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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just installed my mopar stage1 springs on the front... still need to do the back. Installing the spring on the passenger front I noticed that my axle is starting to develop a hole on the boot. Some grease was kinda oozing out. I took some DAP Clear Auto/Marine 100% Silicon Sealant and caked the boot with it and let it dry. Dried to a very nice flexible rubber consistancy. Hopefully it'll last me a month or so like that. Think it's pretty fresh because there was no grease slung around like I have seen on other cars. Will I have to replace the whole axle or can I just get a replacement boot?

By the way... the front pass. side strut assembly was a major PITA to get off the car for some reason. To get it back in I literally had to remove the tie rod bolt, and remove the front swaybar cushion mount and endlink. Talk about a bitch. Driver front slid right out. Anyone else encounter a freakishly hard corner to do?

OK... now for the rears! :eveilgrin

By the way, other people that have these springs... did you need an alignment afterwards?
 

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yeah, you definitely should have removed the swaybar endlinks before you started. :lol:


You do need an alignment, but just to set the toe back to spec. The camber and caster can't be adjusted with what you have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Haha... now you tell me! Guess I shoulda asked before I just decided to go by the FSM... but all is well! Finally done, and I love the look! :thumbsup: Handling is much more responsive with less nose squat on hard braking, less body roll in slalom type maneuvers, and takes bumps overall more efficiently IMO. Less bouncy bounce than stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Finally got the car with the S1 Springs in for an allignment. They needed to install camber bolts to get everything back to factory specs. Nice way to spend 200 bucks... :stab: Oh well... guess I won't have to worry about my tires wearing like ass.
 

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a lot of times when the boot on the shaft tears, the grease is flung from the axle like you have described and the hole allows dirt to get in and destroy the joint. you may have caught it in time.

on most applications you can purchise a boot seperatly at auto parts stores like napa, zone, pep boys, etc..
 

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stevesquick92 said:
Finally got the car with the S1 Springs in for an allignment. They needed to install camber bolts to get everything back to factory specs. Nice way to spend 200 bucks... :stab: Oh well... guess I won't have to worry about my tires wearing like ass.

I thought they didn't need camber bolts or anything else to get it back to spec with these springs?
 

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the rear could use camber bolts to get some of the negative camber out, but the front needs all of the negative camber it can get.
 

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stowaway said:
the rear could use camber bolts to get some of the negative camber out, but the front needs all of the negative camber it can get.

So in a week when I order my S1 springs from S&P I should order camber bolts also?
 

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stevesquick92 said:
I just installed my mopar stage1 springs on the front... still need to do the back. Installing the spring on the passenger front I noticed that my axle is starting to develop a hole on the boot. Some grease was kinda oozing out. I took some DAP Clear Auto/Marine 100% Silicon Sealant and caked the boot with it and let it dry. Dried to a very nice flexible rubber consistancy. Hopefully it'll last me a month or so like that. Think it's pretty fresh because there was no grease slung around like I have seen on other cars. Will I have to replace the whole axle or can I just get a replacement boot?

By the way... the front pass. side strut assembly was a major PITA to get off the car for some reason. To get it back in I literally had to remove the tie rod bolt, and remove the front swaybar cushion mount and endlink. Talk about a bitch. Driver front slid right out. Anyone else encounter a freakishly hard corner to do?

OK... now for the rears! :eveilgrin

By the way, other people that have these springs... did you need an alignment afterwards?

Yeah, I had the same prob with the pass side. Did the axle slide out, and the boot stretch out? That might have caused the prob., and tore the boot. Good luck.
 

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stowaway said:
to get the best performance, and you don't want to slot the struts yourself, then yes.

Alright, well I've got an ACR if that makes any difference.


But, thanks I'll pick them up so that they can get the car back into spec when I have them installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
D-ROK said:
stevesquick92 said:
I just installed my mopar stage1 springs on the front... still need to do the back. Installing the spring on the passenger front I noticed that my axle is starting to develop a hole on the boot. Some grease was kinda oozing out. I took some DAP Clear Auto/Marine 100% Silicon Sealant and caked the boot with it and let it dry. Dried to a very nice flexible rubber consistancy. Hopefully it'll last me a month or so like that. Think it's pretty fresh because there was no grease slung around like I have seen on other cars. Will I have to replace the whole axle or can I just get a replacement boot?

By the way... the front pass. side strut assembly was a major PITA to get off the car for some reason. To get it back in I literally had to remove the tie rod bolt, and remove the front swaybar cushion mount and endlink. Talk about a bitch. Driver front slid right out. Anyone else encounter a freakishly hard corner to do?

OK... now for the rears! :eveilgrin

By the way, other people that have these springs... did you need an alignment afterwards?

Yeah, I had the same prob with the pass side. Did the axle slide out, and the boot stretch out? That might have caused the prob., and tore the boot. Good luck.
Now that you mention it, the axle on the pass front did slide out and the boot did stretch. Maybe that's what tore the boot since I didn't notice any grease on anything before I installed them. But, I temporarily fixed the boot and have checked it everyday since the install to make sure my patch is holding. So far, so good.

I went ahead and had them install camber bolts on all four corners, eventually I will be getting CO's, so I figured what the hell. Oh, and FYI, a lot of places won't install customer supplied items, as in my case, so you may have to buy what they supply. Of course I had the allignment done at a local chevy dealership for the lack of a suspension shop around where I live... our local Dodge dealer sucks ass.

And why do you want all the negative camber you can get on the fronts? Won't that wear off one of the edges of the tire quick as shit? I know it did on the eclipse I had.

Here are my specs after bolts and allignment:

L/F Camber: 0.2*
R/F Camber: -.1*
L/F Caster: 2.5*
R/F Caster: 3.0*
L/F Toe: 0.11*
R/F Toe: 0.08*
Front Total Toe: 0.19*
Steer Ahead: 0.01*

L/R Camber: -0.1*
R/R Camber: -0.1*
L/R Toe: 0.13*
R/R Toe: 0.17*
Rear Total Toe: 0.30*
Thrust Angle: -0.02*

Sound good?
 

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you need over -2° camber to start wearing the inside edge of the tire, unless all you do is straight line driving. With anything less than -1° in the front, and hard cornering, you will wear the outside shoulder of the tire pretty bad, even with a stiff suspension. Almost always it is the toe setting that wears tires out, not the actual camber. Also, for best handling, you want about -0.5° more camber in the front than in the rear. This will balance things out pretty nice. 0° (or within 0.3ish of that) is best for drag racing or very much non-performance driving but there's a decent number of drivers that will wear the outside of the tire out with alignment settings similar to yours in the front.
 

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stevesquick92 said:
D-ROK said:
stevesquick92 said:
I just installed my mopar stage1 springs on the front... still need to do the back. Installing the spring on the passenger front I noticed that my axle is starting to develop a hole on the boot. Some grease was kinda oozing out. I took some DAP Clear Auto/Marine 100% Silicon Sealant and caked the boot with it and let it dry. Dried to a very nice flexible rubber consistancy. Hopefully it'll last me a month or so like that. Think it's pretty fresh because there was no grease slung around like I have seen on other cars. Will I have to replace the whole axle or can I just get a replacement boot?

By the way... the front pass. side strut assembly was a major PITA to get off the car for some reason. To get it back in I literally had to remove the tie rod bolt, and remove the front swaybar cushion mount and endlink. Talk about a bitch. Driver front slid right out. Anyone else encounter a freakishly hard corner to do?

OK... now for the rears! :eveilgrin

By the way, other people that have these springs... did you need an alignment afterwards?

Yeah, I had the same prob with the pass side. Did the axle slide out, and the boot stretch out? That might have caused the prob., and tore the boot. Good luck.
Now that you mention it, the axle on the pass front did slide out and the boot did stretch. Maybe that's what tore the boot since I didn't notice any grease on anything before I installed them. But, I temporarily fixed the boot and have checked it everyday since the install to make sure my patch is holding. So far, so good.

I went ahead and had them install camber bolts on all four corners, eventually I will be getting CO's, so I figured what the hell. Oh, and FYI, a lot of places won't install customer supplied items, as in my case, so you may have to buy what they supply. Of course I had the allignment done at a local chevy dealership for the lack of a suspension shop around where I live... our local Dodge dealer sucks ass.

And why do you want all the negative camber you can get on the fronts? Won't that wear off one of the edges of the tire quick as shit? I know it did on the eclipse I had.

Here are my specs after bolts and allignment:

L/F Camber: 0.2*
R/F Camber: -.1*
L/F Caster: 2.5*
R/F Caster: 3.0*
L/F Toe: 0.11*
R/F Toe: 0.08*
Front Total Toe: 0.19*
Steer Ahead: 0.01*

L/R Camber: -0.1*
R/R Camber: -0.1*
L/R Toe: 0.13*
R/R Toe: 0.17*
Rear Total Toe: 0.30*
Thrust Angle: -0.02*

Sound good?

Yep, mine did the same thing. And my boot leaked too, and still leaks. I'm geussing Im going to have to replace it pretty quick, its clickin already, after 3 weeks. Hopefully your patch will hold for a while. But I'm guessing it wont be a permanent fix tho.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'm guessing the only way to replace the boot is to take the axle out? Are there any special tools needed to take the old boot off and put a new one on?
 

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stevesquick92 said:
I'm guessing the only way to replace the boot is to take the axle out? Are there any special tools needed to take the old boot off and put a new one on?
this is the link for a kneumatic tool sold by dorman that expands the boot to slip over the cv shaft. never used it myself so i cant say how well it works

http://www.dormanproducts.com/cgi-b...=&start=&vfrom=&prev=&vnext=&category_list=:0

otherwise your options are to dissaemble the shaft and install new boot - snap ring pliers maybe required or buy a "split boot" - a boot that is split down the middle and wraps around the cv shaft and is held in place by zip ties

i doubt the dealer will sell you just a boot, so when you got to the parts store have them look one up for a pt cruiser or 2nd gen neon - should be close enought to work.
 

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hey, I had a tear in the boot, and ended up having to replace the whole axle. I even called around to the local parts stores. No one sold just a boot replacement. hopefully you'll have better luck than I did.
 

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Well I installed my Tein S springs last week and I think im having the same problem but I think my greese is coming out from the Tirerod because I discconnected that peice when I put that spring on cause it was a bitch. I thought I just overtighted it but how can I bet for sure that is the Tie Rod end and not the Axel Boot??
 

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Well it was the axle took it to doge last week and they just finished replacing the entire axle and boot.
 
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