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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I work for a honda dealership so my question is would they be able to do one of the reflash methods or is it a special connector that dodge has?

Also why exactly does it need to be reflashed? Will it not run correctly? Will it throw a CEL? Will it pulltiming?

Last question is i am running the spring mod and its spiking to about 19 then dropping all the way down to 13-14. Also when it spikes to 19 it sort of stops at 18 for a second before it gets to 19 then drops right back down. Will Stage 1 fix this? Is this too high of boost?
 

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Reflash

1. Honda dealer can hook up and read, but won't be able to interface with that part of the system. So, no, they can't do unless they just have a DRBIII, a Dodge specific tool.

2. Wil run for 3.5 seconds, then die. Repeatedly:) I'm pretty sure theres at least one person local to you who has gotten this done, try a "Anyone near Glen Burnie gotten a reflash done? If so, where?
 

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I actually re-flashed Fluke-SRT4's Stage 1 he bought from somebody here in the forums, i used my uncle's DRBIII (yes, he has one, he works at Dodge) using the instructions posted here by glhs837 a while back (thanks, you da' man!) i was able to do it in about 2 minutes, just make sure your dealership calls DCX to get your 4-digit PIN number (it is VIN specific, every car has a different code that can only be obtained from DCX or your dealership, if they know how to get it). As long as you have that PIN number you have a guaranteed 2-minute reflash. Later...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So am i supposed ot install this at the dealership? Or does it not have to be on the car to hook it up to the tool.

Because if you say it only runs for 3 secs then stalls how am i supposed to get it to the dealership?
 

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When i got my reflash for my S1, i had to install the ecu at the place. It took like 10 mins, just swap out ECUs. Its really easy and id say S1 is worth it. I have other mods as well, but i hold about 17psi to redline. My boost controller is my agp wga. S1 is still a learning ECU or whatever its called, so i reset it before i go to the track or whatever so i can hold 17psi to redline before it tunes it down again.
 
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