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First time this happened about a few months ago, I immediately shut of my car and waited 10min. The car was not overheating and the alarm never came on. It drove fine after that, but it did it again this week?
 

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was the a/c on at all? defrost?

The reason i'm asking is i'm trying to determine if the smoke is coming from inside the cabin, or the engine bay.
 

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sorry pal, very hard to diagnose (especially online) an intermittant problem we cant see for our selves. For myself, when i notice an unusual burning smell, i can usually tell what type of burning it is (electrical burning smells way different than oil, which is all different than coolant... etc.)
 

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From recent expierence I was getting a burning smell at idle for a long time..Not all the time either. Turns out it was my turbocharger taking a dump. The journal bearing was going out on it.
Edit: I see you said it was coming out of your vents..hopefully its not a wiring issue. I know the multi-function switches are very crappy in these cars.
 

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From recent expierence I was getting a burning smell at idle for a long time..Not all the time either. Turns out it was my turbocharger taking a dump. The journal bearing was going out on it.
Edit: I see you said it was coming out of your vents..hopefully its not a wiring issue. I know the multi-function switches are very crappy in these cars.
Interesting, yea, its not happening at idle...could it be the intercooler working overtime as the car literally has like zero coolant? AGAIN ITS NOT OVERHEATING (LOL)
 

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why are you running the car without coolant? its possible your coolant temp sensor isnt reading right if you're running low on coolant and not seeing an overheating condition.
 

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why are you running the car without coolant? its possible your coolant temp sensor isnt reading right if you're running low on coolant and not seeing an overheating condition.
I rarely drive the car anymore and if I do its very short distances...just waiting on Zerex G05, bunch of other stuff I wanna get all at once...and from what I read the sensor/coolant gauge is very accurate in the SRT4 (I think blackbird_R/T said that)...and even if the sensor failed where is the alarm w/visible smoke coming out???
 

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Just take it to a reputable automotive shop to figure it out for you. Not sure what you have tried to figure what is going on. Doesn't seem like you have tried too much on your half.. no offense.
 

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Just take it to a reputable automotive shop to figure it out for you. Not sure what you have tried to figure what is going on. Doesn't seem like you have tried too much on your half.. no offense.
Non taken, I actually know a guy who can figure stuff out, it's just that if someone points me in the right direction it goes a LONG way, like the stuff u mentioned about multi-function switches
 

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You should never run a 4 cylinder turbo car with no coolant, especially one with an aluminum head and iron block, even with the composite head gasket, that's a huge mistake, very bad idea.

You do realize that the temperature gauge measures coolant temperature, right? Meaning, with no coolant, it's not measuring anything, and will not go up, even if the engine temperature is sky high through the roof.
 

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You should never run a 4 cylinder turbo car with no coolant, especially one with an aluminum head and iron block, even with the composite head gasket, that's a huge mistake, very bad idea.

You do realize that the temperature gauge measures coolant temperature, right? Meaning, with no coolant, it's not measuring anything, and will not go up, even if the engine temperature is sky high through the roof.
Thanks, yea def not driving the skittle now... well if temperature gauge "ONLY" measures the coolant temp that is a very flawed design cause if someone is losing coolant rapidly and they check their levels only every 3 weeks they would have no idea their car was overheating? If this is truly the case how is it every time I start the car the gauge point to just below 140 degrees and goes up to about 180-200 when the car is fully warmed up? Must be measuring something lol
 

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Are you sure there is NO coolant in the vehicle? I've never run a PL platform vehicle at zero coolant but I know from lots of experience with turbo 4 cylinders that they get overheated really really fast. I brought up composite gaskets because if you overheated a car with an aluminum head and iron block before 1995'ish, you nearly always had to replace the head gasket, and that's if you didn't have something else go bad also. It destroys a small engine really quickly. Around 1995 was when the composite (layered) head gaskets came out, and they were a god send for the Neons, but also for the earlier model 2.2 and 2.5 four cylinder dodge cars (and likely other manufacturers). Those thin sheet metal gaskets offered next to no protection if the car ran out of coolant and the heat would cause differing expansion between the block and head leading to failed gaskets and other issues.

We even had a big ole' Case combine that we stuck a new engine in, and my father forgot to put coolant in it, and ran it till the engine failed because the sensor was dependent on there being coolant in the engine. That was a very expensive mistake.

Perhaps someone else may be able to weigh in on this as far as being SRT-4 specific. I am going on previous experience on a lot of other types of engines.

Why is your vehicle losing fluid?
 

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Are you sure there is NO coolant in the vehicle? I've never run a PL platform vehicle at zero coolant but I know from lots of experience with turbo 4 cylinders that they get overheated really really fast. I brought up composite gaskets because if you overheated a car with an aluminum head and iron block before 1995'ish, you nearly always had to replace the head gasket, and that's if you didn't have something else go bad also. It destroys a small engine really quickly. Around 1995 was when the composite (layered) head gaskets came out, and they were a god send for the Neons, but also for the earlier model 2.2 and 2.5 four cylinder dodge cars (and likely other manufacturers). Those thin sheet metal gaskets offered next to no protection if the car ran out of coolant and the heat would cause differing expansion between the block and head leading to failed gaskets and other issues.

We even had a big ole' Case combine that we stuck a new engine in, and my father forgot to put coolant in it, and ran it till the engine failed because the sensor was dependent on there being coolant in the engine. That was a very expensive mistake.

Perhaps someone else may be able to weigh in on this as far as being SRT-4 specific. I am going on previous experience on a lot of other types of engines.

Why is your vehicle losing fluid?
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Well I'm pretty sure its not losing coolant, more like I never put any since I owned the car (yea I know that retarded). I guess I always relied on the temp gauge thinking oh well, my car is not overheating, I'm good...like I always though the temp gauge measures the temp of the engine, not the temp of the coolant...like I'm still flabbergasted by [email protected]!...oh and before you think I'm a total neanderthal I do change the oil on this thing and all!
 

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Change your coolant out if you never know when it has been done. Mopar 5yr/100k stuff or Zerex G-05. Mix with distilled water only.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Change your coolant out if you never know when it has been done. Mopar 5yr/100k stuff or Zerex G-05. Mix with distilled water only.
s3*ps2 thats the plan, however what do u think I should do in regards to bleeding the system? Like should I start the car up? Rinse the coolant system w/water? Or don't even worry about bleeding as there is nothing there, hence just fill it up w/coolant?
 

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i'd guess you ran over a plastic bag and it melted on the exhaust

First time this happened about a few months ago, I immediately shut of my car and waited 10min. The car was not overheating and the alarm never came on. It drove fine after that, but it did it again this week?
 
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