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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok,went to the dyno yesterday for some fine tuning...

have the hallman boost controller on, now we run it at 12psi and got stock figures 215/247(one more lb of tq than our previous dyno run). at this time we have the hallman boost controller T'd from the green vacuum tube near the compressor.ran nicely and no spikes.

going for the second run,switched the boost controller to the black vacuum hose coming from the left side of the compressor housing.(recommended way to keep the CEL to a minimum)took about 5 minutes with dyno tools :p , now we took it for a run...at 12psi we lost hp ,down to 207whp but gained torque-257 wtq.(1st run 215/247)

now time to turn up the boost, car was very rich the first 2 runs so we went up nicely :wink: boost now set to 16psi as recommended by the tuner guys.we go for a run again and as the rpms climb boost spikes to 18 then comes back down to 16, i stay on it and noticed past 4500rpms boost starts to fall of rapidly all the way to redline ,by redline it was 13psi!

now during this run i was watching the monitor and noticed the spark wasn't up to par and when it reached 4700rpms the car blew rich black smoke for a split second telling me one of 2 things to my knowledge:

#1 the drop in boost caused the engine to stay rich through redline
#2 somethign was up with the spark

so we decide to take a plug out, hmm first noticed the car was indeed really rich even at 16psi and secondly it was champion spark plugs, yeah the $.98 ones...if that wasn't enough, the label under the hood calls for .050 gap!

Hmm,we take the plugs and check the gaps, ALL were gapped to .055 from the factory! this is why we were running crappy! we had spark blow-out! now we decided to gap the plugs with a smaller .045 gap to see if we get spark blow-out.

plugs go back in,we start the car and everything is fine.

run #3
i run through the gears set the HBC at 15.5 almost 16psi...now in 4th gear i let it loose ,it climbs rapidly spikes to 18-18.5 psi...car still rich, reach the magic mark of 4500rpms and boost starts to fall to redline...went down to 13psi.

246.3whp/276.1wtq


all in all check your gaps if you're boosting you may not know it but you may be blowing out your spark with high boost!

now Nathan...did you guys experience this on your car and did you guys check your plug gaps and adjusted them accordingly to the situation? cause we noticed it right away that our spark was kinda fading...another guy at the dyno asked if they had spark amplifiers or even an aftermarket ignition for this car...

the car never leaned out through the whole rpm band, and we were running 93 octane.

Nathan ,what seperates your Boost controller from the hallman? aren't both ball and spring type bleeders? whats the diffrence between them? if there is SRTGURL maybe interested in bying the TXS MBC. she said yours looks prettier... :lol:

The dyno is your friend!
just a FYI on the tuning on the dyno for the SRT
thankz
NIVO SRTGURLs BF
www.nedyno.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ok...

just did a search for different plugs and durability at that gap....
there's only one company that has plugs for the late 2.4L chryslers and that's Denso, with their Denso Iridiums!

other than that the SRt-4 for now has to be stuck with plugs engineered for non-turbo cars. the stock plugs are Champion RE14MCC5 and to my knowledge these are hot range plugs used in the PT cruiser and other 2.4L chrysler products.

here is an interesting post i found on a mopar emailing list!:

Hi Guys!. I am the proudly owner of a Mexican Cirrus LXI 2002 (and I also
still have the Spirit RT 94), the Mex Cirrus LXI is as same as the Sebring
LXI 02 in the US except that it only offers one engine configuration. A
2.4lts DOHC Turbo Engine with a stock 224 hps.

Here is the deal with my plugs.

The stock settings for this engine are:

A peak pressure setting of 14psi that stabilizes at 11 psi, this produces a
224 hps.

It uses the same spark plugs as the PT Crusier, they are Champion RE14MCC5,
which I think is a little bit to hot for a turbo engine, the PT Cruiser (not
the GT) has a NA engine. These plugs are calibrated at .050" on both engines
(turbo and na)

My problem starts here.....

I have been able to raise the pressure without problems up to 17 psi without
lean fuel problems (10 leds) but the plugs won't last long..... Once I
raised the pressure to 19 psi and I started to get the "salt and pepper"
effect on the plugs so I turn back to 17psi as I cant get very good high
octane gas on here. 17 psi was the perfect setting for my car.

The problem that I have is that after more or less a week, at idle I start
having missfiring, at the begining its minimal but after a few days it gets
worse and worse until you start feeling it when you are under acceleration,
specially at Wot.....

When you remove the plugs, there is no physical evidence of cracks or
something like those, electrode is fine and color of porcelaine is ok
(redish due 104+ OCtane Booster) but if you look at it closely, at the end
of the porcelaine, you could see very thin lines, a patter just like a
lightning when it hits the ground, so I supposed the plug starts grounding
on it's side. I can think that due high compression, the gap is so big that
it cant make the arch anymore and instead of hitting the electrode tip, it
hits the wall.

I have several questions to the experts in here, which are lots :D

1.- I've been looking for a replacement for this Champion pn RE14MCC5 but
without any luck.... Do you have any idea which other brand makes a
replacement for this pn? I am targeted specially to Iridium plugs (NGK)
which have work great for me on other cars.

2.- I know using a smaller gap will decrease the performace of the plugs,
however, this might make them last longer. I have tried .048" and still I
get the same results. Which gap measure do you recommend me to try??? I was
thinking about using the same .035" gap as the old DOHC and SOHC used. My
dealer has tried the platinum spark plugs without success (although they
last a litte bit longer), new wires and a new coil and I still get the same
problem. Of course they dont know about the 17 psi raised pressure setting
:D

3.- At 17psi, I think the hps (at the crank) is about 260hps (stock = 11 psi
= 224hps). Do you think this engine can handle a 50 hp shoot of a NOS system
at 17psi??? I want to try using NOS (now that I've seen how this really
wakes the cars).. Let me know your comments on this.

4.- I was thinking about upgrading the little turbo my engine now has, it
spools really, really fast, but I am more interested in more power at less
rpms. Ive seen this little turbo, after 3 or 4 continuous 1/4 mille races it
gets really hot..... at night you can see it glowing red like hell....
Any interesed person in here in doing some test on this turbos????, These
little turbos die very often... here at my local dealer, they have replaced
about 20 in a 1.5 years since their intruduction. Imagine a turbo that dies
in less that 1.5 years...!!

5.- Any extra tricks for this engine will be really appreciate it. The carro
already has a big intercooler (similar to the Neon SRT-4) and 2 fan with 2
speed each. Its a wonderful fast sedan that has beaten many Sustang GT (new
and old).
hope this helps some who are doing some fine tuning to their cars
laterz
Nivo
 

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Hemi posted about the plugs a while back, do a search and u shall see.

Also
noticed past 4500rpms boost starts to fall of rapidly all the way to redline ,by redline it was 13psi
There is nothing abnormal there. You may want to look into stiffening up the stock wg spring, or replacing it.
 

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srtgurl said:
Hmm,we take the plugs and check the gaps, ALL were gapped to .055 from the factory! this is why we were running crappy! we had spark blow-out! now we decided to gap the plugs with a smaller .045 gap to see if we get spark blow-out.

plugs go back in,we start the car and everything is fine.

run #3
i run through the gears set the HBC at 15.5 almost 16psi...now in 4th gear i let it loose ,it climbs rapidly spikes to 18-18.5 psi...car still rich, reach the magic mark of 4500rpms and boost starts to fall to redline...went down to 13psi.

246.3whp/276.1wtq
:shock: is that all you did to get 246whp and 276wt?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
acr2nv said:
:shock: is that all you did to get 246whp and 276wt?
yeah,the car is so rich...i don't know where to start. her car has no real mods besides the K&N drop in filter and the hallman boost controller.

our first baseline runs were consistent 215/246 add the X-tra boost and jumped to 246/276 that's +31whp/+30wtq.for $90

unlike most cars here, SRTGURLs car is running very rich from the factory.i bet once the new wastegate is in 17 and even 18psi will be no problem as long as the plugs can take it. something is making me wonder if all these cars have diffrent fuel maps?

we will do more dyno tesing soon and i will post more results as parts get added on.
 

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I want my ECU flashed by yours then jeeze.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
here's an old post by Hector i just found...
"Exhaust Depot"
The stock gap of .050 is to big if you ask me. .040 or .045 should be plenty. At a higher boost level, you might miss.
 

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Grunge said:
I just checked mine and they are at .050
i know you set them to .040-.045 right McGiver ?:roll: 8) :lol:
 

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srtgurl said:
here's an old post by Hector i just found...
"Exhaust Depot"
The stock gap of .050 is to big if you ask me. .040 or .045 should be plenty. At a higher boost level, you might miss.
yeah ive always wondered about the gapping of these plugs but quite frankly Jean were they shocked to see the dildo of a plug these cars come with?
 

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Um interesting... I was reading over the post and was wondering why you were getting such low HP when drolander was reaching [email protected]

Well from what I understand, your not suppose to be T'ing into the Green but rather the Blue one because the ECU needs to see boost or you'll just torque gains and not dramatic HP gains. (Someone please correct me if I am wrong).

myfootsmells
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
directed to "MyFootSmells"

i beleive drolander has a few more mods so his car is a bit more efficient.

LOOK:Drolander wrote
Here are my charts. The high numbers are mine. The low ones are the baseline for their project car.

It was around 50 degrees, 60 % humidity. They did spray the FMIC with water before each run. They did use a fan. The numbers are actual HP, not SAE corrected. My mods include:

ATP Downpipe
ATP Hiflow Cat
Greddy Profec e-01 EBC
DR Motor Mounts
PVO-style "Hood Mod"
K&N Drop-in Air Filter
ATP UPP + HKS BOV
Blitz DTT-DCCII Turbo Timer

HP vs Torque:
http://import.h8rs.com/drolander/TurboXS_SRT4_Dan_HP.PNG

A/F Ratio:
http://import.h8rs.com/drolander/TurboXS_Dyno_Dan_SRT4_AFR.PNG

Boost:
http://import.h8rs.com/drolander/TurboXS_Dyno_Dan_SRT4_Boost.PNG
 

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srtgurl said:
acr2nv said:
:shock: is that all you did to get 246whp and 276wt?
yeah,the car is so rich...i don't know where to start. her car has no real mods besides the K&N drop in filter and the hallman boost controller.

our first baseline runs were consistent 215/246 add the X-tra boost and jumped to 246/276 that's +31whp/+30wtq.for $90

unlike most cars here, SRTGURLs car is running very rich from the factory.i bet once the new wastegate is in 17 and even 18psi will be no problem as long as the plugs can take it. something is making me wonder if all these cars have diffrent fuel maps?

we will do more dyno tesing soon and i will post more results as parts get added on.
This will change on the next STAGE 1 flash. There is a Dodge engineer that BJ may help you to reach to talk about the OEM mapping problems.
 
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