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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Post Build:
Video of first try startup IMG_1208.mp4 video by netnews - Photobucket
edit; 6/10/16 -- dynoed 453 ft-lbs & 405hp on e85, ran out of fuel.. more to come
Background:
Daily driver
Fast forward to Easter 2011, started using large amounts of oil -- no smoke
priced out a stock motor rebuild from motorworks, $4,000
Acquired a spare head ($250) and block ($500)
Searched others builds and this is the upgrade list I came up with after talking to MAP decided on
  • Mopar Top end gasket set: 60.00
  • Mopar Lower end gasket set:35.00
  • Mopar Water Pump:70.00
  • Mopar Oil Pump:89.00
  • Our crank strap bolts (ARP bolts) ~120
  • King Main/ Rod Bearings: 38.00
  • ARP head Studs: 115.00
  • Eagle Rods, H w/ upgraded ARP 2000 bolts: 299.00
  • Wiseco Pistons 8:8-1: 420.00
Feedback on MAP
communication = fair (oh it shipped, 10 days later-- still no gaskets)
price = good
shipping time = 6 weeks (paypal sent 6/9/11 gaskets received 7/20/11
If your car was DOWN like mine, I wouldn't recommend ordering from MAP


picked up a almost new southbend stage 3 clutch https://www.srtforums.com/forums/f213/hope-i-dont-regret-southbend-stage-3-clutch-612246/
slightly used struts
very used engine host and stand from craigslist

My all in ~$1500, considering i can resell my block head etc..

I found these rebuild links very helpful
https://www.srtforums.com/forums/f169/torque-spec-sheet-505635/
https://www.srtforums.com/forums/f75/how-remove-install-cylinder-head-421718/
https://www.srtforums.com/forums/f75/how-remove-engine-348916/
https://www.srtforums.com/forums/f169/wanna-build-your-own-direct-fit-strap-kit-608075/
https://www.srtforums.com/forums/f169/wanna-build-your-own-windage-tray-607397/
https://www.srtforums.com/forums/f24/crankshaft-sprocket-354735/
https://www.srtforums.com/forums/f75/how-renmove-oil-pan-622974/
https://www.srtforums.com/forums/f169/replacing-rods-pistons-motor-car-602544/index4.html
Link to my S3 w/Evo8 turbo install https://www.srtforums.com/forums/f169/my-install-s3-manifold-dcr-evo8-turbo-318192/ and muffler install https://www.srtforums.com/forums/f24/muffler-question-618698/#post9377890
https://www.srtforums.com/forums/f163/srt-4-suspension-faq-416630/
link to adding a camaro muffler to the rear exhaust section https://www.srtforums.com/forums/f24/muffler-question-618698/#post9377890
https://www.srtforums.com/forums/f169/will-re-building-my-motor-next-week-advice-605399/index7.html#post9135980

Not that i'm ever building again, but next time i would port the oil housing and go with 3 gaskets so i could run a big filter

Here are a few pictures of the build















td05hr upgrade from 16G to 20G compressor wheel




 

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nice work you got going on there
 

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Discussion Starter #4
updated first post with new pictures (pretensioner) and links for strap & windage
 

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Discussion Starter #6

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
my first post has a cut and past of the quote from MAP, could be a bundle price.. ask for chris

if you want to chat pm me your number and i'll give you a call

did you mean $520?? I'm seeing about a hundred bucks over 420 on their website, maybe I'll just have to message them on here or something!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
last weekend e-town and then red bank for guiness festival -- but most of the time hoboken
 

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While you got it apart you should remove the entire cover for the oil pickup. Did this one 2 years ago with a pair of snips and some needle nose pliers and no issues.



Then just crimp the screen down after :thumbsup:

 

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Discussion Starter #12
yea i opened it up --- needed to clean it out too, filled with metal shavings from the old motor (don't see any reason it needs to be replaced, just a good cleaning)


While you got it apart you should remove the entire cover for the oil pickup. Did this one 2 years ago with a pair of snips and some needle nose pliers and no issues.



Then just crimp the screen down after :thumbsup:

 

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Discussion Starter #14
subbba dubba scribed....

Good build so far. I guess your going for 400-450whp?
haven't dyno'd yet, but that seems about right on 93

i think the 47# wheel is my limiting factor, w/o water injection 25#'s of boost, w/WI maybe 28#'s -- and bottom end is built for more (strap etc) -- DCR respected name claims 800hp w/aluminum-6061 strap -- i made mine from steel (stronger) -- so it should be around that, doubt i could push 800-900hp w/o breaking an axle or input shaft
http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f258/new-dcr-direct-fit-6061-crank-strap-kits-594226/#post8925311
 

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Discussion Starter #16

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many moons ago i took a class where the lab involved measuring the strength of metal -- hence my thoughts of AL vs steel <given same dimension 3/4" x3/4">, here is the link http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f169/wanna-build-your-own-direct-fit-strap-kit-608075/index2.html#post9181301

besides the material, i do agree a machine bed plate has its advantages -- but with my build goals a direct fit is more than enough
Simple aluminum of course is weaker. But the stuff your supposed to use for strength, trumps steel an all aspects. Just FYI. Steel doesn't mean stronger otherwise they would use more steel on my daily toys, commercial aircraft. It's all aluminum, Ti, but mostly AL.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
sorry don't agree, per unit volume, 3/4" x3/4 steel is stronger -- read the wiki links i've posted.. or search (fwiw.. i don't claim to be an expert, but i've read a few of the spec sheets)

planes use al because its stronger per pound per dollar - if dollar wasn't an issue they would use Ti or carbon fiber, etc

bridge/skyscraper strength .. yada yada yada

Simple aluminum of course is weaker. But the stuff your supposed to use for strength, trumps steel an all aspects. Just FYI. Steel doesn't mean stronger otherwise they would use more steel on my daily toys, commercial aircraft. It's all aluminum, Ti, but mostly AL.
 

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sorry don't agree, per unit volume, 3/4" x3/4 steel is stronger -- read the wiki links i've posted.. or search (fwiw.. i don't claim to be an expert, but i've read a few of the spec sheets)

planes use al because its stronger per pound per dollar - if dollar wasn't an issue they would use Ti or carbon fiber, etc

bridge/skyscraper strength .. yada yada yada
Now your stepping into troubled waters. Anything produced within the last decade aircraft wise is over 90% AL,TI, or composite. Ti is used because of the abundance of strength per lb and it's anti magnetic characteristics. There's so much computers in a plane that those little added features keep you from becoming a lawn dart.

My babies that I work on now EMB 190's have complete hardware made of Ti for that reason. It's cost effective abd strenthover steel period, same with aircraft grade AL.

6061 AL is one of the last strengths before progressing into aircraft grade AL, they make cyclinder blocks and heads from it just for reference of strength.

And you do realize that the new bowing 787's complete fuselage is carbon fiber right?

And most school institutions do not allow wiki as a source reference because it is user produced material and easily manipulated.

Steel is old school, still used for city level cost effectiveness yes but by far not the king of the ropes anymore.

I'm assuming your just in the old school way of thinking, which has nothing wrong with it just make sure you look at the whole picture not just one.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
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