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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know that Manny Z had made some tubular rear control arms in the past. Who has opinions on these or opinions dealing with rear suspension geometry in general??

I suppose this would be a good place to further discuss Prothane bushings in the rear. Some people keep the stock bushings in the rear trailing link on the upright.

What's not supposed to move, what is is moving, and how can we fix it?? I'm not refering to a specific problem. Just post your observations/concerns.

Discuss...
 

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Yes more on this subject. I am looking to install everything soon, S3's, sways, etc, and I am wondering if I should get the full prothane kit. I know you can piece it out through Howell, but I am not sure which ones to get and which not to get. Just want a really solid ride, with none of that scary oversteer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
SRTB4 - is the rest of your suspension stock??
I have my suspension parts lined up ready to install like mattgram. That's one reason I'm asking. It's also just very interesting. Here's what I've got for your reference :

Sway bars from Hotchkis
Tower strut bars from DC Sports
Stage 3 Mopar coilovers
Full Prothane bushing kit
Upper and lower dogbone mounts from Dynoworks
Filled transmission mount from Neonparts.com
Ordered Psi-fi's control arm bushings
Ground Control camber plates front and rear

Anything else besides new rubber? Are there a few things that I can make/do myself. I have access to mill/lathe/welder. I'm a machinist.
 

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I have the mannyz rear controll arms. I am lowered with teins. I did the rear controll arms and the rear prothane bushings (had front already). I also did shorter endlinks. All I can say is jesus! my rear is dancing I got rear steer like a mother. I need an alignment bad but taking corners the rear slides out a bit as if too say lemme help you out here then sets and follows the front very smoothly! I did the rear rotors and ebc pads and woodhouse pads up front. Breaking is awsome now.

I have the psi-fi bushing kit getting put on saturday. I will have hotchkis sway bars here mid next week. I'll get an alignment saturday and do a full write up of mannyz's arms but I can tell I am gonna love them!
 

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Rear Suspension!!

Let take a look at the rear suspension at a whole.
1: bushings, WAY TO SOFT!! All the bushing on the rear, and the front of this car are to damm soft. Depending on what you are going to use the car for, of how fanaticle you are. If you are not going to chage parts, deff go with the prothane or energy bushings. Just by doing this you will notice an immediate diff in the way your car handles. For example, the bushing for the sway bars, they are so soft, they do not let the rear sway bar, if you can call it this. Do it's job.
Rear trailing arm bushings: If you don't want to have what is referred to as" snap over steer" You SHOULD change these bushings. I will tell you why, when the car is going into a turn, the outside tire will get up to 1" of toe in, and the inside 1" of toe out. In other words, the rear wheels will try to steer the same way as the fronts!!
By changing these bushings, you will eliminate this. You will get in return a positive situation. the outside wheel will about .5 deg of neg camber, and the inside wheel will be a zero. When this accures, your tire contact patch will stay straight.
rear control arms: Take a good look at them. All they are is, some flat thin, plate steel, that are S shaped. This = A LOT of flex. If you remember the 1st gen control arms, thye where tubular. A little stronger then the 2nd gens.
By changing the bushings, it will help a little. Instaed of getting the flex from the bushings, you will get more flex from the arms.
Midnight turbo, whoevers arms you decided to go with, make sure that they are forged, and a tubular design. alum, or steel. And if you want the ultimate adj in your suspension, make sure they are adj. Thisway you can play with the rear suspension setting, and tailor to your driving style.
Some off you mentioned that the guys in SCC said that they did not like the way the rear felt when they changed the trailing arm bushings. If they had more adj, they could of helped this matter a whole bunch.
swaybars: just my 05 cents, get the hothckis bars! They are the best on the market. I hope this will help you out on your search. If you need any more help, just ask. You don't have to buy something from me to get some advice. :thumbsup:
 

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Do you still make you rear bars manny? Or are any still avail.?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Could you please PM me the same info?
I was wondering if you could comment on the the "rear stear" that Mike is talking about. Sounds like he has your bars. Is that something that I might expect after installing your bars? Look at my suspension up above and see if you can give me an idea of what dynamics may change by installing your bar.

Thanks ahead of time.
 

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I installed the MannyZ bars:

http://mys1.org/neon/susp/tablepage.html

along with the Hotchkiss bars in back and the Mopar Stage 3 setup. The "rear hop" problem has gone from being scary at 130+ mph braking to a minor annoyance when the brakes are hot. If I were non-lazy enough to swap out the rest of the bushings I bet that would disappear entirely.

Everybody who sees the MannyZ bars loves them. I tell people "Look under the back of the car" and they say, "Ohhhhhhhh...." :)


Edited to say: Get your car aligned early and often when you are changing suspension bits, and the 2001 Neon ACR figures make from a great track car setup.
 

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Question for Manny Z

Manny,

What type of heim joints are you using? brand?
What size?
Are you using left hand right hand combo per arm?
what gauge aluminum hex are you using?
whats with the washers instead of spacers?
whats the price?

-Thanks
 
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