Anyone?
Tuning emanage using MAP instead of TPS
I converted my Emanage to MAP today. Got it working ok. I'm hoping theres someone who can answer a few questions.
Do you use the injector correction factor? Or do you leave it at 0 and pull fuel throughout the RPM's?
How exactly are people tuning this way?
Right now, I'm using the correction factor, and running between 11.6 and 12.0afr's at WOT running 9PSI boost without pulling or adding fuel. I read alot that people with my mods are running 10's afr's. Why is mine so much leaner?
Relevant mods....emanage, RC750's, return line set at 43PSI off boost source, 50 trim, built motor, innovate wideband.
Do you use the injector correction factor? Or do you leave it at 0 and pull fuel throughout the RPM's?
How exactly are people tuning this way?
Right now, I'm using the correction factor, and running between 11.6 and 12.0afr's at WOT running 9PSI boost without pulling or adding fuel. I read alot that people with my mods are running 10's afr's. Why is mine so much leaner?
Relevant mods....emanage, RC750's, return line set at 43PSI off boost source, 50 trim, built motor, innovate wideband.
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Without being an ass... I'll give you the simple run down.
Injector Correction, pulls outs X amount of fuel to trick the stock computer. For example. if you put in 578 / 750 cc injectors. The emanage is going to pull out enough fuel for it to simulate 578cc injectors, basically pulling 23% fuel.
What happens when you run stock fuel injectors with a 50 trim... you can only run ab 12psi. So everything here is normal.
My suggestion, from my years of experience on that machine. Never use injector correction for several reasons.
-There's no need when you can just make adjustments in the map
-It's going to pull out too much fuel leading to a large increase in timing which is bad
-You should dial in fuel actual fuel system to get steady amount of fuel for cruising and adjust from there, this way you dont get stumbles.
All in all, leave the fuel pressure alone, dont use injector correction, and tune the air flow map. You are prob going to be pulling out about 25% up top at ab 20psi. Just for reference.
Injector Correction, pulls outs X amount of fuel to trick the stock computer. For example. if you put in 578 / 750 cc injectors. The emanage is going to pull out enough fuel for it to simulate 578cc injectors, basically pulling 23% fuel.
What happens when you run stock fuel injectors with a 50 trim... you can only run ab 12psi. So everything here is normal.
My suggestion, from my years of experience on that machine. Never use injector correction for several reasons.
-There's no need when you can just make adjustments in the map
-It's going to pull out too much fuel leading to a large increase in timing which is bad
-You should dial in fuel actual fuel system to get steady amount of fuel for cruising and adjust from there, this way you dont get stumbles.
All in all, leave the fuel pressure alone, dont use injector correction, and tune the air flow map. You are prob going to be pulling out about 25% up top at ab 20psi. Just for reference.
Thank you.
You're not being an ass, the simpler the better.
Right now I'm using the injector correction factor. I inserted 591 to 750. The car starts and idles fine just runs like shit everywhere else.
You're saying to leave ithe injector correction factor at 0, and tune with the airflow map right?
How exactly do you do that? Just drive around watchin the boost gauge/rpm and subtract fuel when needed? Or do you do just WOT pulls to redline and adjust throughout the map? Or both?
When dealing with fuel pressure, what do you set it at? Mines at 42-44psi...somewhere in there. Hard to read when the needle bounces so much.
I've been playing with this for some time now and I just cant figure out exactly how to do this. The manual really doesnt tell me anything.
You're not being an ass, the simpler the better.
Right now I'm using the injector correction factor. I inserted 591 to 750. The car starts and idles fine just runs like shit everywhere else.
You're saying to leave ithe injector correction factor at 0, and tune with the airflow map right?
How exactly do you do that? Just drive around watchin the boost gauge/rpm and subtract fuel when needed? Or do you do just WOT pulls to redline and adjust throughout the map? Or both?
When dealing with fuel pressure, what do you set it at? Mines at 42-44psi...somewhere in there. Hard to read when the needle bounces so much.
I've been playing with this for some time now and I just cant figure out exactly how to do this. The manual really doesnt tell me anything.
Yes, injector correction should be 0.05plsrt4 said:Thank you.
You're not being an ass, the simpler the better.
Right now I'm using the injector correction factor. I inserted 591 to 750. The car starts and idles fine just runs like shit everywhere else.
You're saying to leave ithe injector correction factor at 0, and tune with the airflow map right?
How exactly do you do that? Just drive around watchin the boost gauge/rpm and subtract fuel when needed? Or do you do just WOT pulls to redline and adjust throughout the map? Or both?
When dealing with fuel pressure, what do you set it at? Mines at 42-44psi...somewhere in there. Hard to read when the needle bounces so much.
I've been playing with this for some time now and I just cant figure out exactly how to do this. The manual really doesnt tell me anything.
The best investment you can ever get would be to get an e-01 boost controller and use the datalog feature so you can playback. Other than that, you should tune certain rpms at a time. 2k-3.5k, then 3k-4.5k, etc.. until you can get some steady A/F's. Then once you get all the sections tuned, do a full pull and see how you do.
If you fuel gauge is jumping around, check for leaks or a not properly closed fuel lid (if its loose the needle can bounce).
PM me if you have any further questions.
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
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