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Hey everyone, i know this is a newb question, but how should i run my vac lines so that i dont need the ugly solenoids anymore? I have an a/m bov that i am using the t/b vac line on, and green lined the agp wga
any suggestions?
 

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remove them all.. Run from the turbo to the wga, and from the throttle body to the bov... I haven't had any stock lines for 1 year plus, 0 issues, 19 psi, 15 to redline.

will post picture tommorow
 

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damn, totally forgot about this.. will take pics tommorow, I promise!
 

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we're gonna hold you to that! hahahaha i appreciate it man.. so you havent had any problems? is there anyone else out there that has done this that you know of?
 

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Yeah I would like to know how to run everything as well. I have an HKS SSQV so I'm T'ed into the throttle body, and I have an aftermarket WGA so the green line is removed, and one of the black lines is removed. What to do with the blue, pink (capped), red, and white line.
 

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It will have to wait until after the rain stops.
 

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ok, the pics aren't too great because I didn't remove anything this time







If you read this before I post an explanation, just hold tight.
 

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Now, this can be done on a Stage 1, with WGA and aftermarket BOV like the HKS SSQV

Ok, the first picture shows the line that I ran from the throttle body to the BOV (yes, I reused the stock lines, yes I know they're very restrictive, no I've never had any issues, and no, I don't have any boost leaks... yet)

The second one shows where the white line ( i think, it's been a long time since I had the stock solenoids) used to goto. Remove and cap it.

The third pic is just a close up of the lines that come off the throttle body
The 'check valve' is a green piece in the middle of the line underneath the intake pipe, between the battery and the block. There are a couple lines that come off of that, one goes to the turbo, and the other goes to the emissions, I left that. Off the turbo, towards the back of the car is a nipple where you hook up the wga to. You can put a boost controller inline with that vaccum hose too.
 

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ive done this, got my directions from a Toledan, works great, l3it3r is not crazy or trying to make you esplode your car....
 

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hey greg, what size vaccum line u using? and we should have done that saturday damnit lol...
 

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im using whatever size fits over the hard vaccum line... i forgot the specific size. its not too hard i can PM you the directions...
 

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I need to goto advance and get new lines.. there's a mom&pop place that probably has them for cheaper though now that I think about it
 

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i am gonna go ahead and subscribe to this little mod.. i think that the map has everything to do with how much fuel is put in the engine, i think that doing this will also get rid of my p0234 code! gonna give it a shot tomorrow, will let you all know how it works out..

hey greg, you said that you got your info from toledan, is there another more in depth detailed picture thread about this? i want to do it perfect.. also what lines should i use? fuel line or something? larger diameter than stock? hmm. what exactly does the tip do btw? regulate boost or fuel or what?
 

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Doing this to you vaccum lines stripps the computer of the ablility to bleed boost off. (ex: put on an AGP WGA and tune it to 18 psi, a week later your only running 15 psi, either you can keep re-setting the computer whenever your boost goes down or you can do this mod.)

all you need is regular bumper to bumper or similar vaccum line that fits properly over the nipples on the colored hard plastic lines. You dont need that much even, but ill post up the directions.


re-reading these directions, i knowticed that these are tailored to my mods, (aftermarket BOV, s1, aftermarket WGA) so if you have those, go for it and if you dont, tread at your own risk. (i think you need s1, because stock and s2 needs the TIP sensor hooked up)




mprtklr said:
step one which i thing you have already done but here it is again. run the green line from the back of the turbo to the wga, using two rubber parts already found on the green and black lines. after done it will look like this:



after you have done that look at the stock solenoid bundle and remove the green and black lines from the solenoid. not sure what number that one is anymore but it should be empty now.


ok because you have a aftermarket bov we can do this as well. take the big bunch of crap lines off of the side of the turbo, it has the blue line and a couple of t's. then remove the blue line and pink line from the solenoid. in there as well one of those lines your removing should run to the check valve from the evap canister. remove that as well. then run a vaccum line of your own from the side of the turbo to the check valve. here is a pic of that.





n this first pic you can see under the inlet on the turbo i had it capped, well i found out that is no longer neccessary so you run a line from there to the check valve which i will show you next.





as you can see i had the check valve (thing with two green rings around it) capped as well that is not neccessary. so you are running a line from the turbo to the top of the check valve. on to the next step.

ok now on to the tb area. there is a spot where the vaccum lines come in to a boot just above the throttle body. remove that boot and disconnect everything from it. no just run a line from the check valve where it was all the way to where the boot was, then just t into that for your bov source. here is a couple of pics.








now remove what ever used to be t'd into that line that you removed and remove those lines from the solenoid as well.

next step.

remove the red line from the cold pipe and cap the nipple on the cold pipe. remember to cap it as tight as possible and zip tie it. check this often to make sure it doesnt blow off. here is a pic.





of course the sensor in the pipe was removed to take that picture. now also remove the white line from your tip sensor mounted just above the wheel well on the drivers side. here is a pic of the sensor without the line.






ok now remove the red and white lines from the solenoid. now on to the last pm.

ok now your solenoid plugs #'s 1, 2, and 3 should be all empty of vaccum lines. if so you are all done there. now all you should have left for vaccum lines is: one running from the back of the turbo to the wga, and one running from the firewall (existing) to a check valve, one running from the turbo under the inlet to the top of that same check valve, and one running from that same valve to above the tb. then of course your bov should be t'd into that line between your check valve and tb.

now make sure to do two things, zip tie everything everywhere, and reset the ecu. reset the ecu twice if you have to. sometime it helps to just make sure its reset to unhook the battery, get in the car, hold down the brake pedal for 10 sec., then go hook the battery back up.

later

John K
later

Greg M
 

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nice.. I need to get new lines soon.. stockers just don't cut it anymore
 

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holy shit dude thanks so much! that is an awesome write up.. i really wanna do this now, except for the s1 part haha.. is anyone sure that the s0 ecu needs the tip? what will it just throw a code or not run right or what? great pics man thanks. really simplified everything.
 

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I am confused about this part ...

"one running from the turbo under the inlet to the top of that same check valve, and one running from that same valve to above the tb"

I have the nipple under the inlet on the turbo capped, does this mean I should run a line from there to the top of the check valve under the intake, and does it make any difference? By the pictures it looked like it is capped as well... I followed these instructions when I redid my vacuum lines..

http://www.srtforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=214755
 

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I just recently bought my SRT-4 and it seems the previous owner had plenty of aftermarket parts but took them with him before he sold it. I dont have any solenoids or vac lines. I still have the BOV and i figure ill just upgrade the WGA. I am also only boosting like 5 PSI. I was wondering if this is because of the lack of wiring or more likely a boost leak. Also if you remove all the solenoids is your PCM doing anything? I thought the pcm ran to the solenoids and the solenoids wired to the other components. I know im a n00b but if you could break it down real simple-like id appreciate it.
 
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