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Discussion Starter #1
So today I installed a new surge valve complete with new diaphragm, metal housing, and spring from kinugawa turbo. I cleaned the surface of the Mopar blue plate and torqued the bolts to the recommended 10ft lbs. Still in the pic after boost leak testing you can see that some air is escaping from the sides very slowly. Is there a way to fix this besides going with an aftermarket BOV?

I also heard that way back some were filing down their Mopar plates after a batch of them was made uneven. Any truth to that? The plate has been on the car since 2008.

144417
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Personally i coat any gaskets i use with copper spray to help with the seal. I think that would help/solve your issue here.

link to the spray at autozone
I appreciate the suggestions. The leak is between the rubber diaphragm on the valve and the plate. You would suggest coating the rubber diaphragm? I thought that was supposed to be dry.
 

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Mine leaked as well. Ending up replacing it with a new one. The new one leaks a little but not as bad. The design is not the best to have a good seal. I still have the factory boost leak. The line that goes into the airbox. If I do a boost leak test and forget to cap that line during the test it will the air leak out fast. The surge valve is what i consider a small leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #6

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They will leak a bit. Usually around 15 psi and above.

Give Mike at Forward Motion a call. He can give you some good advise and tips. Tell him I sent you over his way. I've been a customer of his for many years.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Mine leaked as well. Ending up replacing it with a new one. The new one leaks a little but not as bad. The design is not the best to have a good seal. I still have the factory boost leak. The line that goes into the airbox. If I do a boost leak test and forget to cap that line during the test it will the air leak out fast. The surge valve is what i consider a small leak.
That's actually a very valid point I didn't even think of. In 2019 do we have a definitive "fix" for the factory air leak? I found this post from 2006 but opinions on blocking it off / leaving it alone seem divided https://www.srtforums.com/threads/eliminating-the-factory-boost-leak-known-as-the-vaccuum-ejector.239676/
 

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I never had issues deleting the factory boost leak on a PCM boost controlled vehicle. Probably just emission crap from what I remember.
As for the Mopar blue plate I personally never had good luck with it. Only one car I boost leak tested where it didn't leak. All others leaked. Just run the surgevalve without the plate. But that can leak over time when the aluminum starts to wrap and the rubber gets bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I never had issues deleting the factory boost leak on a PCM boost controlled vehicle. Probably just emission crap from what I remember.
As for the Mopar blue plate I personally never had good luck with it. Only one car I boost leak tested where it didn't leak. All others leaked. Just run the surgevalve without the plate. But that can leak over time when the aluminum starts to wrap and the rubber gets bad.
to remove the factory leak did you just remove it as mentioned in the post I linked or what method did you use?
 

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I removed the line and what was associated with it. There was a whole host of T's and and things I removed in that area where it T'd into. Just take that line off from the intake and follow to where it goes and cap it off. Or just leave it on there.
 
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