Dodge SRT Forum banner

21 - 40 of 87 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,099 Posts
Not to get too off-topic but, I hope you have installed an oil separator on you coolant hoses and change the fuel filter EVERY OTHER oil change. I've had multiple issues out of the new Eco-diesel (On fairly new cars)
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
15,776 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
I haven't seen anything so far, other than an intermittent engine light that has to deal with a coolant valve, apparently something that owners are pushing Dodge to do a recall for. From what I've seen it doesn't create any real issue though. Mostly annoying. I love this truck so far, except for the infotainment center and other dash/button issues, very badly designed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,099 Posts
Check the eco forums on oil coolers failing, mysterious asphaltene build up causing a cel for turbo boost low caused by sticking injectors, intakes melting lol I can go on. You wouldn't belive what the intake looks like at 10,000 miles.

Not trying to put down your tuck and I'm glad you like it, but I work on them all the time. Let us know when you get that trans down and out!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,108 Posts
My personal opinion is that the stock shift forks aren't that big of a problem if you shift normally and don't abuse the trans. If you like to grab and bang gears really hard then they might be a weak point.
I had the problem with mine after putting in Boogers. Looking at the design of the stock bushings, I decided they were made the way they are in order to provide a little cushioning. I switched back to stock, and you know, it was hard to tell much of a difference in shift feel.

I bought my SRT4 new with 2 miles on it. Had the bent 3 fork at 60-something thousand miles. Got a new stock clutch, throwout bearing, and release fork at about 130K. New piston rings and BWS turbo at 203K, and I'm at about 205K now. Hope to keep this thing at least another 10 years!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,931 Posts
If you're shooting for 400hp range it would be easy to be tempted by a four or six-puck ceramic disc. If you then add solid engine and trans mounts you're going to change the character of the car pretty dramatically. They engage like an on-off switch that requires a lot more revs to engage smoothly.
I have the most aggressive ACT clutch in my car besides going full twin disk....it does NOT engage like an off or on switch nor do I rev the motor any at all to get it going. I just let clutch out and it grabs...

Not sure who's car you rode in but it wasn't an accurate representation of that clutch at all...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
527 Posts
Have you a source of new internal transmission parts if needed? I've seen a bunch of used t-850 parts on Ebay but who wants those.

Adrien
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
15,776 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
So, finally getting to my repairs.

I'm being preemptive but based on research and talking to the guys at Modern Performance, I ordered up some items.

AGP Forged Fork
Clutchmasters Stage 3 (going to stick with about 350 hp me thinks) modular clutch
Mopar OEM pivot ball
Mopar OEM pivot fork boot and clip

Will be interesting seeing just what all is up when I get things removed, but I know I want to replace the above items when I get my stage III installed so it is a no brainer to get them now.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,433 Posts
Modern Performance is a good spot for assistance, smart move. And they know Ed Peters.

Good luck
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
15,776 Posts
Discussion Starter #29
Not sure which guy I talked to, he's pretty pessimistic about my tranny, thinks the input shaft and some other items might be shot. If they are, I'll be here begging and pleading to buy some parts from everyone LOL
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,433 Posts
Ed Peters video's






The 2nd video @ 19:40 he gets into the trans.

FYI for you.

Modern Performance has Ed's contact info if you want or need to call him.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
15,776 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
Battery, battery tray, airbox, throttle body, and pipe are pulled, peeled back all the lines and zip tied them to the spark plug wires.

Then decided to go buy a transmission jack from Harbor Freight. They had a 20% off (one item) sale, so got one for $80.

I then headed for the farm and picked up a bunch of blocks. I know, the jack stands are rated at 2 tons, but damn if I don't freak out looking at them being the only thing holding this car up...

Starting first thing in the morning draining the fluid and moving on from there.

Hoping the tie rod removal tool works relatively easy, I rented it from O'reillys.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
15,776 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
Got her way up in the air, blocked and jackstands.

Got the BWoody traction bars and H brace almost off, the last bolt, one of the 5/8" go up inside of the cross member that holds the H Brace, the head of the nut stripped. I swear I used neverseize on these but maybe I forgot? Ugh...

On my way to buy a grinder now to grind the head off of a grade 6 bolt. NOT going to be fun...

I've wanted to buy a hand held grinder though, I guess this is now my opportunity.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
15,776 Posts
Discussion Starter #33
She's out!

So, I’ll give the run down, hope you are ready for the long post.

Yesterday I got started, then went down to Harbor Freight and bought both a transmission jack and a 32mm socket (for the axle bolts).

As I took things apart, I put everything in labeled ziplock bags, reason being, I am not sure this will be done in the next ten days before I leave for Boston for a week with my kids, and I leave right after that for Alabama for six weeks at Ft. Rucker for training.

This morning I got started (as stated above) on the BWoody traction bars. That stripped nut added at least an hour to my time today. I bought a Milwaukee grinder and spent about 30 bucks on a bunch of wheels so I will hopefully be good till about 2050 ;)

Once I got back home, that grinder blew threw the head on the bolt in about 30 seconds. That was nice. A couple solid hits with my 3lb hammer and it came apart.

I then drained the transmission fluid. Unfortunately there were some tiny flicks of metal, about the size of sea salt, not a lot, but I didn’t have anything like that when I changed it a few thousand miles ago. There was also a portion of the oil, for about 3 seconds, that had some silver hue to it, like really fine particles.

Axles weren’t too bad. Got the brakes off relatively easily also. The benefit of having a summer only car that really doesn’t even see rain much. Hung them up with zip ties to the strut springs. The tie rod ends were also very easy. Smacked the side of the metal with the hammer, then tapped it from underneath. I had the rented tool but I didn’t need it.

Strut bolts were easy, stuck one back in (after axles were out) to keep it in place and not put so much stress underneath. I didn’t have a small pry bar, which was aggravating, my big screwdriver wasn’t quite big enough to pry the axles out. Had to be a contortionist to get my big pry bar in place, but it wasn’t too bad. Intermediate shaft came out easy also.

The hot side intercooler clamps were a bit of a pain, and man that thing comes out twisting all over, hopefully I get it back in place where it’s supposed to be. Dropped the power steering cooler lines, but I really didn’t see a reason to remove the cooler mounting bolts to move the cooler itself. I’m sure it was in the way later but I was able to work around it regardless.

Then took the intermediate bracket out. Then set to work on the structural collar. Couldn’t figure out why it didn’t want to drop, then realized it had a slightly raised area above the lateral support brace, took that out and everything came out with ease.

Starter was relatively easy, but couldn’t figure out why it would not move, then realized they have a tab under the manifold that holds it in place. Pretty tricky, Dodge! Booger bushings actually came up pretty easily, but holy hell those 18’s that hold the actual linkage bracket were a total pain in the ass. I am guessing that they are really going to stink going back in too.

Clutch slave cylinder line was next, I was able to use a screwdriver, took a little bit to push the edge all the way around, it was pretty stuck. Then got the splash guard off on the front of the motor (pass side) to prep for ring gear bolts.
Then came a total pain in the ass. I knew I had heard of an 18 that is incredibly difficult to get to, so I had planned on bringing two long ½” extensions up from the farm. Yah, guess who forgot those… ugh. And yes, that 18 by the vehicle speed sensor was horrific. I didn’t even have a ½” 18mm socket, so I had to use a reducer on my 3/8” 18mm. I thought at first that it was going to break. I used all sorts of combinations of extensions and different drives, finally ended up having to give everything I had on the ½” breaker bar, got it perfect to move a tiny bit. Then got the ½” drive on there, and holy hell it moved out all the way difficult. Appeared to be seriously lock tighted too.

Then oddly the speed sensor ended up being a pain in my xss. While I’ll commend Dodge for the plastics being so much better than the 80’s early 90’s models (where every sensor would break if you just looked at it funny). Why do they have such a variety of locking mechanisms, in this case, the red tab that only needs to be moved about 1/3 the distance as any of the other red tabs. For 20 minutes I tried moving the tab further, and needless to say, because I left the P.S. cooler in place, THAT was not fun. Then I figured I’d try squeezing it really hard, and whoop it comes right off. Now I know I guess, don’t need to move the red clip very far. Still such a hard location to get to.

Got the jacks in place under the engine and transmission, removed the transmission mount main bolt, then lowered it down to get the other three bracket bolts. Wrapped the transmission with the strap, tightened it, then took off the two top engine/transmission 18 bolts. Then slowly began moving down and away from the engine with the transmission jack.

Unfortunately, the strap slid and I didn’t realize it, and something made a snapping noise. I think I may have broken my slave cylinder, but it is hard to say because I have no experience with them at all. If so that’s going to be an irritating 100 dollar or more mistake. Got the transmission and clutch loaded up in my truck. Headed down to the farm tomorrow to do some further diagnosis with my father, he has far more experience with transmissions than I do.

Question: Is there a pattern to the bolts on the ring gear/flex plate connecting to the transmission?
 

Attachments

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
15,776 Posts
Discussion Starter #35
Oh, sorry, another question:

The upper radiator brackets, kind of confused here. Seems like they are ridged to hold in place (the rubber portion) but if you push them down further they come off the ridges and snap onto the top of the radiator. I think everything is in okay, had to pull them up a little to get to my H Brace bolts... just odd, seems as though something isn't quite right.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,833 Posts
Can't answer to the radiator mounts, don't remember, been running a small Koyoto for years.

The flexplate doesn't have any special way of lining up that I remember either, but the small plate that the bolts go through that holds it to the crank has a small hole that lines up with another small hole in the crank. There may be a hole in the flex plate too but I don't recall.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
527 Posts
Did you ever find a source for your transmision parts? I'm sure the dealer is a no go. There must be some one out there with a stash of T-850 items ready for sale.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
15,776 Posts
Discussion Starter #38
No idea yet what I'm dealing with. I'd like to keep the same transmission as I can, I know the whole "numbers matching" thing doesn't mean much with transmissions, but it's more of a personal thing.

I JUST got started on this again 2 days ago, did the bulk of the work yesterday. My Modern Performance parts get here tomorrow.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
15,776 Posts
Discussion Starter #39
broke everything down today, found the culprit, the clutch fork did have wear, but as you can see from the pictures, I'm not the most learned on which gear is which but that appears to be the 4th gear idler bearing disintegrated. While we have an apart we're going to replace the 3rd gear bearing also. I'm wondering from the scoring in the one picture however if we're going to need an entire assembly shaft for the input shaft, I'm on my phone right now, hoping to get some answers from you
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,433 Posts
How many miles on the car/trans? I assume this isn't from abuse, right?
 
21 - 40 of 87 Posts
Top