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Start then stall.

7K views 114 replies 4 participants last post by  lilviper 
#1 ·
So I just bought my 05 srt4 acr. When I bought the car it seemed to be as if everything was working. As time goes on I’m finding problem after problem it’s only been a week! I have addressed as many as I could but this issue has me stuck. I won’t to start my car in the morning about 45 50 ish degrees out and the car would fire right up the just shut off a second later. Did this a few times them finally started. Any ideas on where to start my diag? Or is this a wel known issue?
 
#2 ·
First off, Welcome to the forums and to the SRT-4 world!

Secondly, to help us help you, you need to provide as much information as possible about the car. mods? miles? other issues you addressed? when did this start? has it done this every time? does it only do it when its cold? etc. etc. etc.
 
#3 ·
The first thing i would ask you though is, are you letting the fuel pump prime before you try to start the car? (key to the "on" position until the red security light goes away, or you audibly hear the fuel pump stop.)
 
#4 · (Edited)
Yes I turned the key on could hear the fuel pump. The fuel pump then stopped and I went to start the car. It cranked started then a second later shut off. The red light was on. After a few times of this happening I turned the key on and started without waiting to hear the fuel pump and the car did not shut off. I’m aware of the abs light on, a bad multifunctional switch and connector. The car does idle rough. It has a bws turbo, 3 bar map sensor stage 2 ecu stage injectors. Agm gauges, a wot box 50mm tial blowoff valve and a catch can. The car has around 100k on it. It’s done it once or twice before but never to this extent. Nirmally it’s just a one and done deal but now it did it a bunch
 
#9 ·
Just to answer your initial question, this is not a common known issue.

Do you have any way to contact the previous owner to see if that was an ongoing issue?

The car being cold natured is an odd condition, but shouldn't be too difficult to figure out. As I'm sure you will see the longer you're around here and the longer you own the vehicle, any time there is an issue, we recommend doing a boost leak test (BLT). This likely wont find the issue you're having right now.... but it might. any air leaks where there isn't supposed to be air leaks is something we don't want. A leak at the intake manifold gasket (super common) can cause rough idle and running issues.
 
#12 ·
Do you think it could be a security issue?
I dont think its a security issue since the car starts up (eventually) and runs normal. If it started and died consistently i would suggest a possible issue with the key or skim (security) module.

My big concern is it’s my daily driver and it’s not even that cold yet. It will get colder come winter and I don’t want to not be able to get to work
I understand that concern... my SRT-4 currently has the motor and trans out and apart in my garage so i'm daily driving my motorcycle... winter is coming... EEK!

And how do I do a boost leak test?
The basic gest of it is you use an air compressor to pump air into the inlet of the turbo and then spray soapy water on all the hoses and connections to see if bubbles form (indicating a leak). You fix what leaks you find and keep searching until you dont find any more. Doing this does require some special equipment because you'll need an air compressor and some way to attach it to the turbo (boost leak tester). there are several how-tos here on the forums giving you ideas on how you can make your own tester.

The previous owner knows nothing about it
sounds pretty typical these days....
 
#15 ·
until you can do a boost leak test, i would recommend hooking up that diablo tuner to the car and a laptop and run the software where you can see all the parameters that is going on with the car. Specifically i would be interested in what the coolant temp, air temp, o2 sensors, map & tip sensors & TPS are all reading.
 
#33 ·
I would formulate a plan to check the basics. Do you have intermittent fuel? Spark? Air? do all of your sensors read correctly.. It seems to be related to temperature in some way so expansion or contraction.

The security system may be the problem, but something makes me think fuel system. I had a starvation issue once with a plugged regulator since thats the stupid filter too, and a broken hose inside the tank after i did a BNF.
 
#36 ·
Just an update, i do not have a pressure gauge, i still have to get one. What should my fuel pressure be? also I changed the spark plugs. The plugs i removed were all gaped gapped different .047 .048 .049 .047. The ones I installed i gapped to .049. I could not find a definite answer to what they should be gapped at. The idle seems to be a little better but it still dips low then goes back to normal. There is a modern performance side exit exhaust on it with a cat less down pipe. could not enough back pressure be an issue? it seems as if the car is running rich. i also have a stage 2 Mopar ecu that came with the car when i bought it. Should i try to plug that in and see?
 
#44 ·
Okay so there is to be 2 of them😂 well I was messing with them and unplugged the one and the car idled better, then then plugged it back in and unplugged the other one and the car shut off. Plugged them both back in and the car idled like it had a cam and wouldn’t rev over 3 grand and would buck and chug. Completely removed the one by the fender and the car ran as it did before
 
#54 ·
I recently had one of my 3bar sensors fail on me. i never troubleshot to see which one it was. The car overall ran like shit, wouldn't idle... then sometimes it would... unplugging the map sensor would cause it to die. I replaced both with new 4 bar sensors (this requires the PCMs tune to need a rescale for the larger sensors) and all has been well since...
 
#61 ·
i have no clue. i removed the tip sensor and it ran better, then switched the map and tip it ran the same. removed the map from the tip location and it still ran bad. put the map back on the intake hooked tip and the car ran bad, removed the tip left the map in and the car ran better but not perfect. of course this did throw codes. i cleared the codes and then took the car for a drive and it came back with the following codes: P0888-tcm power relay sense circuit, P1190-manufacture control fuel air metering
 
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