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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Stage 2 w/tt in, PROBLEMS!

Just installed stage with toys on Thurdays, directions where awesome so took only about 5 or 6 hour laid back install. All works fine, but my only problem is the boost I'm hitting. In 0 it's hits 6 psi max. In 1 it hits 10 then rests at 9. In DAB 2 and 3 I'll hit 11 or 12psi and it'll climb to 15 by 3500 rpm or so. Sounds like the wga is off or I have a boost leak (only thing that could be leaking is mopar bov, all other hoses have been tightened.)

Another question is my spark plugs. I still have champs gapped at .50 in there with only 4k miles on them. They seem to be working fine and I can't sense any missing.
 

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i guess just check all lines and make sure everthings on right, no leaks or anything. if that doesnt work get a ebc. to avoid problem like this, when i bought my 05 i just got them to put S2 and S3 coilovers, for 200 bucks. i learned my mistakes from my 03 srt-4
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Right now I'm readjusting the wga. The nut was all the way to the left side of the threads (toward passenger side). I've heard everyone say they don't have any threads showing, which I did of course with it set like this. So now I threaded the bolt all the way to the right so no threads are showing.

So just put back in the clip now and go? I'm assuming this adjustment will give a lot more boost. Quick help is appreciated, doing this right now.
 

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There are instructions included with the kit that explain how to adjust the WGA... I think they say something about marking the WGA and preloading it to 4mm...
 

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dont worry about threads showing. measure your 4mm.

regarding leaks, @ 15psi WOT you should be hearing leaks. are you taking the WOT all the way to the top of the rpm band and still seeing only 15psi?

good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Dale Seeley said:
There are instructions included with the kit that explain how to adjust the WGA... I think they say something about marking the WGA and preloading it to 4mm...

^^^ Ok, owned on that one. lol I'll post back and see what it does. But I imagine each persons wga adjustment setup is similar, what I'm asking is everyone getting right on or close to 4mm with the nut all the way to the right with no threads showing? I don't have a accurate tool right now to measure so thats why I'm asking. I know, should've been better prepared but I'm stuck with stick measure here. :stab:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
ayat108 said:
dont worry about threads showing. measure your 4mm.

regarding leaks, @ 15psi WOT you should be hearing leaks. are you taking the WOT all the way to the top of the rpm band and still seeing only 15psi?

good luck.
Yep, up to 6k rpm it'll hold 15 all the way. Sounds like the wga though because dab 1 only gets 9 psi and the rest of the gears are off. dab 1 should be getting the 13psi so 4 off,and then 2 and 3 settings should be 19 so 4 off. So if it's leaking at 15 psi, dab 1 should be able to hit the 13 it's supposed to. So I'm sure it's the wga.
 

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Try four dimes thickness as a rough measurement...

I have threads showing, I think most people just put a little more preload on it in hopes of getting a bigger boost number, which will result in a smaller WHP number...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Dale Seeley said:
Try four dimes thickness as a rough measurement...

I have threads showing, I think most people just put a little more preload on it in hopes of getting a bigger boost number, which will result in a smaller WHP number...
Sweet, 4 dimes I guess will be the closest I'll get it! Thanks guys, I'll post back in a bit and let ya know how it went!
 

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The four dimes trick was stolen from another member in another thread... For just a couple dollars more, you can buy an inexpensive set of calipers for stuff like this in the future...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks guys. Actually I went out and measured with 4 dimes and it was dead even with forth dime. So it was right in the first place.

But just to experiment, I adjusted it by a few half twists so it was out to about 5mm. Of course I got even less boost, hit 11 and edged to 12 by redline. SO now I'm putting it back to where it was and the only other thing I can think if is that it's the mopar bov leaking like crazy.

I took a close look at it, and on the gasket side I can't see any folds or anything. BUT on the other side of the plate, my buddy looks to have overtightened the bolts, bending each seam up. So there' slight arcs on each seem on that the side. Hmmm, think that could be my boost problem? :frogtongu
 

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the arcs, definately. i did the same on my bov install. did you not hear the whistling sound of escaping air at certain rpms? well, aftermarket CAI's can obscure the sound of other leaks.

good luck man. sounds like you're well on your way to fixing this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Ok, now I'm stumped. Last night, I readjusted the wga to a dead on 4mm, I couldn't get it any more perfect. Also took out my mopar bov and put a nice thick bead of High temp rtv around the ring on the outter side and even a nice bead on the gasket side. Slapped that back on at about 9pm last night and let it dry for a while. Stayed out of boost the whole time to allow it to cure right.
Took it out today and still I hit 11 or 12 right away, and then the boost slowly builds up to redline. By 6k rpm it'll be at 14 or 15 but that's it. Very steadily and not bouncy at all and with no spikes. This is all in DAB setting 3 and in 3rd, 4th and 5th gear, they're all the same. I'm just dissapointed because this is the same max boost I could get out of it before stage 2. :(

This what I'm thinking now that I've gotten any possible boost leaks fixed (tighened ALL IC clamps and sealed off mopar bov):

Vacuum line somewhere is screwed up? I checked them all and they are all seated properly from what I can see. What specific vacuum line would cause this symptom?

Computer just needs to learn?

Could it be spark plug related? Got champs at the stock .50. Maybe they're misfiring or missing the pcm is pulling timing?

My psi-fi pcv setup? (The 90 degree boot that plugged on the stock air box is capped and ziptied with the breather on the driver side pcv.)

A bad selenoid somewhere that's just faulty?

I do have a SMALL exhaust leak at the axle slip on part of my B&B, can get the sucker plugged for some reason. Goin to try to seal it with something tomorrow.

Bottom line something is up with my boost. Driving me nuts...lol

Anyone else that has had similar problems with stage 2 would be of great help in what they did to fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
haljensen1 said:
Explain your "psi-fi PCV setup", if you have the breather(drivers side) hose connected to the PCV(passenger side) hose you are dumping boost into the cam cover.
My exact setup is: passenger side hose has the catch can and goes to the throttle body pcv. The driver side pcv on the valve cover has a breather on it that was provided by psi-fi. Thats how I have it setup.

Dale Seeley said:
Make sure you reconnected the vavuum line to the TIP sensor
Just checked, both ends of the vacuum lines are connected.

Ultimateone said:
Try to gap them at .40
Would that really make a 6 -7 psi difference though? I'll pull out the champs and regap them to .40 though.


Tonight I had it out on the highway, 12psi max. Hits 10 and climbs to 12, thats it...

Another question about the 4mm preload on the wga. If you measure the line from the front, it's 4mm. BUT the line is at an angle, so say you where to measure from the BACK of the arm, it'd be more like 3mm. Or thats what it seems to be to me.
I still suspect the wga being off, only thing I can really think of that'd affect boost this much.
 
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