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My Stage 3 pump gas street car has always used (going on 125K miles) Mobil 1 0w-40 oil as recommended by the Extreme Light Weight (MOPAR) team all those years ago.
I don't mind changing the oil and K&N HP 2009 filter every 3K miles as it gives me an opportunity to check the rest of the car for leaks, problems etc.
Also, the Mobil 1 0w-40 is far more reasonably priced that Amsoil which can allow a longer period between changes although I'm just not comfortable with that.
But I do like the Amsoil ATF+4 which saved my bacon when my clutch was making shifting almost impossible (reverted to MOPAR ATF+4 after clutch fixed).

5,784 Posts
Figured the ET was high on those wheels. What happened to the MS3?

18 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
Woah haven't updated my thread in a while. Sorry guys i'll try to post some new stuff soon!

Figured the ET was high on those wheels. What happened to the MS3?
Air in the brake lines I believe. Had to re-bleed everything.

I want to see pics of the seats installed.

More stuff to come once I organize myself..

18 Posts
Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
Adding gauges to monitor and find any areas of concern while pushing the car.

Innovate Oil Temperature + Pressure Combo gauge
AEM AFR Wideband
AEM TruBoost (electronic boost control feature disabled)



To use the OEM NPT line with the AEM TruBoost, you need to add a 1/8" Hose Barb x 1/8" Male NPT to fit the hose attached to the gauge.


Since I was doing some wiring in the dash already, I decided to install my steering wheel too.

Momo MOD. 30 320mm flat bottom steering wheel
Momo Hub adapter
NRG quick release

The clockspring does not fit into the Momo hub (without modifications I am unable to do right now) so I had to get creative to get the horn working. Must have for taking people to Gapplebees at a 40 roll.

I chopped off the positive wire for the horn (at this connector illustrated below)

Added a 2 ohm resistor to prevent the airbag light (shoved the resistor into the pins and then taped it). Ran a coiled wire from the positive horn wire to the steering wheel.

Had an issue with it binding so tied it around the hub itself.

Steering wheel arrived in the mail.


Done! (Another angle of the setup is in the previous post).


773 Posts
The seats look great. Glad to see progress still being made.

18 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
Last season my oil temps kept hitting +290F and my coolant temps were touching +240F after 4-5 laps. So I decided resolve this cooling issue once and for all (and replaced a few old parts on the way). I pretty much added an aftermarket oil cooler and refreshed the cooling/timing system.

Parts replaced:
-Gates Water Pump
-Gates RPM Blue Timing Belt
-Gates RPM Serpentine Belts
-Coolant Reservoir (Mine was starting to melt)
-Gates Radiator Cap with safety latch
-180F Thermostat
-Mopar Coolant
-Oil filter housing (apparently the updated one has better flow)
-4th Engine Mount

Parts removed:
-OEM oil cooler and lines

Oil Cooler Parts List:
-1x Setrab Thermostatic Sandwich Plate Part # 19-SPT76-34-180-22
-1x Setrab Series 1 44 Row Oil Cooler Part # 50-144-7612
-4x Setrab M22 to -10AN Fitting Part # 22-M22AN10-SE
-2x Vibrant Performance -10AN 90 degree hose end fitting Part # 21910
-2x Vibrant Performance -10AN straight hose end fitting Part # 21010
-Vibrant braided Flex Hose size -10AN (I used about 10ft total for both send and return lines)
-HIGHLY RECOMMENDED PREREQUISITE: Oil pressure and temperature gauge. I have the Innovate MTX Digital Series Oil Pressure & Temperature 2-in-1 Gauge Part # 3913. I talk about installing this in my previous posts if you want to see how it works. Two readings in one gauge keeps it clean in the cockpit (and more room for other gauges!)

Setrab's M22 to -10AN fittings are the best. They have o-rings built into the adapters which helps seal the system without you having to crank down on any loose fittings. Highly recommend these!

Close up of the Setrab sandwich plate:

Chopped off the mounting ears of the oil cooler.

My uncle fabricated a mount for my oil cooler that attached to my aftermarket crash bar. (This is the Performance Autowerks crash bar as it seems to allow for the most adequate oil cooler mounting)

Test fitting complete. I later paint the bracket for extra protection against corrosion. The oil cooler would not clear if I didn't cut off the mounting ears.

Apparently this updated oil filter housing has more flow? So I replaced it anyways just in case.

Deleted the OEM oil cooler and joined the coolant lines together. Setrab sandwich plate installed with oil filter. Installed the fittings ONLY, to see if the 90 degree fitting was enough to clear. JUST enough room to clear the power steering cooler.

Took the fittings off and assembled the -10AN hoses. Protip: Lube the hose ends (I used white lithium grease) and the AN fittings will squeeze on the hose much easier. I highly recommend a vise with AN Vise Jaws (Vibrant Part # 20990) and a proper AN wrench.

Here are the hoses installed on the car.

I then drilled a big hole in the radiator support? and slinked the lines through that hole for a clean look. You can see where I drilled the holes in the picture below.

WARNING: Do not make the hole too small where the lines end up rubbing against the edges. The car's vibration will cut through your hose very quickly and you'll be in big trouble. After driving it a bit, inspect your hoses to make sure it isn't rubbing against anything sharp!

Bleeding/Final Check Tips:
1. Pre-fill the oil cooler as much as you can before connecting the final lines. This helps prevent sudden loss of oil pressure when you idle the car in the next step.

2. Once your oil cooler is fully assembled, keep it as low as possible (pictured below) with the fittings pointing upwards. This will allow you to burp the rest of the air out of the system.

2.1. OPTIONAL. If you want to build up oil pressure before actually starting the car (to check for leaks and to prevent your car from starting with 0 pressure) do a dry crank as if your doing a compression test. Which means disconnect your fuel relay/fuse and unplug your coil pack and turn the motor over a few times.

3. Let the car get the OIL TEMPERATURE up to operating temps. Only then will your sandwich plate open up (at 180 degrees F) and allow 100% flow into the oil cooler.

4. Once it is up to temp, turn off the car and check your oil level. Even with the additional 1.5 quarts of oil (due to the oil cooler) you will still use the dip stick as reference since this configuration prevents oil from back-flowing into the pan.

5. Top up your oil.

6. Turn on your car again and let it idle for another 10-15 minutes with the occasional blip of the throttle to spin up your oil pump.

7. Turn off the car and check oil one more time.

8. Attach your oil cooler to the car and you're done!


Final Thoughts/Results:
There are many oil cooler manufacturers out there, but the best performing (and most expensive, damn) oil cooler out there is Setrab. Used by many race teams around the world. You don't have to go with Setrab like me, but I found their design to be the most robust and practical.

So the reason I installed the oil cooler was because I was seeing oil temps of +290F. Combined with the OEM oil cooler, my oil was just heating up the coolant and making my coolant boil also. After deleting the OEM oil cooler and installing this Setrab system, I was seeing SIGNIFICANT temperature drops.

After a 12 lap session (tires and brakes started to give out!) and ambient temperature of 80F here are my results:

Before (4 laps):
Coolant: 230F
Oil: 290F

After Oil Cooler Mod (12 laps):
Coolant: 212F
Oil: 225F

Q: Thermostatic sandwich plate? Can I just use a cheap non-thermostatic one?
A: Yes. However, if you don't have warm weather all year round, its going to take a LONG time for your car to warm up initially.

Q: I race without an oil cooler and my car is fine. Why did you install one?
A: High end Red Line oil or even Diesel oil start to degrade its lubricating a chemical properties when pushed over their operating temp limitations. After speaking to a Red Line engineer, they said their oil can operate up to temps of 290F but its highly not recommended for extended use. I'd rather not roll the dice and be nice to the car, so I installed an oil cooler for peace of mind. If you're still not convinced, just change your oil often and you should be fine. If you don't run a high quality oil like Red Line, or Amsoil Diesel like me, expect your oil temp tolerances to be much lower than 290F.

Q: How much additional oil does your SRT4 take now?
A: In theory, 0.5 Liters for the 10ft of lines, and 0.9 Liters for the oil cooler itself. I did end up adding an extra 1.5 to 2 liters of oil.

Q: Do I have to route and install the oil cooler exactly like how you did it?
A: Nope. You can run it however you see fit. If you have a BFMIC then this mod is probably not for you though. I physically don't see any other way of mounting the cooler.

Q: Did your oil pressure increase after adding the oil cooler?
A: It did slightly. Which is expected. I idle at 20psi and WOT redline is +80 PSI.

Q: What oil filter do you use?
A: The stock filter size fits. If you want to use an oversized one, you'll need to buy the extender kit from Modern Performance. I personally use WIX 51516XP.

Shoot me a PM if you have any other questions!


Premium Member
4,712 Posts
sorry i do not know off the top of my head. I just recently went through and replaced a bunch of parts in the front end, so it needs an alignment. I can update you once that is complete.
EEK... its been almost 2 years and i still havent gotten that alignment... haha

18 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
EEK... its been almost 2 years and i still havent gotten that alignment... haha
Lol what?! I've been waiting for your reply for 2 years!!

Just kidding haha. Its about to come out of hibernation for the race season. Gonna put it up on jack stands and finally check out those slotted holes you were talking about. I'll be going in for an alignment shortly once I confirm that. Also bought camber bolts just in case.

Premium Member
4,712 Posts
Lol what?! I've been waiting for your reply for 2 years!!

Just kidding haha. Its about to come out of hibernation for the race season. Gonna put it up on jack stands and finally check out those slotted holes you were talking about. I'll be going in for an alignment shortly once I confirm that. Also bought camber bolts just in case.
What makes it worse is ive been daily driving the car too.... but the tires are wearing pretty good so i guess i eye balled the alignment okay...
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