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Discussion Starter #1
As far as CELs go what about putting 12ohm resistors on the stock ECU injector lines? Would they need to be a high wattage type (how high?)?

Also, I think I caught a glimpse of a thread at one point about running full sequential on the Tec3r using the stock cam sensor. Does anyone know more about this?
tia
wasp
 

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you dont need full sequencial, the crank trigger resolution is good enough. unless you want staged in jectors then dont bother. also, not sure if you know, but with the tec3 it has its own error codes and you wire in the led for it or read htem on your laptop
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yeah i know about the error codes. i figured if i could avoid the dinging and blinking engine light with the use of some resistors why not. i know the stock ecu codes dont hurt anything dont get me wrong i'm simply stating that if i can avoid the dinging and blinking with a few resistors why not. so can anyone shed any light on that one?

i've heard nemo knows but something tells me he wont speak up.
 

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power = volts^2 / resistance

13V ^ 2 / 12ohms = 14 watts

Most resistors are sold in 1/4W, 1/2W, 1W. You'll need some real beefy resistors to handle the load needed to simulate an injector. It can be done though.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
so if not using the stock cam magnet and keeping the stock ECU in place to run the gauge cluster can the stock ECU still determine RPM or does the ECU need both crank AND cam signals to determine RPM?
 

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Bunch of stuff:

First off I have a strong feeling you will end up with a check engine light because the PCM really monitors A LOT of stuff, not just injectors.

Secondly putting just resistors inline will not work... The NGC PCM looks for inductive flyback when it closes the injector (BTW kudos on this idea dodge... very clever!), thus a basic resistive load will not work.


You probably could get away with buying some cheapy stock injectors from someone (ill bet you can get some 03 injectors for almost nothing), and just leaving them plugged into the stock wiring. That will at least give you the electrical signature of the injectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
yeah i thought about swapping in some older injectors (s1 or stock) but is the wiring hassle more or less than the dinging/blinking light? tough call. Other than the injectors and solenoid I can't think of any other codes it would throw (plus cam sensor...see below).

so the next step is changing the stock cam magnet to something more tec3 compatible since as best i can tell the stock ECU really only needs the CRANK for RPM. too bad the stock cam magnet has so much resolution that normal standalones cant work with it.
 

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NeonWaSp said:
yeah i thought about swapping in some older injectors (s1 or stock) but is the wiring hassle more or less than the dinging/blinking light? tough call. Other than the injectors and solenoid I can't think of any other codes it would throw (plus cam sensor...see below).

so the next step is changing the stock cam magnet to something more tec3 compatible since as best i can tell the stock ECU really only needs the CRANK for RPM. too bad the stock cam magnet has so much resolution that normal standalones cant work with it.
Yea i mean basically you will just throw a check engine light but since the tec is in control it really wont matter what the PCM trys to do (besides turn on the light). Take a look in the FSM for all the codes the PCM can throw. It can throw AT LEAST one code per sensor. Such as iat, aat, coolant temp, map, tip, all the solenoids, crank sensor, cam sensor, speed sensor, etc. etc. It really wants everything to be there and working pretty close to normal not to throw a light on you. Which is why I say it will be tough. Personally I would say remove the light from the dash for the CE light and wire in a new CE LED which is controlled by the Tec. Quick and easy :)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
For the IAT, ECT, and VSS i've only tapped the return wires. The stock crank stays in place to run the gauge cluster (rpm). The solenoids I've heard can be tricked with just a resistor (less wires, less junk in the engine bay, hence remove). Stock map stays in place (I see no reason to remove) however I'm now taking the TIP out (since i can't easily avoid engine codes to hell with the TIP its coming out ). AAT will prolly be removed for the same reason as the TIP. The cam sensor is gonna stay in place but I'll be replacing the trigger with something more TEC3 friendly. Like i said, i know the stock ecu can't do anything it was just a thought to maybe avoid a blinking light and a dinging noise every time the car is started ( i know its minor, but hey, what the hell).
any other tips you have feel free to let me know thanks!

WhatsADSM said:
Yea i mean basically you will just throw a check engine light but since the tec is in control it really wont matter what the PCM trys to do (besides turn on the light). Take a look in the FSM for all the codes the PCM can throw. It can throw AT LEAST one code per sensor. Such as iat, aat, coolant temp, map, tip, all the solenoids, crank sensor, cam sensor, speed sensor, etc. etc. It really wants everything to be there and working pretty close to normal not to throw a light on you. Which is why I say it will be tough. Personally I would say remove the light from the dash for the CE light and wire in a new CE LED which is controlled by the Tec. Quick and easy :)
 
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