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Went to the local yard, got a "meh" set of window belt moldings (still better than whats on the car), a cowl to replace the melted one on the car, and a lower air dam. Got home, put in my reconditioned headlights, and swapped out the cowl. Will try to get the belt molding to look good before I swap those out.

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unpacked. put 2 gallons of gas in it. let it idle while I cleaned up and changed tires.
gonna fill it with gas tomorrow, then schedule an alignment.
 

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)$#()%* battery.
I hate how this car absolutely destroys batteries.
 

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I installed a kenetic kreations shift light... and then 2 days later had to remove it because something went wrong and it cause my car to shut off on my way to work. Car would not fire back up until i unplugged the shift light. it then fired right up and has run fine since....

i need to contact jacob about this....
 

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)$#()%* battery.
I hate how this car absolutely destroys batteries.
Which brand of battery are you using?
I've had better luck with the genuine MOPAR batteries and they don't cost much more.
The two cheaper Duralast batteries from Autozone I tried were both leaky and quit after 2 years.
 

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I've been using Duralast for awhile. They seem to hold up great, for me. And my car is parked outside.
 

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I've used every brand you can think of, from cheap no-name to expensive odyssey sealed batteries (which aren't so sealed, and when it failed leaked all over the place causing all kinds of damage.)
 
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put in a Napa Legend 540CCA (made by East Penn). the one I pulled out had a 5/16 purchase date.
 

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put in a Napa Legend 540CCA (made by East Penn). the one I pulled out had a 5/16 purchase date.
Is that when you purchased it?
If so, 5 years isn't too terrible.
A little more would have been nice.
Perhaps NJ has cold winters which, together with infrequent use, may be hard on batteries?
 

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I frequently use a tender on it, and I pull the battery when the car goes to sleep for the season, and keep it in my garage.
 

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so before I toss my NOS set of axles in, does anyone sell rebuild kits for ours, and are they worth it?
if not, what's the current preferred vendor for axles?
passenger inner boot has tossed all its grease, and driver's side is making some kind of squeaky noise as well.
 

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Which apparently I'm putting the axles in tonight. She's got a pretty decent clunking vibration type noise coming from the passenger side, but I'm not feeling it through the steering wheel. Seems to go away when you're under load, but guess worse when you're under Coast
 

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If you're not abusing your car (like I do) stock should be fine.
 

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well, it has 45k miles on it, and a bunch of track days. :D

new OEM ones are installed now. getting a case of brake cleaner to go to town on getting the mess the one made cleaned up.

what is the state of replacement axles now? as in, who is being recommended. MP is pimping Gator Racing, I'll never buy DSS, and i'm pretty sure everything else is junk.

thinking contacting a local driveshaft shop and see if they can rebuild them, and for how much. the tripod bearing seem fine to me, but what do I know.
 

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I lot of people swear by autozone (or maybe it is some other auto parts store) axles because they hold up decently and have a lifetime warranty.
 

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I've always bought my axles from Carquest (now same as Advance Auto). They are around $70 for new and I've never had one break.
 

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I'm running Gators right now. I'll never buy DSS again.
 

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gonna put the maxxfab exhaust up for sale, soon as i get the O2 housing out.
 

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We passed the SMOG test.

But I am a little concerned about the several P0440 DTC's.
I cleared first P0440 with the Aeroforce.
But subsequent P0440's would not clear until battery disconnected and brake pedal pressed a few times.
And then no more reoccurrences.

I think I'll drive it for a couple of weeks as-is before upgrading to the S3R bits.
Hoping the P0440's are just the glitch I'd always thought it was when reverting to S0.
Get a smoker and find the leak, could be the solenoid too.

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