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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here it is 59,000 miles, transmission has all neutrals and won’t start/dead battery

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has crap wheels, craps tires that go flat in a week and I had to push it into my garage.It sat outside under a tree, the sunroof leaks so the interior is wet and moldy

mods that I’ve discovered are:

MPX tbe w/ catless dp
MPX 62mm tb
AGP wga
eBay FMIC
Uknown brand hard pipes with a TiAL bov
Perrin fuel rail and some sort of custom feed line
FIC 750cc injectors
DSP
DCR catch can
K&N intake
Some sort of upgraded upper/lower torque mounts
Upgraded clutch, can’t confirm what brand
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threw in a fresh battery and everything seems to work fine, engine spins freely. Has oil and coolant so I fired it up and it idles smooth and quiet. AFR on the wideband reads normal, has a CEL code for the IAT but otherwise runs ok.

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heat, A/C and power steering work fine, the bay is full of acorns and nuts and a nest shot out the exhaust. This car has been sitting for years, likely after the transmission developed 6 neutrals. Inspection sticker says 2018 from NJ

I pulled out the shift selector plate and discovered this broken tab, luckily it didn’t fall in and the shift fork tabs appear to be in good condition. So I cleaned up all the fragments and swapped in a AGP selector. After I’ll do a trans fluid flush
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The car now runs AND drives. Goes in every gear smoothly, no grinds. I’ll still do some clutch pedal and cable adjustments but for testing purposes it’s fine how it is. Very happy the fix was quick and easy


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Car runs a bit lean, and hits a wall when hitting boost.. definitely ready for a tune up. I have a hunch it isn’t tuned, and probably just had some settings changed in the dsp. Engine likes to stall unless throttle is applied going from a stop, light throttle gives a delayed response and it stumbles on its face. Mid range feels normal however.

I’ve dehumidified the interior and most of the smell is gone, I plan to strip it and wash everything thoroughly but the temps are getting cold out. The headliner is moldy looking and is sagging so that definitely needs to come out and the sunroof is stuck so I need to disassemble it before I can seal it up to prevent future water ingress. All the switches like to stick, I had to sand the pins for the window switches so get them to stop going down automatically and the sunroof switch has pins stuck in both directions so it’s constantly trying to open but is stuck.

next on my to do list:

-replace cracked hvac bezel
-oil change with mobile 1
-coolant flush
-new OEM PCV valve
-PCV check valve
-delete the catch can
-new intake, the one on it now is broken and is too low and can suck up water
-new IAT sensor
-new oil pressure switch
-new vacuum lines
-new spark plugs
-oil cooler delete
-Mopar timing belt kit
-pcm professionally tuned

Also the exterior has a horrible plasti dip job that I’ll need to strip off. Luckily the body has no rust and everything checks out underneath, no signs of crash damage.

Already looks like it’ll be in need of a complete respray, and new wheels and tires. After that it needs new brakes all around, a fluid flush, and new struts. One step at a time though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Congrats!

Did you get it cheap, I assume?

Sounds like you got a good game plan there.
Can't wait to see/follow your progress.
costed a decent amount relatively, it’s hard to find a low mileage rust free uncrashed car in the northeast unfortunately
 
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Took me a bit to get to the "plasti dip" comment, I was trying to figure out what on earth color the car was, and if it had started as silver, faded away to some weird blue, then they grafted in a portion of a quarter? Makes way more sense now.

If it had been musty/moldy on the inside due to water, it may be a good idea to pull the seats and carpet and hit them at a self spray car wash bay. Obviously vacuum everything first, then sprinkle a lot of baking soda all over, mix a mild laundry detergent 50/50 with water and spray over everything, including the baking soda, and spray everything down. Bring your spray bottle but have if full of white distilled vinegar, and spray everything down really good, then hit it again.

Repeat as necessary. Obviously the AC/heat vent work is a lot more difficult. I had to get mice smell out of one and I went through about 2 cans of lysol and even then you could still smell it a bit. I don't think musty smell will be as bad but it will probably still be a PITA.

No offense intended but that might be the worst "under 60k miles" SRT4 on the surface that I've ever seen, thankfully it's mostly neglect, hopefully the paint cleans up really nice for you.
 

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No pressure, but kbb values of these cars suck. It may greatly assist future buyer/seller appraisals if you did share.

In 2018 I purchased mine for 9k with 60000 miles and a near flawless chassis.
Wow KBB isn't reflecting anything with regard to current market value, they are literally half off of the average sale price on the SRT4 right now. To put it in perspective, they mark the Caliber and Neon SRT4 nearly identical, they aren't even close in the last year or so in value.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
No offense intended but that might be the worst "under 60k miles" SRT4 on the surface that I've ever seen, thankfully it's mostly neglect, hopefully the paint cleans up really nice for you.
I have no clue how it got neglected so badly in such a short span, I’m sure it’s had a hard life. Better for it to have been sitting the past few years as I’m sure it would’ve been driven into the ground by now. My biggest concerns are if it’s rotted and crashed and this car passes so it at least has a solid starting point. The potential is there underneath it all and of course it would’ve been nice to buy a pristine car but then I’d have to pay double and travel far to get it
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
No pressure, but kbb values of these cars suck. It may greatly assist future buyer/seller appraisals if you did share.

In 2018 I purchased mine for 9k with 60000 miles and a near flawless chassis.
KBB doesn’t know how to value older enthusiast cars, and I doubt used private sales are ever reported correctly anyway. Imo KBB is overrated and I dislike when people try to underestimate the value of our cars based off the KBB numbers. I’m sure it’s a useful tool for normal cars like a Nissan Altima but not much more
 
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KBB doesn’t know how to value older enthusiast cars, and I doubt used private sales are ever reported correctly anyway. Imo KBB is overrated and I dislike when people try to underestimate the value of our cars based off the KBB numbers. I’m sure it’s a useful tool for normal cars like a Nissan Altima but not much more
They are supposed to be using the numbers off of commercial sales, as in, dealerships, used car lets, etc. It's particularly easy to get those numbers now that it's all on the internet yet they still F it all up.
 

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Agreed on the KBB comments. I’m my humble opinion, KBB is completely useless. And that’s not because of RT’s comments that our cars should be valued higher (I completely agree they should be higher too based on what they go for).
I’ve had banks tell me my whole life that they go by NADA for blue book of cars. Not one has used or wanted to accept a KBB value when I’ve showed it to them.
Believe it or not, for me KBB has valued certain cars higher than NADA, or has had a value for a low production car when NADA acts like it doesn’t exist (2008 Mugen Si was an example back when I was going to buy one).
NADA had a picture of a Mugen model as their “Si”, yet no value listed for the Mugen and acted like it I was stupid.
I argued with them and lost. Part of that is Honda’s fault from what I remember, and how they put the name on the car title.

Anyway…I’m rambling. But bottom line is KBB sucks 😃. And I fear my ACR or CE partners have had similar experiences that I had with blue book companies looking like these more valuable / low production cars don’t exist. It’s a shame.
 

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Agreed on the KBB comments. I’m my humble opinion, KBB is completely useless. And that’s not because of RT’s comments that our cars should be valued higher (I completely agree they should be higher too based on what they go for).
I’ve had banks tell me my whole life that they go by NADA for blue book of cars. Not one has used or wanted to accept a KBB value when I’ve showed it to them.
Believe it or not, for me KBB has valued certain cars higher than NADA, or has had a value for a low production car when NADA acts like it doesn’t exist (2008 Mugen Si was an example back when I was going to buy one).
NADA had a picture of a Mugen model as their “Si”, yet no value listed for the Mugen and acted like it I was stupid.
I argued with them and lost. Part of that is Honda’s fault from what I remember, and how they put the name on the car title.

Anyway…I’m rambling. But bottom line is KBB sucks 😃. And I fear my ACR or CE partners have had similar experiences that I had with blue book companies looking like these more valuable / low production cars don’t exist. It’s a shame.
KBB has Honda's junk so deep in their mouths it's surprising they don't choke, death by JDM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
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pulled the plugs and #3 plug well looked like it had Water in it at some point. The bore also has the same dry brown rusty color to it. I cleared all the bores out with air and put a little wd40 in #3 and blew it out a few more times. Waiting on my new plugs now

I fixed all the vac lines, somehow the PO got them all backwards and was sending boost into the evap canister. He kept the solenoids hooked up but did it wrong so the car can only make wastegate spring pressure. I deleted the crappy DCR catch can and hooked up the PCV like factory and put in a check valve, and I hooked up the evap line to the intake so it always sees vacuum like it’s supposed to. Still waiting on my parts order there’s some shipping delays around this time. And it turns out the IAT sensor is back ordered from modern
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
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New plugs, IAT, PCV and oil cooler delete arrived

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Throwing in some new wires with the plugs

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New IAT and PCV are in

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The old PCV broke off, I have to pull the valve cover and see if the pieces are still in there
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
What's the purpose/reason for deleting that?
Deleting the factory oil cooler helps prevent oil from mixing with the coolant. Supposedly helps bring oil up to temp and isn’t really meant to be a cooler. Either way I don’t drive the car in extreme temps so less chance of failures.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
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