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UPDATE:

So here's where we are at right now.

I have a tracking number for UPS for my transmission, UPS is waiting on delivery, which is fine, I know they are hitting the transmission with epoxy paint, and the other reason I'm okay with it...

Modern is saying the Prothane inserts, both for suspension and engine mounts, are all on backorder :(

It is not supposed to "be longer than a month" before they'd have them sent out. I went ahead and added the transmission inserts to the order. Modern just added them to the order without any extra shipping/handling which was good. I think Cindy from FWD is trying to sell me on the solid mounts... I went with the street inserts (not even the race ones) because I'm just worried about the vibration. We'll see :D
(y)
 

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UPDATE:

So here's where we are at right now.

I have a tracking number for UPS for my transmission, UPS is waiting on delivery, which is fine, I know they are hitting the transmission with epoxy paint, and the other reason I'm okay with it...

Modern is saying the Prothane inserts, both for suspension and engine mounts, are all on backorder :(

It is not supposed to "be longer than a month" before they'd have them sent out. I went ahead and added the transmission inserts to the order. Modern just added them to the order without any extra shipping/handling which was good. I think Cindy from FWD is trying to sell me on the solid mounts... I went with the street inserts (not even the race ones) because I'm just worried about the vibration. We'll see :D
ive got a set of filled mounts. they are not bad. Prothane gave me a Shipping date of 5/26/21.

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
Update: Transmission will arrive tomorrow. Excited but it will have to sit for a bit. I want to do all the front axle/frame suspension bushings before I put everything on the bottom back together. Then I'll put a few miles on the new transmission, then put in the rear. I also will want to see if I need to replace my factory (original) struts.

That way I'll only have to go through one alignment. I think I'll email Modern and see if they can send the tranny inserts, at least I can do some of the work to get things back together in terms of setting the transmission in, hooking it to the engine, and hanging it up so I can get the jacks/blocks out from holding up the engine. Even though it's really stable, still scares me :D

ive got a set of filled mounts. they are not bad. Prothane gave me a Shipping date of 5/26/21.

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Dear GOD it better not take that long or I'll be really frustrated, hopefully the rest of the prothane stuff isn't that far on backorder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
Got a text from FWD this morning, "Transmission sitting at the UPS depot, they are refusing to deliver, saying it is too heavy".

Uh, you weighed it at your receiving point of origin, at 147 lbs, and somehow the package gained 6 lbs during the trip? WERE YOU FEEDING MY TRANSMISSION MCDONALDS QUARTER POUNDERS???

I thought it was cute how they put a sticky note on EVERY side of the box to let you know it was 153 lbs, or 3 pounds over delivery weight.

I swear, UPS finds new ways to dick things up all the time. This is the company that will send you a delivery time for "END OF DAY" for an 1800 dollar computer that requires a signature, then deliver it at 1 in the afternoon, then tell you "Oh, that just means BY the end of the day" and won't let you go pick it up at the hub because "it's still on the delivery truck for tomorrow".

Thankfully in this instance, I was allowed to come down there and get it.

Thankfully package looked good, no breaks, no split seams in the box.

Opened her up, so far everything seems to look pretty good. I masked off the end plate and hit it with satin black to give it a bit more of a factory look.

Now I await an email back from Modern to decide if I want to wait for delivery of the complete kit of Prothane suspension bushings, engine mount inserts, and transmission mount insert. Or just have them send me the transmission mount insert so I can at least get started and get everything back together on the top end. Then another decision: put it all back together or wait for the parts for the bottom side of the transmission/suspension.
 

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Got a text from FWD this morning, "Transmission sitting at the UPS depot, they are refusing to deliver, saying it is too heavy".

Uh, you weighed it at your receiving point of origin, at 147 lbs, and somehow the package gained 6 lbs during the trip? WERE YOU FEEDING MY TRANSMISSION MCDONALDS QUARTER POUNDERS???

I thought it was cute how they put a sticky note on EVERY side of the box to let you know it was 153 lbs, or 3 pounds over delivery weight.

I swear, UPS finds new ways to dick things up all the time. This is the company that will send you a delivery time for "END OF DAY" for an 1800 dollar computer that requires a signature, then deliver it at 1 in the afternoon, then tell you "Oh, that just means BY the end of the day" and won't let you go pick it up at the hub because "it's still on the delivery truck for tomorrow".

Thankfully in this instance, I was allowed to come down there and get it.

Thankfully package looked good, no breaks, no split seams in the box.

Opened her up, so far everything seems to look pretty good. I masked off the end plate and hit it with satin black to give it a bit more of a factory look.

Now I await an email back from Modern to decide if I want to wait for delivery of the complete kit of Prothane suspension bushings, engine mount inserts, and transmission mount insert. Or just have them send me the transmission mount insert so I can at least get started and get everything back together on the top end. Then another decision: put it all back together or wait for the parts for the bottom side of the transmission/suspension.
now thats seksheee

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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
Well, the track it from Modern still shows the post office waiting for delivery, so I decided I'd go ahead and get started putting everything together and worry about all the suspension stuff later.

20210417_135408.jpg Removed the decal (YEP, still had it) and then used some glue to adhere it to the new transmission.

20210417_144247.jpg I also switched the circular tag, I don't know if it would ever matter but I want everything to match as much as it can to how the car came from the factory.

20210417_162250.jpg I was dreading this part, mating up the transmission to the engine. I had borrowed a large truck tranny jack from our farm, and I was having a lot of trouble with it. I finally decided to rest the transmission almost falling off of the jack plate, then use a cheapy ratcheting strap to hold it in place. I wasn't confident at all that it would work.

But lo and behold it worked perfectly, I was really lucky, I think the man upstairs was watching over me on this one. I got the alignment dowel on the front of the motor immediately. The jack had little knobs to move things up and down both frontwards and sideways, and that was a godsend. Was able to get the top two 18 bolts in most of the way, then lowered the jack a bit and jimmied everything into place.

20210417_185848.jpg After that, things went relatively smoothly. I did have to break out my milwaukee grinder and put a wire wheel on it to clean some of the old red loctite off from the last time I tried to do this. I got the starter in pretty easily then I was working on the bracket that goes in underneath and I had a devil of a time figuring out where the third smaller bolt goes. The two bigger bolts are 18s and they fit in obvious locations. I finally jimmied my camera up in there and took a photo to make sure where the bolts were supposed to go.

I knew the one in the middle (obviously, it's started) and the one up front would have to wait till I got that 18 tighter so I could get past it. But I could NOT get that last 15, the hole on the upper right in the picture, just would not go in. Then I checked it with a small screwdriver, and there was no hole there.

I was like "WTF???" and looking for another location for a hole, then I realized that there is a bracket behind that bolt and it had slipped down just a little bit and was blocking the hole. That was a big relief because I felt like I was losing my mind.

I'm about 2/3 done, but honestly the hard shit is complete, the rest should be gravy. Next up is bolting the power steering lines back into place, then the intermediate axle, then both half axles, putting the hubs back together, then my H-brace/traction bars. Then fill the tranny with 5W-30 Mobile One high mileage full synthetic, put the battery and air cleaner together, and we should be good to go.

Oh, and my Mopar battery sat dead for probably more than 18 months now, it's on a trickle charger overnight, started the first hour pulling nothing, then it went up to 1 amp, now it's been sitting at 3 amps for about 3 hours, just to be safe I bought a new battery at walmart. Interestingly, the only battery Walmart carries for the SRT-4 is the worst battery they sell, the value battery. But it makes sense, most neon owners are probably not putting a lot of money into their cars at this point lol.
 

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Got a text from FWD this morning, "Transmission sitting at the UPS depot, they are refusing to deliver, saying it is too heavy".

Uh, you weighed it at your receiving point of origin, at 147 lbs, and somehow the package gained 6 lbs during the trip? WERE YOU FEEDING MY TRANSMISSION MCDONALDS QUARTER POUNDERS???

I thought it was cute how they put a sticky note on EVERY side of the box to let you know it was 153 lbs, or 3 pounds over delivery weight.

I swear, UPS finds new ways to dick things up all the time. This is the company that will send you a delivery time for "END OF DAY" for an 1800 dollar computer that requires a signature, then deliver it at 1 in the afternoon, then tell you "Oh, that just means BY the end of the day" and won't let you go pick it up at the hub because "it's still on the delivery truck for tomorrow".

Thankfully in this instance, I was allowed to come down there and get it.

Thankfully package looked good, no breaks, no split seams in the box.
Anything over 150lbs I believe has to go UPS freight. So when it was originally weighed it was to save on shipping for the shipper to the consignee. I see packages that say they weigh 65lbs but they actually weigh like 85lbs. Anything over 70lbs causes a huge up charge in prices. But companies do it all the time to save money.

How was it packaged, just in a homedepot box!?!? I am guessing it was just wrapped in a bunch of bubble wrap? Usually transmissions are banded down to a wooden pallet. But that makes shipping more expensive. Glad it wasn't damaged in shipping. 150lb boxes suck to move around.

If you have an $1800 computer you can go to the UPS site and have it set up where you pick the package up at the nearest hub at your time. Whenever I have a very expensive item I just pick it up at the hub. End of Day just means it needs to be delivered by the end of the day. No time window on when it will be delivered.

Yes a transmission jack is a very nice thing to have! Another set of hands helps out quite a bit too! Hope you get your car back on the road soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
I got the rest of the vehicle put together this morning, had my battery on a charger for the last 12 hours and got that installed.

I went to lower the car, and decided to take out only one block at a time, just to be safe, and boy was I lucky I did. The jack slid sideways on me and popped out, and the car dropped about 3 or 4 inches to the blocks. Thankfully they were right under the main portion of the frame right behind the engine. I was able to set the jack up a little better and get the car down.

She fired right up, took the car out for a test drive...

Clutch started slipping almost immediately, I could drive under very light acceleration but if I got on it, clutch continued to slip.

I got the car home figuring I needed to make an adjustment, but no...

20210418_113613.jpg 20210418_113630.jpg 20210418_113707.jpg

That's engine oil... :(

All over the bottom of the intercooler piping and up inside of the bell housing. It's not the oil from the transmission either, I hadn't replaced my engine oil yet and this oil is obviously more used than the new oil I put in the transmission.

Because it got inside the bell housing it was likely all over the clutch and caused the clutch to slip, I couldn't even get a good read on the transmission (other than it appeared to work).

I'm assuming the rear main went out, which is truly odd... the car did sit for 2 years but this is just depressing. So everything I did I believe I'll have to do again to get access to the rear main.

I just put all my tools away and cleaned up for now, really bummed out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
Following up, is there really any other thing this could be than rear main? I'm trying to follow up on everything just in case it's something else, but it appears that amount of oil, plus getting all inside of the bell housing, I have a hard time believing it could be anything else.
 

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Following up, is there really any other thing this could be than rear main? I'm trying to follow up on everything just in case it's something else, but it appears that amount of oil, plus getting all inside of the bell housing, I have a hard time believing it could be anything else.
The only way to know is stick a camera up there, or put dye in the engine oil and use a blacklight. that will eliminate one of the 2 seals. I would have just changed the rear main when i was in there because its such a pain in the ass.

the front bearing seal on the trans can get nicked when putting the cover back on.

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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
The only way to know is stick a camera up there, or put dye in the engine oil and use a blacklight. that will eliminate one of the 2 seals. I would have just changed the rear main when i was in there because its such a pain in the ass.

the front bearing seal on the trans can get nicked when putting the cover back on.

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If you mean differentiating between transmission and engine as far as where the oil is coming from, it's from the engine, that much I know for sure, it's a large amount and dark colored (used).
 

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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
So, it's been a few hours (obviously) and I'm a little less down now.

With a little perspective that is.

It was so odd when I got into my test drive this morning, I couldn't understand why such a good clutch would be slipping... of course your mind goes just about everywhere.... "Are my tires so old that they're spinning???" was one thought, then I just figured maybe I needed to adjust something?

As far as having to do this again....

I'm going to be doing about 3/4 of this work when I get all my prothane suspension parts anyway, so this isn't as huge a deal as it could have been.

Something had been leaking a little oil but I wasn't all that concerned before, I'm wondering if the car sitting for the last 2 and a half years led to this? It's hard to believe but such is life I guess.

I think the longer I wait to fix my car, it breaks faster once i get it fixed.

Last time I waited a year to repair it, it broke a week later. This time 2 and a half years. It broke after 15 minutes.

If I let the car sit for 5 years it will probably explode when I touch it LOL

I gotta tell you guys though, that first five minutes driving down the road, just puttering around, pulling up to the stop sign and downshifting "ping pop ping bag pop pop" Ooooh it felt good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #94 ·
Got back into it today, aimed at dropping the transmission by this evening.

Had trouble getting motivated this morning, didn't get started till 1pm, then the neighbor comes over at 2pm and we are talking till almost 3. Got back into it again, dropped the transmission at just before 8pm. That big ass 2000 lb capacity truck transmission jack I borrowed from our farm is a beast, I just strap the transmission off-set hanging off the edge and that's where I'm leaving it till I get the rest of this work done.

My 3/8" lithium ratcheting driver was a god send for the flexplate, was able to pull it in under a minute. That would have probably been a half hour without it.

As soon as I pulled the flexplate I knew that my initial assessment of the problem was not correct. Then I looked closer...

So, what exactly happened? Here's the photo:
147137


Yep, oil pan bolt loose, I didn't loosen that, and 2 bolts in back completely missing. I've never had the pan off, it's mind boggling to me that they just "came loose" but apparently that's what I'm looking at here. So now it appears I've got something else to work on, specifically dropping the pan once I have the transmission back in, redoing a new gasket, and putting it back on, along with finding a couple of new bolts. In some ways this is a relief because I was wondering why I was getting residual oil along the back of the motor, I think the reason I never noticed before was that when you look at it straight up from underneath, you honestly can't tell that a bolt is missing because the clear area around where the bolt would normally be seated appears inverted in the dark, so it looks almost like a bolt head is there.

The worst news of the day? There actually isn't a lot of oil in the bell housing. Why is that bad news?

The way my Clutch Masters Stage 3 clutch was slipping, I'm scared I'm out 500 dollars for a clutch that I only ever got to put like 100 miles on. When my original transmission failed, it blew a hole into the inside of the bell housing and drained all the ATF out through that hole, and likely all over the clutch.

I'm just hoping that a transmission shop might be able to clean it, or I may try and call Clutchmasters direct and maybe they can help me somehow. I'm just worried this clutch is ruined.

I've got some phone calls to make to find out what I need to do. I know Clutchmasters is a good brand and hopefully there would be some sympathy for what I'm going through if I needed to have my modular clutch taken apart by them and a new clutch plate put in.

So, moving forward.

The suspension parts arrive tomorrow by Fed Ex, so that will give me something to work on for the time being. I'll have to get the transmission reinstalled before I can do anything with the pan regardless, unless I find some innovative way to hold up the engine with the transmission out of the car. But there's really no benefit to doing that so I'm inclined to wait till I get the transmission back in.

I feel like I'm running a hurdles race and everytime it feels like I'm nearing the finish, I find another lap to go. I just want to stop finding problems lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #95 ·
Oh, quick question: Does anyone know if the oil pan stud bolts are the same size in the SRT-4 as the regular neon? That might save me some money and time if they do match because I have some base neon engines at the family farm.
 

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Oh, quick question: Does anyone know if the oil pan stud bolts are the same size in the SRT-4 as the regular neon? That might save me some money and time if they do match because I have some base neon engines at the family farm.
According to the parts manual, the 2.4 pan uses M6X1.00 X 25MM and the 2.0 uses the same bolt. they call them screws, but whatever






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According to the parts manual, the 2.4 pan uses M6X1.00 X 25MM and the 2.0 uses the same bolt. they call them screws, but whatever






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To clean your clutch, this might sound weird but try dawn and hot water. my dad said it's worked in the past. Failing that just get you a new clutch disk and clean off the pressure plate and flywheel with brake clean

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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
The problem is that it's a modular which will be really difficult to do that with. I know Ed Peters did a write up on how to take them apart but it is pretty complicated unfortunately.
 

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Probably better off with another new clutch anyway. I've never been a fan of Clutchmaster clutches after being warned off of them by various techs who knew a lot more than most. I'm still getting good service from the SBC Stage 2 (modular) I bought from Aaron (Realtune) back in 2014 but I don't drive my SRT-4 as much anymore and only have about 20K on this particular clutch . But even so, the SBC has outlasted the two Mopar Performance clutches (modular about 30K each) and the ACT DN4HDSS (non-modular about 20K) I had previously. I'm had on clutches due to a gimpy foot and Stage 3 TQ seems to exacerbate the wear problem too. It sure would be a pain in the ass to have to keep pulling the tranny to fix a problematic clutch all the time and not be able to drive it much at all.
 

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The problem is that it's a modular which will be really difficult to do that with. I know Ed Peters did a write up on how to take them apart but it is pretty complicated unfortunately.
ohhh... i ditched modular years ago. yes that makes it much more difficult.

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