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still asleep in it's cocoon. wishing we had more snow, as daddy needs baby money.
 

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It took 3 days over 2 weekends but Joe and I finally replaced my water pump and timing belt. Ugh.
Jamal's car is cursed.

Hint for those that don't know, because I didn't; make sure the hole through the water pump is not blocking the hole for one of the motor mount bolts. Otherwise, you get to take the whole thing apart, re-do the water pump and re-time the motor. I've done a few of these and never had that problem. It was an after market pump though...

Also, the special autozone tool to remove the pulley didn't have a long enough extender to put down in the crank. It could only pull the pulley about a quarter of an inch. We tried two of them and finally just put a bolt down in the hole in the crank to extend it. This has never happened to me before either. Weird.

I'm never doing the timing again without a cam tool to hold the gears in place. I've done it before without the holder, with only having to attempt a couple times to get it right, but this time it took forever to get it right it seemed like. Maybe I'm just getting old and impatient...
 

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Vancouver is in the midst of Snowmageddon™ 2: The Snowpocalypse Returns, so I'm not out and about that much lately.

However, it was time to play musical parking stalls and move the cars around downstairs. My red press car hasn't been started for at least 6 months. Plopped a fresh battery in it, allowed the fuel pump to prime, and she started right up like my DD silver, and then sat there purring, smooth as silk. I basically sat there in shock for a good two minutes. I had a whole bunch of tools and various "crank the engine" aids ready, and she fired right up as if the last time I shut her off was 20 minutes ago. I really need to get my ass in gear and get her on the road this year.

Also, I wish Motorweek would hurry the hell up and release their Retro Review for the SRT-4.
 

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Small leak in the driveway after a run.
Looked like transmission fluid. Ahhhrrr.
Eventually found the root cause.
I had not properly installed/tightened the power steering reservoir cap when I last checked it.
It was cocked and leaking a little.
The level was right at the lower mark on the dipstick.
I topped it up with ATF+4 but overdid it a little.
It took longer to suck out the excess with a piece of rubber hose.
Yuk, that stuff tastes bad!
But some Listerine took care of that.
 

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2005 Dodge Neon SRT-4
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9 Posts
Brand new radiator today and about to replace both of my O2 Sensors, I have the retched "Too Rich Fuel Bank" code. Gotta look at those and my Fuel Injectors.
 

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bet it's your downstream.
 

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Changed my front brakes recently and was a headache!...

I kept getting base model parts from the parts stores! My car sat on blocks for 8 days, Jeez! First it was a base model caliper, found out the hard way too. Had all my painted parts ready and it wouldnt go on. My fault as well but I scratched everything to hell and had to start paint process all over. I should have just bought both front calipers. Then I broke a golden rule and chucked my brake shims.... Bit me in the ass too bc every single brake pad set available only come with base model shims! After waiting a week for weather and paint to cure, I had to wait for a hardware kit to arrive and prey it was correct. The only way to get the correct shims is a hardware kit (not stocked anywhere) or buy a caliper kit w the bracket. The whole thing was a circus as far as brake jobs go.

Shes back on the road though, smooth as butter brakes too! All of my suspension parts need replaced, all factory and rusty. CA arms, Tie rods, struts etc.. Time to price some more MPx parts. Surprisingly for the car just sitting its car to keep up w! The list goes on

I did not get a good 'after' pic bc I was in a hurry.. but I decided to go w the Wagner rust proof rotors and they sure are nice! I should have just paid for the vented, rust proof ones from canada but I saved some money.















*Hardware Kit





*The Brake Hose Banjo bolts and washers are also diff on the new caliper. Im not sure it would really matter but I re-used my originals. I never did find a correct one at the store.









I tried the spray caliper paint this time, from now on ill stick to the brush on. I think it is more durable but the spray finish is alot nicer.
 

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^^^ Nice job. But what really matters is how well the new brakes work after a reasonable "break in".
If I could have done it all over again probably would have just gotten the power stop drilled/ceramic coated kit. Wagner rotors and Raybestos ceramics was $80 just for the fronts. The Rear rotors will look alot better bc it has more depth around the hub area so to black will stand out nicely. Ill wait till spring...lol
 

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That's what I'm thinking. I'll be replacing those once I bulk order my Front/Rear End Parts and Rotors ect. So I'll be trying those first.
make sure you get NTK sensors.
I had an "impossible" failure mode with mine when the downstream wiring got compromised somehow. And by "impossible" I mean, the powers that be swore up and down what I was experiencing was impossible as a result of the downstream failure. Car would run stupid lean at part throttle; and I mean 15-16 on the AFR.
 

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2005 Dodge Neon SRT-4
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New Update:
Got a full new front end steering and suspension set and will be repainting my Knuckles along with it
New rotors, brakes, drum brakes and repainting my brake calipers
4 new Sparks NGK
New Upstream and Downstream O2 Senors
New Key FOB
Lockable Gas Cap (This is my baby)

I gotta see if the O2 sensors will fix my Fuel Trim, I'm also going to be cleaning out my Fuel Injectors later next week or so.

Next paycheck:
New Control Arms and Suspension Tension Struts
New Axles
Idle Air Control and IAC Wiring
Oil Pressure Switch

Hoping within this Spring I will be repainting the car a Smokey Gray/Black and refurbishing the Carbon Fiber Hood back to a shine.
 

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If I could have done it all over again probably would have just gotten the power stop drilled/ceramic coated kit. Wagner rotors and Raybestos ceramics was $80 just for the fronts. The Rear rotors will look alot better bc it has more depth around the hub area so to black will stand out nicely. Ill wait till spring...lol
Price out EBC's slotted rotors and Yellow Stuff pads sometime. I can tell you they stop astonishingly well.
 

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Price out EBC's slotted rotors and Yellow Stuff pads sometime. I can tell you they stop astonishingly well.
I've been wanting to upgrade my braking system so this is great feedback on what works well. I've also heard great things about Hawk pads with drilled and slotted rotors.
 
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