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As the title says. A quick reseat of the appropriate fuse fixed it. Fumble fingers on the assembly line, I guess.
 

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Coz you guys rushed them tooooo much.! :lol:


I want my SRT-4 NOW! :evil:


:lol:
 

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You'll wait and like it just like everyone else. Now, get back in line and the line starts behind me. :lol: :lol:

I'll make sure to check all my fuses before leaving the dealership. Thanks.
 

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Weak Alternator

Same problems I had experience with my Swift GT and there 55amp alternator. After loading in a 800 watt total - dual amp (front and back), it severily killed the car electrical system.

Now I had added a new compete stereo and removed the lame one, it is doing the same - lights flickering and so forth.

I swear, don't the manufacture know that a 130amp alternator would provide more or able power for those owners who wish to upgrade the stereo system.

I am in the process of removing the old MOAPR battery and placing a deep cycle version to see what happens to the lights before continuing in building a better bass sound for the car.
 

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yeah but the thing has 130 (or is it 160) amp alt, you shouldnt really need a cap... are you sure you have big enough wiring and everything? (im sure you do but ya know, gotta ask!)

i find it very odd that with a huge alt that the srt has that you're getting any sort of dimming. but yeah a cap might help
 

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NeonWaSp said:
yeah but the thing has 130 (or is it 160) amp alt, you shouldnt really need a cap... are you sure you have big enough wiring and everything? (im sure you do but ya know, gotta ask!)

i find it very odd that with a huge alt that the srt has that you're getting any sort of dimming. but yeah a cap might help
It was professionally installed. Put this way, even the Porche dealer (same time as the Dodge delivered my car) brought over a 250K GTS-2 Porche for a 25K stereo system. Yes! I could made a killing if I was a "GONE IN 60 SECOND CROOK". LOL

Soon-as- the computer (home) is up and running, I will take some pics.
 

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The SRT does come with a 160 amp alternator, just checked my build list.
 

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Wow, so you only have 800 watts running and your lights dim badly still? With a 160 amp alternator you SHOULD be totally fine unless you amps are very inefficient (what amps you running?) or something. If your running 800 watts you should only be drawing around 70 amps of current when you have it cranked. Shouldn't be a problem. I had two class d amps in my 99 Neon running 3000 watts and my lights would dim but my voltage would only drop to like 11.2 at the lowest and 1st gen neons had a diehard gold battery and a 90 amp alt, lol. Get a nice Diehard Gold if you plan on getting a battery, those are tanks for batteries, trust me! And BTW, a cap isn't going to help whatsoever, they're useless. I had a 2.4 farad for mine, disconnected it, same performance as before, no difference whatsoever. But they're nice for a Dist cap and a voltage reader, only reason I had one.
 

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While the alternator may be producing enough current to supply your amps, I doubt the battery can 'dump' fast enough to your amps to prevent a drop in voltage in the rest of your electrical system.

A capacitor can 'dump' it's charge faster than a battery can (a good power cap can dump it's entire charge in a few seconds, athough it's not a wise idea to short circuit a fully charged power cap). When placed right next to your amp (electrically) with some 8 or 4 gauge wire, the cap should stop the lights from dimming.

Typically you want 1 Farad (1,000,000 uf) for every 1,000 watts.

Be sure to use 8 gauge cable (up to 500W) and 4 gauge cable (up to ~1,000 watts). Also, be sure to use a dedicated ground cable directly from the battery. Don't rely on your chassis to be as good of a conductor as copper :). For the rest of your car, try running some 8 gauge wires directly from the negative post on your battery to the chassis (a nice, heavy 1.5" grounding braid works, and looks badass too) :)
 
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