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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just put S2 with toys on my car, toys arnt hooked up yet, but i cant get it to pull more than 16psi? im 1 turn from maxin the wga out and it still only hits 16psi? as fra as i can tell there arnt any lines poped off, and everything seems to be working fine but she just wont get up there. the only other thing i did to the car before the instal was add a shim to the bov maby thats the problem?

here are my other mods,
AGP bfmic
ed hard pipes
Cti charge pipe
mpp intake
3"o2/dp
mpp exhaust
ptp cv
ptp bov spring
mpp rice plate
drc 55mm tb

thanks,
-Jesse
 

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Not to say the obvious, but have you checked for boost leaks, AND that your boost gauge is accurate?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thepowertowin said:
Not to say the obvious, but have you checked for boost leaks, AND that your boost gauge is accurate?
havent checked yet for boost leaks, figured sence i didnt take anything off that was presurized it wouldnt change but ill give it a shot.

and yes the guage is working fine, or at least just like it was before the install, sits at 0psi when the car is off and at 18in of vac when idleing so guessing it works fine.

ill play with a few more things,
thanks,
-Jesse
 

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check for boost leaks, set the wga to 4mm preload, no more, no less. what was the temp when you were doing these runs?
 

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stowaway said:
check for boost leaks, set the wga to 4mm preload, no more, no less. what was the temp when you were doing these runs?
Exactly. Set the wastegate to 4mm preload and reset the PCM. Also tighten down all the clamps on your pressure pipes.

Stage 2 boost varies a lot depending on temperature. The question is how does the car feel. If it hauls ass on the freeway, there should be no problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I just finished wiring the toys everthing apears to be working fine. Still only hiting 16psi though in DAB 2&3.

I took the shim out of the bov and checked all the intercooler pipes (btw i have t-bolt clamps) i checked all the vac lines, couldnt find anything loose or obviously goofed up?

Ill try puting the wga back down to 4mm preload to see if that makes any differance.

the temp was anywhere between 60 and 75 depending on the day and the boot hit the same everytime, or within .5 of a psi anyway.

As far as how fast does it feel... no faster than it did before with s1 w/ s2wga at 17psi. I havent used HOM yet i figured thats where i would see the biggest gains. we have 110 pump so ill go get some of that tomorrow.

thanks for the help guys!
-Jesse
 

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millertime said:
I just finished wiring the toys everthing apears to be working fine. Still only hiting 16psi though in DAB 2&3.

I took the shim out of the bov and checked all the intercooler pipes (btw i have t-bolt clamps) i checked all the vac lines, couldnt find anything loose or obviously goofed up?

Ill try puting the wga back down to 4mm preload to see if that makes any differance.

the temp was anywhere between 60 and 75 depending on the day and the boot hit the same everytime, or within .5 of a psi anyway.

As far as how fast does it feel... no faster than it did before with s1 w/ s2wga at 17psi. I havent used HOM yet i figured thats where i would see the biggest gains. we have 110 pump so ill go get some of that tomorrow.

thanks for the help guys!
-Jesse
Build or buy a leak tester. Sometimes there is things the eye and hand cant find but air will show. In my case the charge pipe lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well i went and made sure the wga is at exactly 4mm of preload but i was messing with the ic sprayers so never took it out for a rip. Ill try it tomorrow and let you guys know.

thanks,
-Jesse
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well i took it out again today and only hit 15-16psi and it was 75* outside. It seems pretty quick but i guess i have nothing to base it off of. Im going to boost leak test it tomorow so will see what that brings up.

-Jesse
 

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honestly, ditch the s2 wga. i think it sucks. get an aftermarket one. i have the AGP one and it woke up my s2 quite a bit and i was able to make it work with toys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
just checked for boost leaks last night, found a few very small ones that we only found with water, other than my stock bov, it started leaking at about 13psi and was the only reall one i could find. 13psi seems kinda low to me specialy sence i have ptp's bov spring in there...

i had the wga at 4mm of preload and hit 15-16psi, then tried slowly tightening it up to 1/2 a turn from maxed and it still only hits 16psi?

maby its my boost guage?
-Jesse
 

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I ran into this problem forever on my car, check the back of the valve cover to the right (when your standing infront of it) right infront of the wastegate, if your noise suppressor is unhooked it pulls boost, same with the o2 sensors and all. If there is any signal the pcm finds incorrect from any sensors it pulls boost
 

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had a local think his agp wga wouldn't go past 15psi cause his needle would just peg it and stay. We boost leak tested it 4 months later and found he was really boosting 18psi. It sat at 0 when off and idled 18-20 in vac. like normall. check for a faulty gauge is definately a good choice. You can find a new 30/30 boost gauge for 50-60 bucks at the parts store.
A question for you is what is the boost in each DAB setting 0-3?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well i tried a new guage last night and it hit the same numbers as my old guage in each DAP setting. dap 0-8psi, 1-12psi, 2-16psi, 3-16psi. these are all at about 80*. Im running 50/50 of 93 octane, 114 octane so it souldnt be kr or anything like that.

Also both boost guages did the same thing, when it would hit 16psi it would stop and flutter very fast and drop to maby 15psi at redline? SO i cant tell wtf is wronge with the car. Im going to order a new cold side pipe with a bov to eliminate that as a problem. if that doesnt do it i guess a wga is next.

thanks,
-Jesse

thirteens420k said:
had a local think his agp wga wouldn't go past 15psi cause his needle would just peg it and stay. We boost leak tested it 4 months later and found he was really boosting 18psi. It sat at 0 when off and idled 18-20 in vac. like normall. check for a faulty gauge is definately a good choice. You can find a new 30/30 boost gauge for 50-60 bucks at the parts store.
A question for you is what is the boost in each DAB setting 0-3?
 

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millertime said:
Well i tried a new guage last night and it hit the same numbers as my old guage in each DAP setting. dap 0-8psi, 1-12psi, 2-16psi, 3-16psi. these are all at about 80*. Im running 50/50 of 93 octane, 114 octane so it souldnt be kr or anything like that.

Also both boost guages did the same thing, when it would hit 16psi it would stop and flutter very fast and drop to maby 15psi at redline? SO i cant tell wtf is wronge with the car. Im going to order a new cold side pipe with a bov to eliminate that as a problem. if that doesnt do it i guess a wga is next.

thanks,
-Jesse

thirteens420k said:
had a local think his agp wga wouldn't go past 15psi cause his needle would just peg it and stay. We boost leak tested it 4 months later and found he was really boosting 18psi. It sat at 0 when off and idled 18-20 in vac. like normall. check for a faulty gauge is definately a good choice. You can find a new 30/30 boost gauge for 50-60 bucks at the parts store.
A question for you is what is the boost in each DAB setting 0-3?

LISTEN TO ME. I had this problem, i fought with the car FOREVER, DONT GO THROW MORE BOOST AT IT WHEN THE PCM SEES A PROBLEM. I would never boost over 15, no spike, nothing. Follow all your wires to your sensors, SOMETHING IS SHORTING OUT. If you throw more boost at it your going to start running lean, My noise suppressor was shorting on the block, i would only boost 15, i threw more boost at it, ran like that for 3 weeks, no wideband (i was stupid), the car started tripping the auto shutdown relay and i almost blew the motor. a new WGA is not going to fix the $.30 problem, its only going to cover it up and cause more
 

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S10jimmi said:
millertime said:
Well i tried a new guage last night and it hit the same numbers as my old guage in each DAP setting. dap 0-8psi, 1-12psi, 2-16psi, 3-16psi. these are all at about 80*. Im running 50/50 of 93 octane, 114 octane so it souldnt be kr or anything like that.

Also both boost guages did the same thing, when it would hit 16psi it would stop and flutter very fast and drop to maby 15psi at redline? SO i cant tell wtf is wronge with the car. Im going to order a new cold side pipe with a bov to eliminate that as a problem. if that doesnt do it i guess a wga is next.

thanks,
-Jesse

thirteens420k said:
had a local think his agp wga wouldn't go past 15psi cause his needle would just peg it and stay. We boost leak tested it 4 months later and found he was really boosting 18psi. It sat at 0 when off and idled 18-20 in vac. like normall. check for a faulty gauge is definately a good choice. You can find a new 30/30 boost gauge for 50-60 bucks at the parts store.
A question for you is what is the boost in each DAB setting 0-3?

LISTEN TO ME. I had this problem, i fought with the car FOREVER, DONT GO THROW MORE BOOST AT IT WHEN THE PCM SEES A PROBLEM. I would never boost over 15, no spike, nothing. Follow all your wires to your sensors, SOMETHING IS SHORTING OUT. If you throw more boost at it your going to start running lean, My noise suppressor was shorting on the block, i would only boost 15, i threw more boost at it, ran like that for 3 weeks, no wideband (i was stupid), the car started tripping the auto shutdown relay and i almost blew the motor. a new WGA is not going to fix the $.30 problem, its only going to cover it up and cause more
Now your starting to worry me. My stage 2 was doing the same thing never pass 15psi . Never spike past 15 it would just hit 15 and hold it. I thought it was the s2 wga wearing out. So I threw on a FM wga and the car feels faster than it ever has. 18-19 spike and 16-17 hold. My air fuel is reading 11.2 on my wideband. The new wga has only been on the car for 3 days though. So I'm not sure if it will change. I will add that when I first installed stage 2 it used to spike 18 and hold 16 psi. Thats why I thought the waist gate was wearing out. Because it did work good for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Double J said:
S10jimmi said:
millertime said:
Well i tried a new guage last night and it hit the same numbers as my old guage in each DAP setting. dap 0-8psi, 1-12psi, 2-16psi, 3-16psi. these are all at about 80*. Im running 50/50 of 93 octane, 114 octane so it souldnt be kr or anything like that.

Also both boost guages did the same thing, when it would hit 16psi it would stop and flutter very fast and drop to maby 15psi at redline? SO i cant tell wtf is wronge with the car. Im going to order a new cold side pipe with a bov to eliminate that as a problem. if that doesnt do it i guess a wga is next.

thanks,
-Jesse

thirteens420k said:
had a local think his agp wga wouldn't go past 15psi cause his needle would just peg it and stay. We boost leak tested it 4 months later and found he was really boosting 18psi. It sat at 0 when off and idled 18-20 in vac. like normall. check for a faulty gauge is definately a good choice. You can find a new 30/30 boost gauge for 50-60 bucks at the parts store.
A question for you is what is the boost in each DAB setting 0-3?

LISTEN TO ME. I had this problem, i fought with the car FOREVER, DONT GO THROW MORE BOOST AT IT WHEN THE PCM SEES A PROBLEM. I would never boost over 15, no spike, nothing. Follow all your wires to your sensors, SOMETHING IS SHORTING OUT. If you throw more boost at it your going to start running lean, My noise suppressor was shorting on the block, i would only boost 15, i threw more boost at it, ran like that for 3 weeks, no wideband (i was stupid), the car started tripping the auto shutdown relay and i almost blew the motor. a new WGA is not going to fix the $.30 problem, its only going to cover it up and cause more
Now your starting to worry me. My stage 2 was doing the same thing never pass 15psi . Never spike past 15 it would just hit 15 and hold it. I thought it was the s2 wga wearing out. So I threw on a FM wga and the car feels faster than it ever has. 18-19 spike and 16-17 hold. My air fuel is reading 11.2 on my wideband. The new wga has only been on the car for 3 days though. So I'm not sure if it will change. I will add that when I first installed stage 2 it used to spike 18 and hold 16 psi. Thats why I thought the waist gate was wearing out. Because it did work good for a while.
I had my s2 wga hitting 18psi just fine last year with my s1, but this year after i stalled the rest of my s2 it just wont go any higher. Im going to start with a aftermarket bov, if that doesnt work then by by s2 wga. I checked all my lines, boost leak tested it, checked all the wireing for shorts or problems, no check eng codes or light, i mean really there cant be that many things left to check.

Ill let you guys know what putting an aftermarket bov on does for me.
thanks,
-Jesse
 

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Double J said:
S10jimmi said:
millertime said:
Well i tried a new guage last night and it hit the same numbers as my old guage in each DAP setting. dap 0-8psi, 1-12psi, 2-16psi, 3-16psi. these are all at about 80*. Im running 50/50 of 93 octane, 114 octane so it souldnt be kr or anything like that.

Also both boost guages did the same thing, when it would hit 16psi it would stop and flutter very fast and drop to maby 15psi at redline? SO i cant tell wtf is wronge with the car. Im going to order a new cold side pipe with a bov to eliminate that as a problem. if that doesnt do it i guess a wga is next.

thanks,
-Jesse

thirteens420k said:
had a local think his agp wga wouldn't go past 15psi cause his needle would just peg it and stay. We boost leak tested it 4 months later and found he was really boosting 18psi. It sat at 0 when off and idled 18-20 in vac. like normall. check for a faulty gauge is definately a good choice. You can find a new 30/30 boost gauge for 50-60 bucks at the parts store.
A question for you is what is the boost in each DAB setting 0-3?

LISTEN TO ME. I had this problem, i fought with the car FOREVER, DONT GO THROW MORE BOOST AT IT WHEN THE PCM SEES A PROBLEM. I would never boost over 15, no spike, nothing. Follow all your wires to your sensors, SOMETHING IS SHORTING OUT. If you throw more boost at it your going to start running lean, My noise suppressor was shorting on the block, i would only boost 15, i threw more boost at it, ran like that for 3 weeks, no wideband (i was stupid), the car started tripping the auto shutdown relay and i almost blew the motor. a new WGA is not going to fix the $.30 problem, its only going to cover it up and cause more
Now your starting to worry me. My stage 2 was doing the same thing never pass 15psi . Never spike past 15 it would just hit 15 and hold it. I thought it was the s2 wga wearing out. So I threw on a FM wga and the car feels faster than it ever has. 18-19 spike and 16-17 hold. My air fuel is reading 11.2 on my wideband. The new wga has only been on the car for 3 days though. So I'm not sure if it will change. I will add that when I first installed stage 2 it used to spike 18 and hold 16 psi. Thats why I thought the waist gate was wearing out. Because it did work good for a while.
thats exactly what im talkign about, your at 11.2 a/f which sounds good, but your pcm is FREAKING OUT. At 20psi my wideband on my s2 is at 10.0 (pig fucking rich). Check your sensors, because even though the s2 is picky, it does it for a reason. I would look at the noise suppressor and your upper 02 sensor for any wires that have the insulation rubbed off, also check any injector wires and other orange and green wires. Mine did that for about a month before the car started turning off on me, kept blowing fuse 21 (auto shutdown relay) thats when i realised covering up the problem was bad. I spent about 4 hours piss ass drunk wire hunting and sure enough, the sensor (when standing infront of the car, looking at the engine) the sensor was at the base of the valve cover on the back right right infront of the wastegate, and the wire running to it had become stripped and freyed after changing wastegate/bov/vacuum lines and shit over and over. My plugs were paper white, car was running faster, but egt's were through the roof, it started knocking, it was causing big problems. The sensor clears up electrical static in the system being as the signals are being sent to the injectors. The problem this can lead to is injector firing at different rates, where through one firing of all 4 cylinders 1 may be lean and hte other 3 would be rich, and the next firing of the cylinders 3 will be lean and 1 will be rich ect.
 

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I'm going to be getting a scan gauge pritty soon. So hopefully it will help me find out if something is wrong with the car or not. But right now the car feels as strong as it ever has with this new wga. I'll check out that sensor though. Thanks for the info.
 
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