[Kenwho?]

Okay, i'm tired of reading about this damn thing, and i'm going to post my question/what I know.


I installed my AGP WGA, and now i'm trying to get it fine tuned (i guess you'd say). I installed it with the bleed valve, and the hose going from the turbo straight to the WGA. The green hose is disconnected all together. IMO my car spools up alot faster, but doesnt want to boost higher than about 12 or 13. Also, i'm getting a code P0234. I did some research, and found that maybe if i blocked off the red hose, it would go away. I reset the ecu, but its still there. Anyone else out there with a '04 have this problem?(oh and I'd rather figure out how to get more boost #1 before fixing the code)


Btw, I do not have a MBC, just the bleeder valve.. If anyone can give their .02 I would greatly appreciate it!

 

[Kenwho?]

lets try this again

 

[jigga_x]

i would say just put out the 80 bucks for a manual boost controller and then u can crank the boost up. as fr fixing the code, u can block off that line...i guess its red...or u can just get a stage 1 pcm.

 

[Surferboy192003]

I have a '03 SRT-4 . not sure what turbo it has or anything, but has blue adaptor plate. Anywho.. i was told and shown once by a guy at the '04 Mopar in Baytown, Texas. This Guy drove a Red SRT-4 and was from OK. He installed a bleeder, it was parts from a air regulator. anyway.. i did the same set-up.. or atleast i thought i did the same set-up, but still have a few questions. I installed the spring on the WG, put the "Y" on the hose running off the WG, and installed the regulator. the 180 degree thermostat, is on the way, but also found out the drilling a 1/16 in hole in the thermo helps out the engine with shock. back to my point.. after installing these items, my boost gauge, basically went hay-wire! my gauge stops reading at 20 psi. and when i ran the car.. i never lost boost, between shifts, BUT it read over the top.. meaning.. over 20 psi. . Now.. i took the spring off.. but left the "bleeder" so to say.. and the first run after that.. boost was still reading over 20. adjusted the "bleeder" to a 1/4 turn open, and my boost read at 15 pounds. Still at idle, vacuum reads at 15, or about .. Im just curious, if in any chance in hell anyone could help me. I came here sorta like a first resort, and found out many more different things to do, but still no help on what i did. the guy that showed me everything he did, ran 13's in the quarter, with everything he showed me. Im just kinda lost. and am trying to firgure out what i could do. thanks everyone.

Surfer..

 

[Steiner]

i would say just put out the 80 bucks for a manual boost controller and then u can crank the boost up. as fr fixing the code, u can block off that line...i guess its red...or u can just get a stage 1 pcm.

There's a company that sells boost controllers for like $15 or $20. Here it is...

http://www.mainsitepage.conceptillusions.com/

 

[MaxxdOutSRT4]

cap off red line and the code will go away. make the WGA ARM SHORTER AND (excuse the caps) and u can get more boost. do not shorten too much, shorten little by little and test it out until u eventually reach the boost want. TIP: do not hold over 16 to redline.

 

[jayman931]

There's a company that sells boost controllers for like $15 or $20. Here it is...

http://www.mainsitepage.conceptillusions.com/

You get what you pay for.......spend 150 and get a decent one.....

 

[Steiner]

You get what you pay for.......spend 150 and get a decent one.....

The design of an MBC is pretty basic. The difference between a $20 concept illusions MBC and a bigger name brand is probably just that...the name.

BTW...you resurrected this thread from the dead. :grimrippe