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idk if mines the same problem or not, i have a side-exit exhaust and its cat-less (idk if this is why) but sometimes the throttle sticks at just above 1k rpm WHEN IM PARKED OR AT A RED LIGHT and the exhaust makes a "tuh tuh tuh" noise (creepy and sounds bad), the rpm sometimes stays up in-between shifts and when i put it in neutral while rolling it'll sometimes stay up at 2.5k rpm, and yes i did feel it somewhat pull like in cruise control when letting off of the gas while in gear

im asking if this is the same problem since i havent read about a few of the symptoms i've had in the few pages i read

P.S. my forge bov has a cracked/bad diaphragm and i have a huge boost leak from there (slow psi climb/turbo doesnt hold compression at "spooling" rpm)
 

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idk if mines the same problem or not, i have a side-exit exhaust and its cat-less (idk if this is why) but sometimes the throttle sticks at just above 1k rpm WHEN IM PARKED OR AT A RED LIGHT and the exhaust makes a "tuh tuh tuh" noise (creepy and sounds bad), the rpm sometimes stays up in-between shifts and when i put it in neutral while rolling it'll sometimes stay up at 2.5k rpm, and yes i did feel it somewhat pull like in cruise control when letting off of the gas while in gear

im asking if this is the same problem since i havent read about a few of the symptoms i've had in the few pages i read

P.S. my forge bov has a cracked/bad diaphragm and i have a huge boost leak from there (slow psi climb/turbo doesnt hold compression at "spooling" rpm)
This is exactly what mine was doing as well. I tried wiggling the wires on the tps at idle and the engine sputtered a bit. Sure enough, the red wire was loose. I added some new wire (a mini rewire if you will) on the one wire and used a mini ziptie to hold the wires together tightly and have had no issues as of yet. The existing one had just worn down over time. You can get the rewire kit, or if you are a DIYer, you can always get some electrical wire and connecters on the cheap and use the existing sensor. Hope this helps.
 

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Wow this is a huge thread!
I just had a similar problem after replacing my battery. The car would keep it's revs high whatever rev it was at last almost like a choke or stuck throttle cable but slowly sink down when stopped. I was fearing for the worst after reading some of the posts here but then just for the hell of it I went out and had another look at it and I noticed that one of the hoses from my catch can had came loose and when I put it back on the problem went away immediately.
 

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Pull the connector off of the IAC.
It will throw a code, but it can fix some of the bad idle/bad neutral RPM problems.
I actually drove around for months with the IAC disconnected
.

If it does fix your RPM problems, replace the IAC and/or the wiring to the IAC.
(Since you've already replaced the TPS and TPS wiring.)

This is what my problem ended up being the second time I had issues with idle RPM, etc.
I replaced the TPS wiring and TPS sensor before getting around to the IAC as the culprit.
The first time I had idle issues ended up being a crack in my intake manifold gasket... which was accompanied by some lovely high pitched whistling at times.
So you actually unscrewed the IAC and pulled if off and drove around for months with it dangling by the wires? Just trying to clarify because I'm having the same issue.
 

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mopar no he just unplugged the connector I am doing that as we speak and it works great. In fact I installed a new IAC valve today and its still doing the same crap I believe its most likely the wiring. I will be looking into that this week
 

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I have changed:

IAC wires
TPS wires
TPS sensor
Cam shaft sensor

and i still have the high idle and my car barely runs but no check engine light. its sputtering and missing and bogging down and just all over the place. $200 in the whole and the problems have only got WORSE!
 

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check the pcv valve and the line going to the throttle body off of it. That fixed my issue
 

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For you guys that are unplugging the IAC and it helps or seems to rectify the high idle, look for vacuum leaks between the throttle body and the engine. Basically anywhere on the intake manifold like the PCV lines xbladr mentioned, the MAP sensor port, brake booster line underneath and the gasket itself.
 

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<- Changed the timing belt. Went looking for the throttle cable and found some frayed wire. Original '03 never experienced the 3k issues for TPS, etc. as of 105k miles. Path was clear for the throttle cable, no clue :/ unless just stretched over time. Searching to find where to order one now. No close dealers, not that i'd trust them :p
 

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5017119AA iac pigtail kit
4861655AB iac
 

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I had this same problem, and gues what did it for me; A NEW BATTERY.

I also had boost gauge flutter, speedo flutter, speedo light flicker, and performance loss (rich A/F, etc) all could not be solved. The Battery solved all of that; yes I did a reset on the old battery, check for leaks, and ran electrical checks on everything.
 

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Mine is now doing the same thing. I'm not throwing any codes yet. I am getting an rough idle and an over rev to 2-2500 Rpms when I let off the gas.
 

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I don't think this fixed it but my ngk 4306's were gapped at .040 l, gapped them to .035 and the idle got a lot smoother and that hanging rev seemed to have gone away for a few days then came back a little when it got humid as hell outside
 

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i dont have an issue with the 3k part but when i drop my car into neutral coming to a light or something the idle hangs anywhere from 1500-2000 RPM's... ive replaced my TPS, going to change the wiring harness and then the IAC after that... any other suggestions?
 

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I would like to add some input as well. I was having similar problems with my 04 as well. I had the fluttery gauges, rpm just hanging higher than normal seemed like all the time not just moving.
But it was weird to me because I was getting other symptoms as well.

Battery ended up having a dead cell which fixed a little but still not perfect. Everything was fine except (like everyone else) my rpm would hang at about 1300 in neutral moving and drop to 850-900 at complete stop. So I did double check the TPS wiring and turns out the wiring was redone and a solder broke apart on the black of the 3 wires and that fixed everything.

hope this helps
 

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i dont have an issue with the 3k part but when i drop my car into neutral coming to a light or something the idle hangs anywhere from 1500-2000 RPM's... ive replaced my TPS, going to change the wiring harness and then the IAC after that... any other suggestions?
test your battery, cant hurt

and you said changed the TPS, did you just change the sensor or the wiring as well?

heres the link for the TPS wiring fix
http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f75/how-tps-repair-kit-382464/
 
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