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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
http://www.hidexpress.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2

So, this is what i'm looking at getting, but what I need to know is if the bulbs burn out, do I replace the conversion kit entirely, or do I replace the bulbs themselves? Now your probably thinking,"What a stupid question"but I'm in doubt because of this statement....."Xetronic HID Xenon bulbs are upgrades for any vehicle with factory HID headlights." But since conversion kit wouldn't be considered factory HID lights, I'm wondering if I'd have to replace the entire conversion kit.

Any help would be appreciated.
 

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well to be honest with you the kits blubs(well my kits blubs) have a five year warentee on them so if i have ne problems i just give them a call and they send me some new ones ....i got the brightstar hid kit 8000k looks beautiful i have had more comps about the lights then ne thing
 

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That company is funny.

First of all, they do not even sell the brightest hid bulb available, 4100k. They only sell 6000 8000 and 10000, which is dim, dimmer and dimmest.

A 4100k bulb outputs roughly 3200lumens, whereas a 6000k bulb emmits 2800lumens, or 13% less light output.

Secondly, who produces those bulbs? Are they created by an OEM company that is ISO certified, or are they just come cheap chinese bulbs that have an increasing blue tint on the bulbs surface to obtain a higher bulb temperature. One of the problems with blue dipped bulbs is there are no regulations as to how well the coatings are applied, and in more than one occasion on other boards I have seen people complain about color variences between the left side and the right side.

Third, who produced those ballasts? It appears they are useing an inferior ballast/igniter dual system vs the industry standard Philips LVQ212 ballasts.

hidexpress makes no claims of useing OEM equipment, be it a standard Philips or Osram d2s bulb, or the LVQ212 ballasts, nor do they provide a relay wiring harness to draw power from the battery, since each ballast strikes at ten thousand volts upon startup, do you really want that much current going through your factory headlamp wiring and switch. I suppose if you like replacing those components then yeah ;)

To anyone looking for hid equipment, I would strongly suggest going over and reading through some automotive lighting forums and FAQ's:

http://faq.auto.light.tripod.com/

http://www.autooptiks.com/relay.html

http://forums.lighting.philips.com/viewforum.php?f=5

and also read through www.hid-online.com , as they offer the most superior HID retrofit kits available today. The man who heads the site, Nick Cottiss, has worked with Philips over 15 years ago to develop with them what is now automotive HID technology. It was first created for world rally automobiles, and funny enough they used a 6000k bulb, but soon realized its lighting property in inclement weathers such as rain and snow were poor as the light would be "absorbed" if you will by the water on the ground and the rain comming down. They switched to 4100k which not only cuts through poor weather better but it also emits 13% more light.
 

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Well your right on this info. Although I have to say that cheap kits work fine many times and for the price they will "get the job done" most of the time. A brand name phillips kit with true 6k ultinons is going to set you back about 500 most of the time. A cheap misterjung and others kit will only set you back 300. Thats a big difference and the cheap kits have also worked fine for me.

if you have the money then I'd say go for the quality but if not then you will probably do fine with a cheap kit as well. Its just for peace of mind really. Just dont get some crazy 10,000k+ kit. They look and perform terrible.

Right anything over say 7 or 8k is really a waste, your just putting fugly dark greenish purpleish light down on the road and you can't see much. My 6k ultinon hid fogs are brighter than my 7k heads.
 

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anything over 6000k is a waste, I'll agree with that, but saying it gets more green is not true, it becomes more of a blue color. It is impossible for it to become green. The further below 4100k you go the more yellow it gets, and the further past 4100k the more blue it gets, and lets remember back to kindergarden now which two colors put together make green....
 

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I8URVR6 said:
anything over 6000k is a waste, I'll agree with that, but saying it gets more green is not true, it becomes more of a blue color. It is impossible for it to become green. The further below 4100k you go the more yellow it gets, and the further past 4100k the more blue it gets, and lets remember back to kindergarden now which two colors put together make green....
Oh geez now lets argue over colors, man get real. I've seem some ebay 10K plus kits and they are ugly dark greenish crap. Yeah in the fantasy world your right the higher the k the darker the color. But in the real world those 10K plus kits are FAR from accurate. They just label it 15k because they think it will sell more, sadly it probably does.

I'll say this I have a misterjung 7k kit, a phillips 6k ultinon kit from japan, and a phillips 4100k kit. The colors in the pics from misterjung.com are accurate.

here are some "greenish" hid's. Since you didnt know about those. Talk about a headache!!




 

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