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Stage 2 are toys worth the added expense?

1K views 27 replies 20 participants last post by  quarterpastgone 
#1 ·
There is a big difference in the price. Does the added expense of the toys come with added performance or would the extra money be better used elsewhere?
 
#2 ·
srtlarry said:
There is a big difference in the price. Does the added expense of the toys come with added performance or would the extra money be better used elsewhere?
If I could do it all over again........I would of get toys and / or a bigger IC. On the other hand if I was you........I would probably just wait and see how Stage3 fairs.......if it turns out good just skip stage2 and get 3! If stage3 turns out good I would like to get that with toys and the stage2 discount........but im not sure if thats is possible to do or not.
 
#5 ·
No toys for me. $500-600 is a lot of money. For that money, I bought a large FMIC for $340 - which will own any sprayer (and i didn't want to hook up to my windshiled washer fluid tank). The race gas and dial a boost are nice features for sure, but the performance gain from them just isn't worth the price to me.
 
#6 ·
I bought it without toys.

Dial-a-boost seems pointless to me. If I want less boost, I press the gas less. I understand that the hardcore drag racers use it, but I just can't justifying adding parts to the car to do something I can do with my foot.

Race gas is nice, and I would like to have the second map, but I don't see myself using race gas very often. Or maybe I should say, I don't want to tempt myself to keep filling up with $4 / gallon fuel. It looks like people running water injection setups are getting good results with the race gas button, and that's cool. That opens up some possibilities. Leave the race gas switch on all the time, and the water tank full.
 
#7 ·
im debating whether to get toys or not. are you guys happy with the power without toys?how are the dyno numbers?
 
#8 ·
get stage ii with out toys and a power paq. power paq will take care of the timing issue's with stage ii with a map clamp(dynoing low) and also be able to be used with race gas. just my .02
 
#12 ·
Corrado? Let me see if I can decipher that?:)

While you can get the same gains AS racegas, anything else will make even more power WITH racegas. Is that that it? So you are pro-toys, right ? :)
 
#17 ·
got_sand_az said:
I'm guessing here, but when reading the oct sports compact mag, it sounds like stage 3 with toys will be stage 3 R. So I would assume it would be stage 3 and stage 3 R

Mopar Stage 3 [FULL] (P5007864, Early-Mid 2004)
Mopar Stage 3 [Add-On to Stage 2] (P4510256, Early-Mid 2004)
-Stage 3 PCM
-TD05HR-15GK@-10cm2 Upgrade Turbo Unit
--16% larger compressor wheel diameter to flow and compress more intake air
--19% larger turbine wheel diameter to flow more exhaust gas and reduce back pressure
--67% more turbine scroll area for reduced back pressure
-High Flow (75psi) Viper Fuel Pump Module
-Demand-Regulated Fuel Rail Assembly

Mopar SRT-4 Stage 3-R (Under Development)
-Stage 3R PCM
-719 cc/min Injectors
-Cat Delete Exhaust (Race Pipe)
 
#18 ·
Corrado Kid said:
pro toys for the race gas setting, i bet the dial a boost is good for those who care about gas milage too?
How so? It's pretty easy to stay out of full boost, you shouldn't need a switch to do it for you. Even then, you still won't notice much of an improvement if you're pushing it that much.
 
#19 ·
W/ toys is the only way to go. IC sprayer is very efficient. It was 107 degrees this past sunday when we had dyno day and my power increased with each run giving me my best numbers on run 3 of 270/300. IC sprayer works better than most would like to think. Race gas mode=magic button if you know what I mean. DAB rules for the simple fact that my wife drives the car and she loves not going very fast(dab 0).
 
#21 ·
Wheat_Burner said:
Mopar Stage 3 [FULL] (P5007864, Early-Mid 2004)
Mopar Stage 3 [Add-On to Stage 2] (P4510256, Early-Mid 2004)
-Stage 3 PCM
-TD05HR-15GK@-10cm2 Upgrade Turbo Unit
--16% larger compressor wheel diameter to flow and compress more intake air
--19% larger turbine wheel diameter to flow more exhaust gas and reduce back pressure
--67% more turbine scroll area for reduced back pressure
-High Flow (75psi) Viper Fuel Pump Module
-Demand-Regulated Fuel Rail Assembly

Mopar SRT-4 Stage 3-R (Under Development)
-Stage 3R PCM
-719 cc/min Injectors
-Cat Delete Exhaust (Race Pipe)
Sweet Thanks
 
#25 ·
cwepruk1 said:
How so? It's pretty easy to stay out of full boost, you shouldn't need a switch to do it for you. Even then, you still won't notice much of an improvement if you're pushing it that much.

actually in a long run, you'd be suprised... i took the 4.5 hour ride down to ocean city m.d. everything all tuned at 17psi. i used about 1.5 tanks of gas :rofl: (I <3 Bad Gas milage) on the way back tuned to 12 psi i used merely 3/4 a tank of gas...

that's just my eperience... but i can say at 12 psi and 17 psi while beating on it you can easily notice how much more fuel you are using at 17psi...
 
#26 ·
Dial A Boost - Wife uses in in the rain I keep it on 3

100 Octane - AWESOME, and if you dont got a cat and dont care about your O2, you can usually get 100octane low lead at airports for 2.50 - 3.00 a gallon.

ICS - Cool if your track will let you spray, and pretty cool on daily driving, but I've found with my light driving i can drain the washer tank in 1 tank of gas. the pump is higher up so there is always fluidf for your washers, but it sucks filling it all the time and i'm constantly scared i'm gena burn out the ICS pump by running it dry. my distant goals are to get a larger FMIC and wire a Co2 fogger to the ICS harness if its possible, I liekl the idea that the cars brain sprays for me.

Ohh and the red and blue lights make great conversation pieces.
 
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