The Mopar Performance Stage 2 kit came with an adjustable wastegate actuator (WGA) and specified a few millimeter preload, where you'd disconnect the WGA from the manifold's wastegate flapper valve, mark where the arm is going into to WGA, then pull back out and put on the flapper, adjusting the screw until you had the correct preload (I'd have to dig up the S2 install guide but want to say 2-4mm off memory).
Since we don't know what exact WGA they installed and the internal spring tension, the best way to set it to match a stock WGA would be to temporarily run a vacuum line straight from the intake manifold to the WGA, then go for a drive and do a few wide-open throttle, max boost runs. By running a boost reference line to the WGA to counteract the exhaust pressure, the max boost will be determined by the spring tension and pre-load (adjustment).
A stock WGA spring should be somewhere in the 5-8 psi range. If you screw that adjustable arm in (clockwise) it will effectively make the arm shorter, meaning you have to pull it out more which increases spring tension to hold the flapper valve shut. That will raise boost.
Most aftermarket adjustable WGAs work like that, so you may be able to slightly raise boost pressure, but it's best to do so with a custom tune or combination of custom tune and the adjustable WGA. If you leave a stock tune, try to manually increase the WGA preload too much, you may get a big boost spike but the computer will eventually try to compensate if you leave the stock factory boost control solenoid connected.
I decided to replace my Mopar noise plate with a TurboXS SML valve. The stock surge valve had warped some over the years and when boost leak testing was letting air slowly escape out the sides.
I mounted the new SML valve, made sure the orientation was correct with the moon-shaped cutout...
I installed my AEM x series w/out calibration as the manual stated it's not necessary with the Bosch 4.9. My afr at idle is around 15.9
Cruising is like 15-16 and WOT is 12.7 iirc.
Should I try free air calibration? Run to a tuner?
To my knowledge it's a stock ecu/tune. 🤷♂️