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I was reading on the forums and found that a pcv+check valve should never be used. "You should never, ever never, never, ever run a check valve in conjunction with the factory PCV" quoting [email protected] I have a ptp check valve that i've been running for about 20k miles with the stock pcv. Is there anyway to take out the stock pcv valve(which is a check valve) and run the ptp check valve? or should I just stick to the stock pcv?
-Kevin
 

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I was reading on the forums and found that a pcv+check valve should never be used. "You should never, ever never, never, ever run a check valve in conjunction with the factory PCV" quoting [email protected] I have a ptp check valve that i've been running for about 20k miles with the stock pcv. Is there anyway to take out the stock pcv valve(which is a check valve) and run the ptp check valve? or should I just stick to the stock pcv?
-Kevin
You can gut out the stock PCV valve.
 

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Huh, I have never heard this. I have been running mine for the last 50,000 miles. PCV+Bwoody (in between the catch can and the TB).

I don't see why he would say this.

A PCV valve is a check valve. Literally. Take it out, and try to blow in it. You shouldn't be able too. (some air will leak, that's why you run a check valve). Same thing with a check valve. Blow in the check valve (the right direction of course) and no air should go through.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but a PCV Valve, and a Check Valve, are LITERALLY the same thing, except this has a 90 degree bend on the top of it.
 

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The PCV valve is a very poor excuse for a check valve. Pull yours out, and blow as hard as you can blow into that. Thats only like 3psi. I bet you can hear/feel it leak past. Now do the same to a good check valve.
 

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maybe if you put the check valve flowing towards the pcv it would be bad. but when its in line and flowing the same direction I cant see how there would be a problem.
 

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Wow, this discussion again.. Let the stock pcv valve do its job and the boomba or whatever other check valve protect the catch can and stock pcv valve from boost.. I'm running both with no problems.. Boost pressure never hits the can or the pcv.. Why would you gut the stock pcv..? Some people think that high boost will make the pcv blow into pieces, so why not protect it with a check valve..?
 

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Wow, this discussion again.. Let the stock pcv valve do its job and the boomba or whatever other check valve protect the catch can and stock pcv valve from boost.. I'm running both with no problems.. Boost pressure never hits the can or the pcv.. Why would you gut the stock pcv..? Some people think that high boost will make the pcv blow into pieces, so why not protect it with a check valve..?
The reason why they say not to use both simultaneously is because it increases craking pressure (pressure (or vaccum) it takes to open the valve).

I'm currently running both but my POS PCS is probably stuck open anyway. It never worked, even brand new.
 

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You can gut out the stock PCV valve.
this isn't the correct way to run it. crank case pressure under vac needs to be regulated from the PCV, the check valve is just a more efficient way of stopping air from coming in under full load, because the vac is then taken from the other side of the valve cover.
 

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Old thread I know. But my car has been smoking and I am guessing its related to the PCV valve maybe. It smoked last year for a bit. Then stopped. Only happened at idle. White smoke. No sweet smell to it. What I did to try to fix it then:

I ended up putting a new PCV valve in. Other one seemed fine but did any how.
Got rid of my PTP checkvalve and put my old Nissan brake booster check valve in. (Its a one way check valve I ran it on my old silver s3 srt-4 car with no issues ever)
Put a new oil drain tube from AGP on. Car had this red silicone one that sweated oil and the clamps just clamped right through it where the silicone would squeeze out haha (AGP journal bearing 50 trim)

Didn't have any issues after that with the car smoking. I would smell burning oil every once in a while but that soon went away. Car seemed fine for a good amount of time I want to say a full year or so....

Well fast forward to today. I went for a drive to run some errands. Got car up to temp and all that. Had a lifted 2017/2018 F150 that kept inching forward at this red light. Well he got into it as did I once it hit green. I started to pull on him pretty good once I got into 2nd gear. :p Car wasn't smoking at this point. Got onto the cloverleaf and was going pretty quickly around that, then off to the interstate with a nice 3rd gear pull to redline. That was it. Car seemed fine. I rarely drive my car hard but I felt I wanted to open it up a bit for once and make sure AFR's and boost leavels were in check. Well I got off on my exit about 5 miles down the road and my car was smoking pretty bad, haha! White smoke like crazy. Ran my errand and went back home. Car seem to only smoke at idle but it smoked a bit under light acceleration. Once I hit the interstate it didn't seem to smoke, well I didn't see any smoke out of the exhaust, maybe due to the speed of going 75mph. Here is a video when I pulled it in my garage. Man it stunk!

https://i.imgur.com/347dwlQ.mp4

So I took my PCV valve off and noticed two very very little pieces of plastic sitting on my valve cover baffle. So I took those out. Inspected my PCV valve and shook it. Seemed fine.... Emptied out my oil catch can. (Bwoody) Wasn't too full at all. Then I took the factory PCV valve line off and noticed the creases...




Hard to tell in the photos but there are some really thin smooshed down areas that might of been restrictive. I didn't replace it prior because I read somewhere about how the factory pcv line is the best due to being plastic and how just running a 3/8'' rubber fuel line isn't as smooth on the inside and doesn't flow air as well or something?

So what should I do at this point? I checked the oil and coolant, both looked very clean and not contaminated at all.

Just run a 3/8'' rubber line from PCV to catch can and ditch the Nissan checkvalve?

Gut the factory PCV and run the check valve? Perhaps a different one like the MPX one which is "8mm"?

Any other ideas? I mean I could have some other issues with my car too, which would suck. Like bad turbo,headgasket, piston rings, valve seals etc etc.

Just weird how it randomly just happened.
 

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So what should I do at this point?
Just run a 3/8'' rubber line from PCV to catch can and ditch the Nissan checkvalve?
I would recommend that you try a proper PCV line from NAPA.
It won't get soft and/or melt or distort or balloon like the 3/8" rubber line.
You will notice how robust it is (I had to cut mine with a hacksaw) and it will last for many years.
Mine is still perfect since installing it in 2008 to replace the mangled stock plastic PCV line.
It's more pricey than the 3/8" rubber gas line but totally worth it IMHO at about $26 for 6 feet from NAPA.

But even after all that, white smoke usually mean a coolant leak (head gasket?) somewhere...so maybe a compression check and leak down would be a good idea also.
 

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I would recommend that you try a proper PCV line from NAPA.
It won't get soft and/or melt or distort or balloon like the 3/8" rubber line.
You will notice how robust it is (I had to cut mine with a hacksaw) and it will last for many years.
Mine is still perfect since installing it in 2008 to replace the mangled stock plastic PCV line.
It's more pricey than the 3/8" rubber gas line but totally worth it IMHO at about $26 for 6 feet from NAPA.

But even after all that, white smoke usually mean a coolant leak (head gasket?) somewhere...so maybe a compression check and leak down would be a good idea also.
Never heard of a dedicated PCV line until now. Unless it was the factory high temp plastic piece.

Are you referring to this? If not any links?

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBGH312?keywordInput=pcv+line

This was the most expensive "PCV"/fuel/EEC line you could get at $2.40 a foot. ^^^

I did a compression check last time it smoked and all was good. Didn't do a leak down though. If it still smokes after getting rid of that check valve and just running a line to my bwoody catch can then to my intake manifold with no checkvalve then I have other issues. I also pulled my plugs that I just replaced a couple months ago. All looked good.
 

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Never heard of a dedicated PCV line until now. Unless it was the factory high temp plastic piece.

Are you referring to this? If not any links?

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBGH312?keywordInput=pcv+line

This was the most expensive "PCV"/fuel/EEC line you could get at $2.40 a foot. ^^^

I did a compression check last time it smoked and all was good. Didn't do a leak down though. If it still smokes after getting rid of that check valve and just running a line to my bwoody catch can then to my intake manifold with no checkvalve then I have other issues. I also pulled my plugs that I just replaced a couple months ago. All looked good.
Nope. That looks like "Fuel Hose". Go down to your NAPA store and ask for PCV hose!

SPECIFICATIONS
Centerline Length25'
Fuel Line/PCV/EEC Hose Working Pressure50 PSI
I.D. (Inches).3125 in.
I.D. (mm)8 mm
TypeBarricade Fuel Line Hose
UNSPSC40142000
VMRS Code044-001-020
Buyer's Guide
 
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