[Broskiballa]

Been chasing coolant bleed issue for a couple of days, where my 04 with 174,xxx (155,155,151,155) comp test yieldings, seems to be giving me a hard time with bleeding. Its like my overflow isnt properly toping off the engine and naturally bleeding.

2k miles ago I replaced timing belt, water pump, every bearing and belt + alt, while I was there, all engine mounts with some torquey solutions, full complete silicone coolant hose installed, turbo doesnt leak or smoke, not loosing oil at all. Runs actually phenomenal!

I replaced the following items: OEM overflow, Motorad thermostat 195*, and OEM mopar radiator cap just a few days ago. Bleed all the air out with heater on. (Or so I thought) checked it this morning after putting on 50-100miles of fun last night, and I was missing a little coolant from under my cap. But my overflow is literally at full >.> before installing thermostat which I suspect is working just fine with no leaks in the entire engine bay, perhaps the fill tubes go bad and dont all proper fluid flow from overflow to coolant system?

 

[enginjoe]

Here's how I bleed mine. I fill it all the way, get the engine up to operating temp drive around the block. Let it completely cool. Add fluid until full. Drive like normal to work and back. Next morning add coolant before driving. done.

 

[Broskiballa]

Word! I actually do the same. I use the incline of my garage to position the air towards the front of the vehicle, as well. Right as I park it I turn heat all the way on too so that the heater core is fully bled as well. I believe this is my third top this morning, but it was just a tiny bit after several few more long drives, including highway speeds. I performed a long drive again today, so going to check it later on tonight as it cools down and reliefs pressure naturally.

I assume I shouldn't have to do this forever, though. I understand these cooling systems hold quite a bit of coolant to say the least. Its just strange that my overflow isn't getting lower..

 

[JeremyJ]

I dropped the rear of the car by an additional inch this past weekend. The rake was a little extreme, so this leveled it out some. The BCs were previously maxed out in the rear, so this helped. The car now sits level from side to side, too. Gotta love the adjustability of coilovers.

 

[bzzt]

Replaced the lower control arm bushings on both sides with Energy brand. Couldn't have done it without my 12 ton press and ball joint installer! Front end feels tight now. What a difference.
Getting everything out was easy. Putting the control arms back in required removing the calipers and unbolting the steering knuckle to get everything out of the way. And all the hammering to get the arms into the tight spots! Lol

 

[SilverBeast]

Damn Bzzt. That's some knarly rust action going on. You almost need to sand blast and power coat those LCAs!

New Jersey right? Nasty!

 

[bzzt]

Damn Bzzt. That's some knarly rust action going on. You almost need to sand blast and power coat those LCAs!

New Jersey right? Nasty!

I moved from Texas to the Chicago area 4 years ago. That's when it all started! 😖

 

[Kband]

Been a while since I've been here.
Fumoto F-106 M14-1.5 Drain Valve, its been a fucking life saver and its the best $35 ever and easiest oil changes EVER.
Radiator Fan Switch to turn on my fans from the inside for racing to cool down engine.
New MOPAR Engine Oil Cooler.
Added a MPX Oil Catch Can.
Rewired my Fuel Injectors.
Replaced both Front Axles and Wheel Hubs and Bearings.
Bought 4 new rims and adding spacers and going for Fender Flares next to give it a wide stance because why tf not.

 

[SilverBeast]

I moved from Texas to the Chicago area 4 years ago. That's when it all started! 😖

Ouch. I bet you regret that! That's like giving your car a death Sentence!

I'm not sure how much people realize their financial lives take a punishment for trying to operate cars of any type in those salty environments!

 

[Sota]

winter beater is always a good choice.

 

[SilverBeast]

Very Much necessary!

 

[T4EaterJonny]

Ok engine guys. This was NOT crankwalk.

So my second seal failed but its because i didn't lube the shaft and I was too stupid to realize the keyway is removable off the crankshaft. ( I know, I know, step away from the car joke) I noticed something else when i removed it. There's two notches on the inside rim of where the front main deal is driven into. Is this normal, or did some moron ape do this with a tool?
I couldn't get the seal to fully seat in those places.
The second picture is of that. Those notches scared me. it caused the seal to not be fully flush. How do I file it down without making shit worse?

LAST question. Black RTV or not?

 

[enginjoe]

Your oil pump is ruined because it looks like someone drove the seal in before and cut into that lip. Look at pictures of oil pumps, there is not supposed to be slots around the edge.

 

[T4EaterJonny]

Your oil pump is ruined because it looks like someone drove the seal in before and cut into that lip. Look at pictures of oil pumps, there is not supposed to be slots around the edge.

Absolutely ruined? You're saying even if I massage it smooth again it will fail? the cuts themselves aren't the problem just the tiny blobs of metal on the inside lip.

 

[enginjoe]

If you could get the hole nice and round the way it is from the factory and no little indents or valleys for oil to slip by I guess you could keep it. It looks like if you smooth the bump down you will have a little passageway for seepage. If it has fancy billet gears in it you could just swap those into a new stock pump.

 

[enginjoe]

vivd is having a sale ...

Mopar Factory Oil Pump Dodge SRT4 CLEARANCE

Mopar Factory Oil Pump Dodge SRT4 CLEARANCE

www.vividracing.com

 

[T4EaterJonny]

vivd is having a sale ...

Mopar Factory Oil Pump Dodge SRT4 CLEARANCE

Mopar Factory Oil Pump Dodge SRT4 CLEARANCE

www.vividracing.com

Oye ok. Damn joe dirt.
Do i need the front cover inlet seal as well? What about the oil pick up tune seal?
Is my oil pan going to leak if i reuse the gasket? Lol
I want to buy everything all at once.
Edit:
Since I have to drop the oil pan it would be lovely to throw in a damn crank scrapper and windage tray since I have no balance shaft assembly in there. However the guy that makes them said you gotta yank the motor to do it.

 

[enginjoe]

Most new pumps come with all the seals you need (main, block o-ring and pickup tube o-ring), but yes I would get all new. The oil pan seal should be re-usable. I haven't done it in a while, but I think there are a couple of spots that need a dab of black RTV. Look at a how to or the service manual to make sure.

 

[bzzt]

Passed Illinois emissions. Woohoo!
Now to pay the $151 registration. 😖
Oh great. A $7.50 processing fee too!

 

[Simon.Starkie]

Took my whip out today in the nice clean air for the first time in a month sitting in the garage due to Smokey air.
God, I love living in the Sacramento Delta. We went to the Cosumnes River Preserve. No Whooping Cranes yet. I guess they are smart enough to avoid all the smoke from the surrounding fires. Will try again in a couple of weeks. The car ran flawlessly again. Oil was up to the full mark and clean as a whistle when we landed.