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Did an oil change the other day. Noticed i have a coolant leak. I knew i was losing coolant somewhere. Thankful i'm not burning it. It appears to be leaking from the thermostat housing spacer area, so at least it should be an easy fix.
 

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Ive used a coolant pressure tester on four different cars now. Great tool if you can't see the obvious leak!
 

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Changed my plugs and swapped out the deck for one with Bluetooth....and drooled over the growing parts list in my numerous online shopping carts; Just need to figure out where to pull the trigger first.
 

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got it back from the body shop after a non-english speaking [hispanic] woman hit my rear driver side door in a target parking lot
 

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Looking for a recommendation for a good oil filter wrench.
I got used to the K&N oil filter I've used since 2003 with the nut on the end that makes it easy to install/remove the filter.
But the NAPA Gold 1516 doesn't have a nut and the tight fitment makes my oil filter wrench hard to remove without scratching.
Any suggestion greatly appreciated.
 

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Looking for a recommendation for a good oil filter wrench.
I got used to the K&N oil filter I've used since 2003 with the nut on the end that makes it easy to install/remove the filter.
But the NAPA Gold 1516 doesn't have a nut and the tight fitment makes my oil filter wrench hard to remove without scratching.
Any suggestion greatly appreciated.
you could always use one of the rubber strap wrenches. They work great, and if you still have a factory size filter there should be enough space between the filter and oil pan to use one.

 

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Yesterday i got around in swapping my rage-tek clutch pedal pivot for the DCR version. Pain in my back to say the least. I am sore today!

I don't know how many years (or miles) I've had the rage-tek one on the car, it's been a long time. While it did show signs of wear on the brass bushing, it wasn't nearly as bad as some I've seen pictures of. That being said, i believe the spherical attachment of the DCR to be a nice improvement.

I made the mistake of finishing the install and then going inside and cleaning myself up/showering before i test drove it. I must has allowed air to get into the line because the pedal is very soft and not fully disengaging the clutch. So i have to get under there and bleed the line before i can drive it. I will report back on the progress once i get it right.
 

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Might just need to adjust it
Maybe, but I measured the old setup and adjusted the dcr setup to be ever so slightly longer. So I think it should be ok. I haven’t yet tried to bleed the system. I’ll try it this afternoon.
 

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I've got PTSD with that DCR clutch pivot setup. There was a metal bur on mine and it cut the HELL out of my thumb. Didnt realize it until i shined a flashlight at the E xlip to make sure it was secure. There's blood all over it to this very day. Lovely part but ouch.
 

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I've got PTSD with that DCR clutch pivot setup. There was a metal bur on mine and it cut the HELL out of my thumb. Didnt realize it until i shined a flashlight at the E xlip to make sure it was secure. There's blood all over it to this very day. Lovely part but ouch.
ouch! my hands and arms are scraped up from the job. I pull the master cylinder out of the firewall to do the job so i wouldnt have to do it all on my back. I still have not attempted to bleed the lines....
 

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my step-father always told me if you dont bleed on a project, you weren't doing it right...
 

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my step-father always told me if you dont bleed on a project, you weren't doing it right...
Hahaha I'm a wastewater plant operator and we say if you aren't breaking things you aren't learning. Bleeding the thing isn't bad. Its dealing with the coldside pipe. That's the annoying part. especially if you have water and meth injection lines.
 

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I attempted to bleed the clutch hydraulics. The slave wouldn’t compress. I pulled it out to attempt without it in the trans. Still wouldn’t compress. I removed the line and the slave operated normally by itself. I pulled the master out. I figured since the slave had been off and I’d have to bleed the line anyways, I might as well put all new fluid in there. So I pumped the master to try to push the fluid out through the line. Barely anything came out. Thinking maybe I had installed something incorrectly when doing the dcr pivot, I took the master apart (completely). Cleaned it all up, put it back together, reattached the slave and refilled the system. Basically still getting no pressure from the master.

long story short, I ordered a new master cylinder. The one on the car was original and I’m assuming I somehow damaged a seal or something. Hopefully this will solve my issue.
 

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The quick disconnect allows removal without traditional bleeding procedures and sometimes, no bleeding at all. If the quick disconnect is disconnected, you will not be able to press in the slave cylinder pushrod. For the srt-4, the bleeding procedure is to pull slave out of transmission, but leave connected to hydraulic line, then push the rod in and let it come back out many times. Then, reinstall the slave cyl into the transmission and press the clutch pedal in many times. Keep checking the fluid level during this whole operation. Never push the clutch pedal in with the slave out of the transmission.
 

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I’m familiar with the process, I have a ss line on mine that replaced the factory line and quick disconnect.
 
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