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At the prices I've seen S3s go for, it's cheaper just to get a big turbo kit from AGP.
Keep saving and you'll get there. So, there is the decision between just slapping the big turbo on with fuel system mods (I can't remember which injectors you got with the E85 tune, but you will need a bottleneck fix/returnline/FPR) and a tune and then wait and see how long that almost 200k miles long block will go, or start a short block build, then buy the other stuff and go crazy all at once.
1000cc injectors. I figure if my compression is good, I could get away with just dropping the kit on the original block for a while. 160k original miles but I'm only adding maybe 2k miles a year, at this point.

If I start a short block build it will have to wait until I can rent space in your new garage mahal.
 

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Yep it got delivered last Friday.
Complete kit, including the stage 3 wastegate not the agp one, & an N2MB Toybox.
2500usd
damn i'm surprised it was that cheap.
 

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The s3 kits are out there, but very rare and i agree its the best setup for these cars.

If we can't find one he can do a small fast spooling big turbo like a gt3071r and get that quick spool with an easy 400whp
GTX3071R is definitely on my radar. I'm very curious to see if I could get the DST to read a Garrett turbo speed sensor.
 

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It is but I think it's a hall sensor. I'm not sure the scaling will work or how to interpret values within the DST. I'd need it to count pulses I think. I don't want another guage. I really just want the data.
In that case, it won't work directly as Diablo's only accept linear analog signals.
 

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Yeah, Holley EAS claims to be able to read any 5V, but after using it it's hard for me to understand if I could get it to work. I'll definitely have to learn some more before I can be sure. Maybe I can translate a hall signal with a raspberry pi or something and output my own linear scale. Maybe a product like this exists.

Here's some text from Garrett on it.
Sensor Signal: the speed sensor will output a square-wave signal at 1/8 the input
frequency(originally intended for 8-blade wheel). The input frequency is simply one pulse
per blade, as the blades pass by the sensor.
 

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Yeah, Holley EAS claims to be able to read any 5V, but after using it it's hard for me to understand if I could get it to work. I'll definitely have to learn some more before I can be sure. Maybe I can translate a hall signal with a raspberry pi or something and output my own linear scale. Maybe a product like this exists.

Here's some text from Garrett on it.
at that point wouldn't it just be easier to get a guage that outputs an analog signal already?
Eventually I'll get around to replacing all my ProSport gauges (which have all failed in one way or another) and will only get guages that can output an analog signal for their readings, to feed the DSP I have.

which also reminds me: my DSP won't unlock. wondering if I swapped ECUs at some point and forgot to unlock it before i did. it's supposed to be "married" to my S0, and I might have my S3 installed right now. The tune needs work/replaced.
 

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at that point wouldn't it just be easier to get a guage that outputs an analog signal already?
Eventually I'll get around to replacing all my ProSport gauges (which have all failed in one way or another) and will only get guages that can output an analog signal for their readings, to feed the DSP I have.

which also reminds me: my DSP won't unlock. wondering if I swapped ECUs at some point and forgot to unlock it before i did. it's supposed to be "married" to my S0, and I might have my S3 installed right now. The tune needs work/replaced.
I'm happy with Prosport and they do have 5v output. I'm not wanting to hide a guage in the dash. I see there is such a thing as a frequency to voltage converter. 10 bucks for the cheap ones on Amazon. I'm also a software engineer that likes pet projects. One day I'm gonna use an aem fic as an ignition retarding failsafe.

Ordered driver side cv axle from autozone. Excited to fix it up.
 

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I'm happy with Prosport and they do have 5v output. I'm not wanting to hide a guage in the dash. I see there is such a thing as a frequency to voltage converter. 10 bucks for the cheap ones on Amazon. I'm also a software engineer that likes pet projects. One day I'm gonna use an aem fic as an ignition retarding failsafe.

Ordered driver side cv axle from autozone. Excited to fix it up.
Yeah you should be able to get something to condition the signal appropriately, you could probably even make an arduino work. Does the Garrett documentation tell you anything about the pulse signal coming off the sensor, like, is it 1 pulse per rotation, at 5V? I'm an engineering technologist, so this sort of this IS my bag, baby.
 

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Seems pretty straight forward, although easier said than done 😂 Just totalize the pulses with an arduino, convert it to Hz, and run it through the equation to get RPM.
 

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Seems pretty straight forward, although easier said than done 😂 Just totalize the pulses with an arduino, convert it to Hz, and run it through the equation to get RPM.
As long as the chip would read fast enough, I could probably use time between pulses to get a better resolution. I figure something like a max of 100,000 rpm X 8 blade pulses / 60 seconds = 13,333 pulses a second. Most of the chips I've seen only go to 10,000 hz though. I could use a buffered queue of sorts to look at the last half second in order to smooth this data, but that would probably be expensive (performance wise). Ardunio also kind of leaves something to be desired in terms of packaging. Those block board circuits are huge and ugly. I'm gonna run out of room for my add-a-fuses. Maybe I'll add a second fuse box to the trunk.
 

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As long as the chip would read fast enough, I could probably use time between pulses to get a better resolution. I figure something like a max of 100,000 rpm X 8 blade pulses / 60 seconds = 13,333 pulses a second. Most of the chips I've seen only go to 10,000 hz though. I could use a buffered queue of sorts to look at the last half second in order to smooth this data, but that would probably be expensive (performance wise). Ardunio also kind of leaves something to be desired in terms of packaging. Those block board circuits are huge and ugly. I'm gonna run out of room for my add-a-fuses. Maybe I'll add a second fuse box to the trunk.
With hardware interrupts and timers you should theoretically be able to read up to 8Mhz on an adrunio input pin with the 16Mhz cpu. The built in software libraries are dogshit slow in comparison to running on the bare metal. Should be plenty for you to work with, but I agree about their robustness....
 

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Got a temporary permit for Saturday and Sunday to go cruising. Have a dyno booked on the 31st so I want to give it a once over since it's been sitting for almost 4 months.
 
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