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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So.... trying to replace the sway bar with Eibach and I sheared 3 out of 4 bolts...
Any ideas on how to get them out?

Sprayed everything down (after the fact...).
Thanks for the help!
 

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Sucks that that happened, but the Eibach front swaybar is 24mm, same as stock. All of Eibach's parts that they list for the SRT-4 are really for a regular neon, thus why they perform so poorly or offer no upgrade at all for our platform.

To fix this you either need to drop the k-frame, drill them out, use a lot of heat, or cut an access in the floor and break the captured nut free and come up with an alternate attachment method.
 

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You could try more PB Blaster and Lots of Heat with a BIG Vise Grip to try and gently back then out. If that doesn't work then try a screw remover, you will have to drill a hole up through the centre of each one and again gently try and back them out. Good Luck.
 

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very common issue for 2gn neons..
i tried soaking over night in pb.. i tried heat.. ended up drilling and tapping with my trusty harbor freight tap set..
 

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Some times coming out isn't an option the threads on the other side are probably to far gone. Since you have enough sticking out you can use a dremel with a cut off wheel to grind a slot that you can use a flat head screwdriver to turn them in and out the other end. Use plenty of pb and heat the surrounding metal to help it go in easy. You will want to grind down any burs that formed when the bolt snapped to make sure it doset bind as you turn it in make sure all the visible threads are clean and clear. Also Im not sure how much room you have above the captured nut so you might have to drop the k-frame like sto said. Return that sway bar and get one off a pt cruiser convertible 26mm and solid only 75 bucks too. Just do a search for the part number there are literately dozens that talk about it. Hope that helps and good luck.
 

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You most likely won't get them out from below. The threads on top of the nut are rusted. You'll just keep breaking the bolts, even if you plug weld a nut on them. As stowaway said, drop the k-frame. Another option would be to cut around the nut and bend the bolts down so you can access the top and take them out. Then bend it straight again and weld the cuts back up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
THANK YOU all for the info and I apologize for the late update.

So - last weekend I left it to soak with PB for overnight and the next evening was no better. I but off the bolt and was trying to drill the rest out but the bits they had at the Self-Help shop. I got the rest of the sway bar cut off so now I have the two ends on the LCAs (I have new ones I'll replace them with later). So it currently doesn't have a sway bar on the front but I'm not driving it anyway.
I ordered some Straight Flute Screw Extractors and am going to try to get the rest of the bolts out tomorrow evening.
And I'll respray everything with PB again while I have it on a lift.

Again - thanks for all the advice and tips!

Attached is what it looked like at the end of the day last week.
 

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You're most likely fighting a loosing battle trying to take them down from the bottom. The problem is that the threads above the nuts are rusted, no amount of penetrating oil will fix that.
Truth. I've killed 3 of 4 front swaybar bolts over the years. You could go thru a case of penetrating oil and all the MAP gas at Home Depot, but it won't help here. Every time I got one of these bolts stuck it was due to a mushroom of rust on the end of the bolt inside the K-frame. You can't get it out with heat or oil because the other end of the bolt is now larger due to rust build-up and will never fit thru this nut again.

You have 4 options, I have tried all 4 successfully in this order over the years:
1. (as already mentioned here) use a dremel to cut an X into the sheared remainder of the bolt and tighten it back in until it pops up out of the nut. Counter-intuitive but works.
2. drill out the sheared bolt with an appropriate bit and tap it larger. this can only really be done once per nut before you start thinning out the material.
3. drop the k-frame and cut holes to access the bolt/nut from the top.
4. replace the entire k-frame for $250 from the dealer.
 

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I just did this to my car. I broke 2 of the 4 bolts even after soaking them in lubricant over night and such. I'll try heat and vise grips in the morning, if nothing then ill grind it flat, punch it and drill it out, in order to tap it again same size as original bolts. Which I believe is 8x1.25
 

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I ended up trying heat (with a torch) and vise grips. After burning my arm a couple times, I got one out of the 2 broken bolts out. The other was a no go. So i grinded it flat with a dremel tool and used a punch to start drilling it out with a left hand drive bit just in case it started to back itself out. I used about 5 different drill bits and broke two of them. I even used motor oil on the bits to help keep them cool. Anyways I eventually got the other bolt drilled out and was able to tap it to original size! I am so happy with the results so far of the new LC arm bushings and front sway bar bushings! My car doesn't feel like a Flintstones mobile anymore when i hit bumps.
 

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at this point you don't need to unscrew them, but just keep screwing them in until they fall out.
You're most likely fighting a loosing battle trying to take them down from the bottom. The problem is that the threads above the nuts are rusted, no amount of penetrating oil will fix that.
1. (as already mentioned here) use a dremel to cut an X into the sheared remainder of the bolt and tighten it back in until it pops up out of the nut. Counter-intuitive but works.
@stowaway you mentioned this method and it's been sticking with me and that's the way I'm trying to tackle this on mine now.
Is this really the best way?

I mean it makes sense, logically anyways.

So far, I've got a 1/8" hole drilled in each bolt. My next step/idea was to drill that hole bigger in the broken bolt and then tap the hole, and then run another bolt inside those threads and use that to try and turn the broken bolt threads UP thru the nut in the subframe. (a new bolt inside/bottomed out inside the broken bolt)

Side question though....should I heat up the leftover bolt/threads at some point to try and break the rust connection and/or weaken the bolt?
 

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Heat is your friend. don’t bottom out the bolt, use a nut to snug up on the broken bolt. This will help avoid another broken bolt inside the original one.
Does my plan sound like a good idea then?

When should I heat the bolt up?

And you're saying to put a nut on the bolt before I insert it into the new threads? (If I go that route)
I guess I'm confused about where to put the nut you mentioned.
I wasn't running the new bolt thru the whole old (broken) bolt.

thanks for the help!
 

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Yes, put a nut on the 1/4” bolt that you thread into the existing one and get enough threads into the bolt then use the jam nut to take some of the load off the threads inside the old bolt. It should let you run the broken one in and out to help break it free.
 
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