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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2004 srt4 w/100k miles with many mods that came with the car. The car does not accelerate. It feels sluggish when I floor it. There are no cels ever. I boost leak tested the turbo and it seemed to be holding boost good. Car seems like it’s getting enough fuel. Things I have done to car so far is tps sensor and wiring harness, New spark plugs, new coil pack, new act street clutch, new turbo kit borg Warner s256 agp kit, all new vacuume lines catch cans and check valves. I am very confused with car as I am stumped at what to do now and need some help. I keep covering bases and car still feels sluggish almost no power in third gear car doesn’t go anywhere. It feels a lot like a boost leak but I do not think it leaking boost anywhere. I feel like I will do everything and the problem will always persist never go away. Thanks
 

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when this is happening, what does your boost gauge show? what does your wideband show?
 

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blocked cat.?
Poss.bad Cam position sensor/magnet?
clogged fuel filter?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Boost gauge shows boost slowly building to only a max of 10 psi never enough to even open the waste gate. Turbo never really spools like it supposed to slow spool. Wide band says 12s all the time. Not throwing any codes. So when you say your throttle body did it go bad or something. Do throttle body’s go bad? I thought it might be the cat so I brought it to a muffler shop and the guy came out to the car and immediately said there’s no blocked cat because the car is way to loud, he assured me that a blocked cat would be dead quiet. Is a new cam sensor what I need maybe I will get that too I suppose. Car shows fuel is 12.5 across the board so I don’t think a fuel filter is clogged. Fuel pump assembly has been replaced recently also.
 

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Boost gauge shows boost slowly building to only a max of 10 psi never enough to even open the waste gate. Turbo never really spools like it supposed to slow spool. Wide band says 12s all the time. Not throwing any codes. So when you say your throttle body did it go bad or something. Do throttle body’s go bad? I thought it might be the cat so I brought it to a muffler shop and the guy came out to the car and immediately said there’s no blocked cat because the car is way to loud, he assured me that a blocked cat would be dead quiet. Is a new cam sensor what I need maybe I will get that too I suppose. Car shows fuel is 12.5 across the board so I don’t think a fuel filter is clogged. Fuel pump assembly has been replaced recently also.
Yeah it was for a Mini Cooper but got 2 codes saying it was stuck open and stuck closed. Replaced it and its back to normal. You can try cleaning it as a cheaper solution, or just inspect it to see if its opening and closing properly.
 

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Don't just throw parts at the car and hope for the best. What does "it seemed to be holding boost good" mean? It is either leaking or it isn't. How do you have your vacuum lines hooked up?
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Don't just throw parts at the car and hope for the best. What does "it seemed to be holding boost good" mean? It is either leaking or it isn't. How do you have your vacuum lines hooked up?
Well the last time I boost leak tested it I pumped in about 7 psi and it held the psi so I assume there are no boost leaks anywhere. My vac lines are run really simply. A check valve at the evap system and lines going to wastegate, bov, s3 fuel rail, tip sensor. All Stock vac lines have been removed and solenoids unused.
 

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Well there's your problem. My bet is on a boost leak. Checking to 7 PSI doesn't tell you anything. You should test at or above the level of boost you're trying to achieve.

How are your vacuum lines connected? You aren't giving much info, and without it you won't get any help.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Oh I see. I should boost leak test again then. See I am not a professional mechanic but I do know the basics and how to work on a car. i do not have an air compressor to test this now but I will get it done I can assure you. The vacuum lines are connected to the fitting on the throttle body and run to the emissions line, bov, the wastegate, fuel rail, tip sensor. There are check valves at the emissions line and on the pcv line.
 

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All that is off of one boost source? I don't see any mention of a boost controller, how are you controlling boost? What port are you connected to on the wastegate, top or bottom? Personally, I kept the solenoids in play and used an N2MB Boost Box. If you go to N2MB Racing and click on "Instructions" under the Boost Box, and scroll towards the bottom you'll see some pretty good diagrams. Granted, these are assuming you're installing a boost box but it should give you some idea.

I also don't see a wideband mentioned. Is this car tuned? If so, how? What about injectors? Give a full list of what you have on the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I do not have a boost controller I’m controlling boost with waste gate only. I have the top connected to the waste gate. I don’t use the solenoids anymore I removed all the stock vacuum lines and use all new vacuum hose. I do have a wide band. The car is tuned with a custom tune on an diablosport Intune. Mods are borg Warner s256rs agp turbo kit, diablosport intune, id 1000cc injectors, Mopar stage3 Computer, ngk iridium plugs gapped at .032, Mopar spark plug wires and coil pack, mopar 3 bar sensors. Mopar cat back exhaust, act street disk clutch w/agp tob fork, Mopar stage 3 fuel rail, HKS bov agp hard pipe, ais big intercooler, aem short ram intake, 180* thermostat, ported throttle body, all 4 new solid engine mounts, bc coilovers, aem wideband, scan gauge, 30 psi boost gauge. I think that’s everything that should be all performance mods anyway. I don’t remember where the custom tune came from I just know it was a member on this forum.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I boost leak tested the car after an adventure trying to get it done at different gas stations. From what I can tell there is a boost leak somewhere down in no mans land by the firewall. It wouldn’t let me put in more than 9 psi and over the loud air compressor i could barely hear anything. I only have a common parking garage to keep my car in so I cannot really work on my car there. That Why I have to rely on shops to do the work. It’s a pain to because you try to tell the guy what needs to be done and he doesn’t believe you and just does whatever the hell he wants and nothing gets fixed. The car has been to like 3 different shops now and no one can do anything right because I get the car back and it’s exactly the same as before. You think the wastegate is the problem do you believe the waste gate is leaking or something. How should the wastegate be done. I had the waste gate connected to the fitting on the turbo compressor housing But decided to just run a vacuum line to it. The boost box seems good can it be run with out factory vac lines.
 

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I had a blocked cat and it was still noisy as usual.
 

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You really need to be familiar with how this system works, and a decently experienced mechanic to diagnose problems like this. You can't just run an air line to a vac port and test for boost leaks, without blocking the turbo inlet, and the intake manifold. At any given time, a cylinder may be on the exhaust/intake crossover, where both valves will be open allowing air to pass straight through the engine while it is off. I have had the most success with actually inspecting every inch of the charge plumbing from turbo to throttle body, and then test driving. After that, make sure all your small plumbing to the turbo, WG actuator, BOV, and solenoids is 100% correct, and in great shape. Lastly there is the Actuator linkage, make sure that is attached to the wastegate, with the pin in place, if you have an adjustable WG, it may need to be properly adjusted.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
I just wanted to finish up this thread by saying I fixed my problem turned out to be a clogged cat. Took the cat off kicked it in the garbage and put on a cat less downpipe. Thanks to all for helping.
 
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