Dodge SRT Forum banner

1 - 20 of 441 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
357 Posts

This is how we rerouted our vacuume lines with the Mopar Stg1 setup. You will notice that we only have the TIP solenoid hooked up. The lines going to the other solenoids I removed all together. To be honest I an pretty sure that we don't even need the Tip vacuume lines either.

The idea here is that I removed all the unneccesary vaccume lines that are no longer in use with the Mopar Stg1/MBC setup.

:edited for better viewing:


:alien:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,982 Posts
One suggestion, you may want to try the Surge Valve source from the stock setup.
I have tired it your way, and it blows off all day. Using it via stock solenoid, it blows off very fast! and seals right back up!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
380 Posts
If we don't have a BC, but have S1 and a WGA, can we use this setup but attach the line directly to the WGA (just delete the BC from the diagram) ??

Thanks
Don
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
27,026 Posts
TIP or Downstream o2 ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
380 Posts
If S1 doesn't use the downstream O2, can I replace it with the Auto Meter 2244 that I need to install for my A/F guage?

Is the downstream O2 the one in the CAT ??

Thanks
Don
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
357 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
cali said:
One suggestion, you may want to try the Surge Valve source from the stock setup.
I have tired it your way, and it blows off all day. Using it via stock solenoid, it blows off very fast! and seals right back up!
You do it via the stock solenoid it will also blow off to control boost. This way allows you to run more boost.:alien:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,982 Posts
Psi-Fi Motorsports said:
You do it via the stock solenoid it will also blow off to control boost. This way allows you to run more boost.:alien:
Have you tried?
I too used to think your way.....try it and find out. I know it works better the stock way with Stage 1. I know you gusy have stage one.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,841 Posts
Now this is with the Mopar or Stock BOV correct?

If so, how does the BOV know when to release?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
357 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes we have tried with the BPV solenoid hooked up and the ECU would bleed off boost above 17 psi. The BPV still works as it should with it hooked up this way. You have a boost reference on one side of the valve and a boost referece from after the throttle body. When the throttle body closes then you will have a heavy vacuume on one side of the valve and boost on the other. This will force the valve open and bypass the pressure. Obviously this meathod works for us, given the performance we have shown with the car. If we had slow response and boost leaks then we wouldn't run the times that we have. All of this was with the stock BPV.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
537 Posts
nice. but i have a few questions:
1. is stg1 like stock where the boost solenoid needs to see boost? (or did bypassing them like you did remedy that)
2. where does the line with the check valve go to the turbo? and which way does that particular check valve go? (obviously the brake booster needs the vacuum so it is self explanitory)
3. are you noticing timing being pulled?
4. do you need a guinnea pig for your piggyback in california? :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,982 Posts
Psi-Fi Motorsports said:
Yes we have tried with the BPV solenoid hooked up and the ECU would bleed off boost above 17 psi. The BPV still works as it should with it hooked up this way. You have a boost reference on one side of the valve and a boost referece from after the throttle body. When the throttle body closes then you will have a heavy vacuume on one side of the valve and boost on the other. This will force the valve open and bypass the pressure. Obviously this meathod works for us, given the performance we have shown with the car. If we had slow response and boost leaks then we wouldn't run the times that we have. All of this was with the stock BPV.
You know what, you're right. You have a drag car, and the effects of the slow leak are nominal especially when youre WOT most of the time.

For a daily driver, it is better using the stock lines.

Edit: And several of us (Maybe 5?) dynoed 2 weeks ago with stock routing over 19PSI without any leaking.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,843 Posts
cali said:
You know what, you're right. You have a drag car, and the effects of the slow leak are nominal especially when youre WOT most of the time.

For a daily driver, it is better using the stock lines.

Edit: And several of us (Maybe 5?) dynoed 2 weeks ago with stock routing over 19PSI without any leaking.
hmm, so enough people finally showed you evidence that stock is better for the bov :) one of the few, the proud, the informed
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
890 Posts
using the stock line works fine for me (w/ just a new WGA).
stock surge blows off real fast.

random aside - anyone know where to get a replacement for one of the bolts that hold the WGA to the turbo? mine fell into the brace underneath/behind the engine... can't get it out.
(don't worry I have it bolted on... just not with the correct bolt)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,982 Posts
NeonWaSp said:
hmm, so enough people finally showed you evidence that stock is better for the bov :) one of the few, the proud, the informed
Wasp,

nothing has changed. Remember straight from the factory I had BOV leaks due to bad harness ( took em 3 months to figure that one). It wasnt even audible, but u could see the guage flutter.

Fact remains on another car, with aftermarket setup ( BOV+BOP), it did pick up 2+PSI after ditching the Stock Surge Valve. Maybe he had a slight leak too.....but we'll never know cuz he ditched that setup.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
357 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
bubba said:
nice. but i have a few questions:
1. is stg1 like stock where the boost solenoid needs to see boost? (or did bypassing them like you did remedy that)

The solenoids do not need to see boost except the TIP solenoid which controls the what the TIP sensor sees.

2. where does the line with the check valve go to the turbo? and which way does that particular check valve go? (obviously the brake booster needs the vacuum so it is self explanitory)

The line goes to the vacuume nipple on the neck of the compressor housing of the turbo. The chack valves go just as they are shown in the pic.


3. are you noticing timing being pulled?

Definately no timing being pulled as long as you are not running outragous boost on pump gas.

4. do you need a guinnea pig for your piggyback in california? :)
Nope we have 91 octane and mountains here too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
357 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
cali said:
You know what, you're right. You have a drag car, and the effects of the slow leak are nominal especially when youre WOT most of the time.

For a daily driver, it is better using the stock lines.

Actually we drive this car everyday. For the class we are running this car in, it must b street legal and registered. We have no blow off issues.

Edit: And several of us (Maybe 5?) dynoed 2 weeks ago with stock routing over 19PSI without any leaking.
I am in no way saying that everyone MUST do this. I am just sharing what works best for us. If you dan't want me to share info then I will keep it to myself. Should we take a vote?:D
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,841 Posts
Yeah, we should take a vote. My vote counts as 51% and I vote Yes, keep sharing the knowledge.

So the polls are now officially closed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
586 Posts
Psi-Fi Motorsports said:
I am in no way saying that everyone MUST do this. I am just sharing what works best for us. If you dan't want me to share info then I will keep it to myself. Should we take a vote?:D
To me thats bullshit. I personally appreciate everybody who offers info like PSI is offering here but to hold it back because some people don't agree with it? Or imply that you might not next time? You can keep it.
 
1 - 20 of 441 Posts
Top