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Mopar Event Specialist
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Basically, a normally decent guy here, has a special friend with a secret car and they go out at night in search of unsuspecting villians, err...maybe that was a different show....

C'mon, you know what you can do with a dollar, you can call one of your friends, anywhere in the country for 20 minutes and still have change.

ACR2nv, I'm just messing with you, I know you're doing the best you can, but it is pretty comical.

Dale
 

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it is and it isnt see we ran into some very serious issues yesterday with this car. Not directly related to the mod but a side effect. While we get this wrapped up under warranty im unable to comment but will say that "when you play with raising the boost you pay the price eventually..." . My friend wasnt too thrilled hearing those words but heck its the truth things are bound to break sometime
 

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Please tell me you're not doing the old "fishtank" mod of using a simple plastic "bleeder" inline to the wastegate. You've got to watch it. It's not all about seeing how much boost it will take. You're really going to cause some durability issues in the end. You've got to find a happy medium. Hook up an air/fuel gauge. They're not too expensive (about $65 for a matching AutoMeter), they've got pretty lights, and you'll be able to see where the fuel mixture is when you tromp on it.

19 pounds of boost doesn't mean anything if you ruin the engine after 10,000 miles. There's A LOT more to it than cranking up the boost. I've got love for ya man and I'm trying to protect a friend. Don't want you to regret anything later....

- :wink: Sam
 

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Exactly sam...pretty much what i told acr myself.....A/F is majorily important....
hope the damage wasnt too bad.
Samel_Camel said:
Please tell me you're not doing the old "fishtank" mod of using a simple plastic "bleeder" inline to the wastegate. You've got to watch it. It's not all about seeing how much boost it will take. You're really going to cause some durability issues in the end. You've got to find a happy medium. Hook up an air/fuel gauge. They're not too expensive (about $65 for a matching AutoMeter), they've got pretty lights, and you'll be able to see where the fuel mixture is when you tromp on it.

19 pounds of boost doesn't mean anything if you ruin the engine after 10,000 miles. There's A LOT more to it than cranking up the boost. I've got love for ya man and I'm trying to protect a friend. Don't want you to regret anything later....

- :wink: Sam
 

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You cant go on A/F meter alone. Well you can but thats only if you spring for the $800+ units. Your regular autometer type bouncing led monitor is not sensitive enough to monitor your A/F. YOu need a wideband setup.

I actually saw a site somewhere whey they redo the autometer so it can become more accurate. It will not bounce around as much as the regular one. I like the A/F setups that give you actual 14/1 type readings etc. But you have to pay big bucks for it. :(


Oh, at 15psi, i was at 11/1 A/F per the dyno.
 

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so i was looking at the autometer gauge it looks pretty easy to install etc but now you're saying they're not very good? :(

is there something else you would suggest ? link? cost?
 

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Exhaust Depot said:
You cant go on A/F meter alone. Well you can but thats only if you spring for the $800+ units. Your regular autometer type bouncing led monitor is not sensitive enough to monitor your A/F. YOu need a wideband setup.

I actually saw a site somewhere whey they redo the autometer so it can become more accurate. It will not bounce around as much as the regular one. I like the A/F setups that give you actual 14/1 type readings etc. But you have to pay big bucks for it. :(


Oh, at 15psi, i was at 11/1 A/F per the dyno.
So then....at 16PSI, you'd probably be nearing red zone?
 

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11:1 is still pretty rich, but as Hector alluded to, A/F is not the only tool you should be using when you're increasing boost.

An EGT probe, in the exhaust manifold, nearest the exhaust port of the hottest cylinder is a really good idea. You can have good mixtures and still be cooking a cylinder/piston.

This is where the WRX and DSM guys will be laughing at us, but of course, they'll offer to help. They learned the hard way that the EGT's are as important as A/F, just like we are now.

On the bright side, now we know who cooked the first SRT-4 engine, so that old thread can go away.

The other point Hector is making, the OEM O2 sensor is not going to react fast enough, or give good enough resolution to tune the car. A wideband O2 sensor can be pretty expensive, and installing it means yet another bung in the exhaust system, but it will give a lot easier to understand, and more accurate, indication od A/F ratio. The cheaper units that splice into the OEM O2 sensor can offer gross indications, but they are more for taking up space...

I can't help but wonder if this thread is now related to the "will an MBC void the 7/70,000 warranty" question/thread on the general discussion board...
 

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OK,
The Autometer and Cyberdyne Air Fuel Gauges are of no use.
They send direct O2 output to the display in 10 gradations where one light equals .1 volts. The problem is that the top bar reads from .99 to .90 which can be the difference between running full rich and lean enough to melt a piston. Although it can give you warning in the event of a major problem (ex. fuel pump failing) where the meter will drop down a few bars it will not let you fine tune the car at all.
This is why they are called "Blinky light meters".
Get a AF gauge that has actual O2 voltage readouts in decimal form.
A gauge such as a Jumptronix gauge.

The modification you are talking about changes the gradation of the blinky lights to display .90-.99 O2's on all the ten bars so that the bottom light bar would read .90 and the top would be full rich.
I would have to look around to find out who modifies the blinky meters but I believe it is the same guy who manufactures the Jumptronix gauges.

No affiliations expressed or implied. :wink:

Evan
 

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haha you guys think the motor is shot...bahahaha no the motor and tranny are still going fine.....just got a slight issue with putting the power down with grease floppin around one of the wheel wells :wink:
 

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good info. thanks. when i get mine i plan on driving to summit racing (about 15 mins from where i live) and picking up an EGT gauge, voltmeter (im a sub in the trunk kinda guy), and i was thinking about A/F gauge but i guess that one's kind of out the window now. also am planning on a pillar dual pod setup. when i get mine i'll post some questions as to installing the bung but right now i think i have a pretty decent idea of how to do it thanks to whoever posted about turning it on, and then using drill bits of varying sizes till ya get the size ya need. any other gauges that i might want to have?
 

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don't tell me you've found the breaking point of the CV's already? If so, I'm surprised. You would think the stock ones should do better than that. Although, I suppose if youre gonna have a weak point, that beats internals. Related to the wheel hop? I'm not good enough to say. But I do know that shock loads are a terrible thing.
 

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one of the passenger boots and the lower mount decided to say bye bye cause of my friend's horrible launching techniques at 17psi. He would wheel hop so bad it wasnt even funny, had the car bneen stock wheel hop would have not been so violent but he would launch way too hard and never back off thus the end result. Basically driver error caused this
 

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Lower mount, I assume you mean engine mount? I'm not that familiar with the SRT-4 mounts. Was the boot caused by the mount, or are they unrelated?
 
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