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here you go.

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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
So got a 3 bar tip sensor, put it in the car and overall idles a little better the drops In the idle are less frequent but they are worse. When watching me wind band a f ratios are good then they spike car idles down to almost a stall then idles back to normal
 

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I could be crazy and completely off base, but it still kinda sounds like you Idle Air Control. It removes with a star key (torx). You can check it for a sticking valve by blowing into it.

Edit: Still throwing any codes with the new 3BAR sensors?
 

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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
I could be crazy and completely off base, but it still kinda sounds like you Idle Air Control. It removes with a star key (torx). You can check it for a sticking valve by blowing into it.

Edit: Still throwing any codes with the new 3BAR sensors?
Where is it located?
 

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In the side of your throttle body. There are two sensors there. The first is an IAC, and is located on the manifold side of the throttle plate. The second is a TPS, which is located in line with the throttle plate. The link in my previous post has a picture of the sensor (you will only see the clip, as the sensor is inserted into the TB).
 

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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
I could be crazy and completely off base, but it still kinda sounds like you Idle Air Control. It removes with a star key (torx). You can check it for a sticking valve by blowing into it.

Edit: Still throwing any codes with the new 3BAR sensors?
Not sure have to get to work tomorrow to clear old codes
 

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When i remove the iac connector - it idles perfect @900 WHILE engine is hot.
Cold engine = engine dies...
And naturally - error code for the removed connector...
This is the common presentation of a faulty IAC.

Here are my usual steps to diagnose -
  1. Unplug IAC
    1. Confirm behavior presents as quoted above
    2. Personally, mine never idled 'perfect' while hot, but noticeably improved
  2. If able to confirm 1.1
    1. Plug in IAC
      1. Confirm original issue presents again
  3. If able to confirm 2.1.1
    1. Definitely IAC related
  4. If unable to confirm 1.1
    1. Stop listening to Fork. He's an idiot anyways. Plug your sensor back in and listen to other people.
  5. If unable to confirm 2.1.1
    1. User error. You're messing it up somehow. Repeat all steps while ensuring good connections.
    2. OR... Shake the wires leading to the IAC. These often have small fractures in them due to the sharp angle they are run at. This is common enough for there to be a repair kit
 

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Didnt you say you already checked the IAC?

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I personally see that he did wiggle the wires, but I cannot identify that he did any other testing. This issue presents as a classic IAC issue.

Car idles for shit when cold.
Car idles just fine while hot.

Admits to damaged wires that he repaired with electrical tape as well.

I'm just not quite convinced that the issue is not the IAC. I've been wrong many times before though.
 

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I personally see that he did wiggle the wires, but I cannot identify that he did any other testing. This issue presents as a classic IAC issue.

Car idles for shit when cold.
Car idles just fine while hot.

Admits to damaged wires that he repaired with electrical tape as well.
Oh not you fork, lol. I was talking about O.P.

I did notice electrical tape on the IAT.. which will cause problems.

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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
Oh not you fork, lol. I was talking about O.P.

I did notice electrical tape on the IAT.. which will cause problems.

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Going to be properly repairing the wiring with but connectors and heat shrink. The tape was just a quick patch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #95 ·
Oh
ok. Id troubleshoot the iac.

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plan is to do both. Whomever did the “rigging” in that area of the engine bay with the wires and hoses did a horrible job. So gonna clean it all up check the iac and go from there. Any recommendations on where to get a iac?
 

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Oh

plan is to do both. Whomever did the “rigging” in that area of the engine bay with the wires and hoses did a horrible job. So gonna clean it all up check the iac and go from there. Any recommendations on where to get a iac?
i get all my stuff from modern.

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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
i get all my stuff from modern.

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Okay so I did some work today, first off I made sure that all of the wires were properly connected. Second off I re routed the lines to remove any access of hose and cleaned it up. Third I checked my iac, removed it and the valve moved freely, blew into the one end and no air got through. Cleaned and dirt ot debris from the iac and the port it goes into and reinstalled it. Started up the car and same issue was still present. Unplugged iac and the car shut off. Plugged back in and problem was still there. I’m assuming the iac is okay. I did a fuel pressure test and was getting about 54 to 60 psi. I then trimmed some hose to my catch can and replaced my air filter. Now after everything was said and done I start up the car and got this god awful whistle/suck noise. I have no clue what it is. I did notice what I do believe the vent/breather on the top of the valve cover driver side, is sucking in air, I’ve never noticed it do that before. I can put my hand over the breather filter attached to the vent and can feel suction. I’ve only had this car for not even 2 weeks and I want to sell it🤬
 

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Discussion Starter · #99 ·
I personally see that he did wiggle the wires, but I cannot identify that he did any other testing. This issue presents as a classic IAC issue.

Car idles for shit when cold.
Car idles just fine while hot.

Admits to damaged wires that he repaired with electrical tape as well.

I'm just not quite convinced that the issue is not the IAC. I've been wrong many times before though.
The car does idle worth a shit at any times
 
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