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what pressure are you running the slicks at? there's no way you should snap an axle with that low of numbers, unless you're clutch dumping like a retard.
 

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13psi cold. 14psi hot. That gets me the best balance of traction and good ET. As long as I get a good burnout, that is.

Is there a good way to clutch dump? I know several have said they run more power on stock axles, but they never say how. I'm running in competition, so I can't get away with 1 second RTs.
 

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softer, or make sure there's no slack in the drivetrain. it's one of the advantages of autos, as they can sit there pushing through the axles without moving. do you hold the hand brake while staging? someone had come up with a line lock that releases the rear wheels when the clutch is disengaged.
 
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Yeah, it'd be great for drag racing if this car came with an auto.

But it doesn't sound like you have any more experience than I do. A line lock does sound intriguing, though.

Off to research.
 

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mostly just the one time I made 39 runs in a day down at atco, and remember back in that day people were doing a lot of discussion about how to not break axles. wheel hop and shock loading were/are the two major killers of axles. you can poor man's line lock the rear wheels with the parking brake. someone even figured out you can drill a small hole in the handle and button, so you can lock out the lock button. bump it in to the beams with the brake held up, drag the clutch just a touch to get the slack out of the driveline, drop the handle as you launch.
 

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And there in lies one of my many problems I've forced myself to deal with. Using the e-brake. Getting it to reliably hold the car still at the line, knowing full well it doesn't consistently hold the car in place during the burn out.

Or I can continue to retard it and resign myself to replacing an axle every year or so. What's $300 among friends?
 

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And there in lies one of my many problems I've forced myself to deal with. Using the e-brake. Getting it to reliably hold the car still at the line, knowing full well it doesn't consistently hold the car in place during the burn out.

Or I can continue to retard it and resign myself to replacing an axle every year or so. What's $300 among friends?
If you accept axle's breaking, then just go buy the Autozone Duralast ones. Lifetime warranty.
 

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Well the car is now safely ensconced in Joe's trailer at his house.

Since I have no chance of even making 2nd place, I'll have next race event to practice under pressure. Maybe a couple TnTs before next season starts.

Question: When loading the drive train at launch. Full 2-step, or just enough gas to keep from stalling?
 

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Put the new axle in Saturday. We also eye balled in some more front camber. I have no idea how much negative camber there is (not much), but the passenger side looks much better. I really need to find a reliable suspension specialist. Or buy Joe the alignment tools for Christmas.
 

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Well, something is leaking in the turbo oil line area, it started small couple months ago, I don't drive it much these days so it's steadily gotten worse each time. I noticed it leaves a bit of oil right on the top of what I believe is the oil supply line (if i remember right) that runs into the top of the turbo? Too preoccupied to look it up right now, but I'm about sure I remember that correctly. I wonder if that has come loose or perhaps needs new seals of some sort? Maybe a good time to finally put my stage III in? lol
 

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Well, something is leaking in the turbo oil line area, it started small couple months ago, I don't drive it much these days so it's steadily gotten worse each time. I noticed it leaves a bit of oil right on the top of what I believe is the oil supply line (if i remember right) that runs into the top of the turbo? Too preoccupied to look it up right now, but I'm about sure I remember that correctly. I wonder if that has come loose or perhaps needs new seals of some sort? Maybe a good time to finally put my stage III in? lol
New crush washers?
 

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I changed the tarp that was covering the jacket that has the shipping mats over the cover that's on the car. :D
 
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Well, something is leaking in the turbo oil line area, it started small couple months ago, I don't drive it much these days so it's steadily gotten worse each time. I noticed it leaves a bit of oil right on the top of what I believe is the oil supply line (if i remember right) that runs into the top of the turbo? Too preoccupied to look it up right now, but I'm about sure I remember that correctly. I wonder if that has come loose or perhaps needs new seals of some sort? Maybe a good time to finally put my stage III in? lol
... is it the banjo fitting for the oil line that goes into the turbo?

Replace those crush washers ASAP. I know of at least 3 cars on here that burned to the ground due to those crush washers being reused. They're single-use, toss away copper things.
 

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Pulled the plates off the PT, Red, and the SRT8. Foot of snow. They'll see the road again in spring.

Silver SRT-4 is the "emergency winter backup vehicle", so it gets to stay warm in the garage with a set of barely-used (500kms from last year) winters on it.

Picked up a 2009 Journey AWD as a winter car back in September. Check engine light lit up on the way home. Spent a month chasing down problem after problem (my favorite is the coolant fitting that burst right as I brought it back for the first check engine light the next day, resulting in a completely new rad, AC condenser, pump and coolant at the dealer's expense) before I threw up my hands and got the dealer to take it back because despite throwing parts at it, it was just never happy. It was a single-owner, 150k km example in near-mint condition. But what's the point of having a mint exterior / interior if it's mechanically flawed to the bone?

2006-2011 was a dark time for Dodge. Battery in the fucking fender-well? What in the actual fuck. I tried man, I really tried to stay in-brand, but with used vehicle supply at all time lows, and "I prefer to have something AWD without a CVT" makes it a short list. I had to call it.

Now have a 2012 Santa Fe AWD V6 for a winter vehicle with new X-Ice's on it. Pretty unstoppable in the snow so far. Just enough old-school tech to not worry me about $$$ fixing computer or "module" problems. Nearly everything else I think I can handle myself.

New vehicles are a fucking rip-off.
 

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Pulled the plates off the PT, Red, and the SRT8. Foot of snow. They'll see the road again in spring.

Silver SRT-4 is the "emergency winter backup vehicle", so it gets to stay warm in the garage with a set of barely-used (500kms from last year) winters on it.

Picked up a 2009 Journey AWD as a winter car back in September. Check engine light lit up on the way home. Spent a month chasing down problem after problem (my favorite is the coolant fitting that burst right as I brought it back for the first check engine light the next day, resulting in a completely new rad, AC condenser, pump and coolant at the dealer's expense) before I threw up my hands and got the dealer to take it back because despite throwing parts at it, it was just never happy. It was a single-owner, 150k km example in near-mint condition. But what's the point of having a mint exterior / interior if it's mechanically flawed to the bone?

2006-2011 was a dark time for Dodge. Battery in the fucking fender-well? What in the actual fuck. I tried man, I really tried to stay in-brand, but with used vehicle supply at all time lows, and "I prefer to have something AWD without a CVT" makes it a short list. I had to call it.

Now have a 2012 Santa Fe AWD V6 for a winter vehicle with new X-Ice's on it. Pretty unstoppable in the snow so far. Just enough old-school tech to not worry me about $$$ fixing computer or "module" problems. Nearly everything else I think I can handle myself.

New vehicles are a fucking rip-off.
I have a 2017 Dodge Journey w/ 60k miles. I fucking hate that thing. I truly thought it was going to be my awesome Dad-mobile. Gonna trade it in at my first good opportunity. I'll take a high mileage 2010 Chrysler Town and Country over this piece.
 

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... is it the banjo fitting for the oil line that goes into the turbo?

Replace those crush washers ASAP. I know of at least 3 cars on here that burned to the ground due to those crush washers being reused. They're single-use, toss away copper things.
I never removed it but I'm assuming that it's what's causing the issues. I currently have a large towel and gallon of water in the car to go with my large fire extinguisher. I haven't been driving it much at all and don't see a reason to now that the weather is getting bad again.

You can usually stop an engine fire by laying the towel out in front of the car and quickly soaking the towel with most of the water, then laying the towel over the burning portion of the engine, then use the rest of the water through the towel, and use the fire extinguisher as a last resort.

That being said, I don't want to be the one to test this theory again on my car LOL.
 

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I rent many cars in my travels and accompany many others who rent Dodge journey, jeep patriot, jeep compass, etc are all the worst cars right behind Nissan altimas and sentras. I have status so I can refuse any car that is trash nowadays, but I've seen my share.
 
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