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Hmm....the stock stereo really isn't that bad for a $20k car. But it's surely a combination of both, you could run the stock hu on an aftermarket system but even a cheap aftermarket hu will make it sound way better.
 

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it's the head unit.
You did make an oxy-moron topic though. You said "head unit sucks, cheap suggestions". Dodge made a cheap suggestion and you got whats in the car. Anything better would not be a "cheap" suggestion. Spend the money, do it right. Otherwise, don't waste the time or money. This is just my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
what i meant was, if speakers would resolve a bit of the nastiness, then so be it. my other car is a maxima GLE, with factory bose, so going from that to the srt SUX

I would be willing to spend the money on upgrades, but they are just going to get my car broken into, thus the "cheap suggestions"

thanks for the responses :)
 

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I know that replacing the rear speakers makes a big difference. I would say the speakers are the big killers in the srt. I replaced the rear speakers and the deck in my 03 neon and it sounds soooo much better than stock.
 

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I have all new speakers and factoy head. Sound is fine as long as you do not have it turned up a bunch. The stock unit is a bit weak on power and thus it produces more distortion at higher volume levels. I then replaced my stock head with a Pioneer 8600 and it sounds much better but not as good as I thought. I think the overal acustics of this car are not that great.
 

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A good head unit can maximize the potential of your factory speakers..People have said mine sound better than some of the aftermarket systems they've heard around here. I put in an aftermarket CD/MP3 unit w/ a built in High pass filter, which allows me to Roll off Bass frequencies at 75hz and 125hz to my stock speakers and also has a seperate channel dedicated just for the Subs.. With some EQ boosting mids and highs in the factory speakers and a set of JL 10s in the trunk I am completely happy and I won't be replacing a speaker until it blows... Keep in mind that this is coming from the mouth of an audio enthusiast/sound engineer at a recording studio..
 

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interesting you say that.

boggus said:
I have all new speakers and factoy head. Sound is fine as long as you do not have it turned up a bunch. The stock unit is a bit weak on power and thus it produces more distortion at higher volume levels. I then replaced my stock head with a Pioneer 8600 and it sounds much better but not as good as I thought. I think the overal acustics of this car are not that great.
I have heard a few different HU's and the Pioneers seems to not produce the music as well as say and Alpine or a Sony. Not the standard speaker drives at least.
 

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Unless you're going to get a HU like what SyVol is talking about w/ built in hpf you might as well swap em all out. I can understand the worry of having an aftermarket hu stolen, but just get one w/ a detachable face and get something better than the worthless factory alarm. Or just move to Iowa where you can leave the keys in your car for the night and not worry.
 

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jvc HU, arsenal kd lh 3000 or something, too lazy to go out to the parking lot and look right now. stock speakers still, but that HU has a 7 band eq. ill put it this way: when i bought the car, i budgeted new HU and speakers immediately, its always the first thing i mod. bought the HU, tuned it to my liking, put off the speakers indefinitely.
 

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Well, the stock system isn't that bad in my opinion.... How high do you have the bass???? If you put the bass high and put the volume high, it's going to sound like garbage... I put in a Kenwood headunit similar to SyVol's.... Nothing under 120hz goes to the factory speakers.... I added an amp and subs in a plexi box, and it sounds pretty good...

Do you plan on getting an amp and box???
How much are you looking to spend on a radio???

You can get the same radio I have for $170 on ebay... CD/MP3, flipdown face with autohide, and a bunch of other stuff...
 

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My speakers have a tendancy to vibrate the door panels and make a nasty sound sometimes as if the speakers are blown even though they are not. I'm not sure what I should do about that. I think I should just get some nicer door speakers and rear speakers and put a W7 in the trunk for bass to keep the vibrations out of the car.

Audio experts, any suggestions?
 

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insulation and proper structure is the key.
if you have bad door structure then you will need to either use extremely heavy insulation to stop the vibration or run some better support for the doors.
now lets say for instance you wanna listen to rap
sometimes they hit a note called a b1, its the lowest note on a propely tuned 5-string bass guitar or piano.
on a 7 string guitar that is in tune the lowest is a b2.
now the human ear cannot hear properly lower then 150hz when you hit a certain level of how low the sound is you cannot tell where the sound is coming from. who knows it could not be just your doors if you have 3-range speakers in your doors but it could be the sub.
you have to run many tests in order to figure this type of problem out. i personally believe that there is not enough support in the doors for a large sound system so you need to find a way of reinforcing all of the power coming out of the speakers.
if you wanna switch systems i strongly recommend either going polk audio or if you can afford it(very rare) a nakamichi sound system(and no not the one found in lexus cars).
a good nakamichi system will hit every note of a song perfectly and it should rarely if ever produce any rattle(i am only sure of this if the structure that it is in is stable). also i would recommend a good set of cables. for instance my parents are musicians, and i play the bass and i have set up many sound systems for many occasions. the most important thing you need to know are these 3 things for a nice sound.
1. grounding (you want to keep your system safe and also an improperly grounded system can cause an annoying continuous high pitched sound) and i bet everyone knows what im talking about.
2. power source(ok so lets say you got a system that is "the bomb" now how the hell are you supposed to power all of it? if you have no power you are more likely to blow out the system from a huge load of resistance then from a higher power source.
ex: my cousins bass stack is a 200watt head at 8ohms RMS,400 @4, and [email protected] for the program wattage just multiply by 2. with 2 cabs a 2*10 that hold [email protected] RMS. now you can make a connection have a different impedence by the way you connect it. you can connect one cable to an 8ohm jack to a cabthen run it through in a bridged connection which will result in 4ohms. sam for a 4ohm hack. now if you run parallel 1 jack to 1 cab it will result in a well balanced [email protected] i would strongly discourage the use of anything lower then 4 ohms because it can cause alot of damage to sound equipment.
...continued
 

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now lets look at your options
if you want a nice clean sounding system that will never ever need to be used for very harsh music i would recommend a mid priced kenwood sound system.(not that kenwood is bad)
but if you want lots of teeth rattling bass i would have to say rocksford fosgate.
for a very nice all around system polk audio very very nice highs with their top of the line tweeters.
now if you ever can directly hear a tweeter you really screwed up wither in the choice of speaker or in the choice of amp, it could be you didnt know what you were doing while connecting it.
rule 1. never ever buy used head units
reason is why was it sold back? what if it blew out a speaker or cause the battery to die?
rule 2. never ever ever buy an open boxed item someone could have taken a valuable piece from the box and you would have to pay extra for that part in order to set it up.
rule 3. dont buy anything from target or walmart. those head units are remanufactured units with a different faceplates (most are found in junkyards).
rule 4. if a price is unbelieveably to good to be true it is. lets say it was stolen and they trace it to your tuned up srt-4 bye bye car.
and for the last part of what you need to know (sorry for leaving it out)
3.location and use
what are you using this sound system for? is it for windows down or up? is it for cruising in a quiet neighborhood or pissin off the old fart across the street?
if you want a loud system but 2 12 inch subs and a seperate box, a well made box.
never ever buy the cheap rattly box cause if you hear it buzz or rattle when you touch it or carry it, imagine what it would sound like in your car.(im not talking about unplugged cables).
thats about it ill leave some mroe info a little later
 

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but if you want lots of teeth rattling bass i would have to say rocksford fosgate.
That has to be the worst audio recommendation I have ever heard. If you want lots of teeth rattling bass get a JL W7 or Kicker S series sub, not rockford.

My speakers have a tendancy to vibrate the door panels and make a nasty sound sometimes as if the speakers are blown even though they are not. I'm not sure what I should do about that. I think I should just get some nicer door speakers and rear speakers and put a W7 in the trunk for bass to keep the vibrations out of the car.
How is a W7 going to keep vibrations out of the car. A sub weighing 50lbs that requires 1000W per VC is going to vibrate enough to give your girl an orgasm while sitting in the front seat. Now as for the vibration in the doors, you can read through all that good info bzdriver gave on bass frequencies and vibration, or you can just make sure there is no loose change or any other thing rolling around in the door compartment there. Next time you hear vibration coming from the door, pull on the outside of the compartment and see if it stops. Prolly will. A quick getto fix would be to find a cheap piece of metal or plastic rod that you can jam in there to push the outside of that compartment far enought that it wont vibrate. Once I was getting terrible vibration from the doors, culprit-2 pennys and a stray mentos.
 
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