't need to replace it (no spline damage that I can see), but did so out of an abundance of caution.

I have a couple counts of knock I'd like to get rid of. Gonna cheap out and add some octane booster to see if that resolves it, otherwise I'll start data logging to see if I can't get to the root of the issue.

Lastly, got some new plugs to freshen things up. I'd like to try to increase my gap a tiny bit.

My pressure switch acted up for no reason (other than age) and had to be replaced. It also decided to do so right after unrelated maintenance on the car, making me question my ability to not fuck everything up I touch.

 

[AlmightyFork]

My pressure switch acted up for no reason (other than age) and had to be replaced. It also decided to do so right after unrelated maintenance on the car, making me question my ability to not fuck everything up I touch.

Your story sounds much like mine. Makes me feel better.

 

[enginjoe]

The pressure sensors/switches are common points of failure.

 

[toasteroven]

The pressure sensors/switches are common points of failure.

Yeah, but do they have to fail right after you wrench on something else?

Wait, that's a stupid question. Because of course they do.

 

[enginjoe]

The one on the back of my compressor failed right after we did all new AC system parts. Not a fun replacement down in there.

 

[snobrdrdan2]

I figured I'd just try and ask here.....

So I have a TON of parts to refresh my car here (timing belt, water pump, pretty much all the seals & sensors, the cooling system, axles, all the suspension components, all the brake components, will probably add a downpipe too, and will do the clutch/fork/TOB too).

So, all that mentioned/said, I have a few floor jacks.....but will I need a cherry picker for the engine (to lift/support/shift it over)? Does it make it easier?
Should I get, or use, a engine support bar too?
Maybe a transmission jack?

Just trying to figure out the proper tools.

 

[enginjoe]

I just use a tranny jack and floor jacks to do everything unless I'm removing the motor. The tranny jack has been one of my most useful tools and I got it at harbor freight for a little over a 100 bucks. I looked it up and I guess I haven't been watching prices...

800 lb. Low Lift Transmission Jack

Amazing deals on this 800Lb Low Lift Transmission Jack at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

 

[AlmightyFork]

Bare minimum for this would be a trans jack and an extra jack to support the engine.

 

[Simon.Starkie]

SMOG Check.
Stock PCM.

ODOMETER 129,035

FAILED
NOT READY OBDII
CATALYST
OXYGEN SENSOR
EVAPORATIVE SYSTEM