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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok,

I like all the bell and whistles of the eo1 and its worth every cent!

I managed to find a good tach signal which allowed me to take advantage of the RPM off set on the eo1.

Some of us are having problems dropping boost down to 13PSIish after 4k RPM. What happens is that the EBC and MBC orifice are set acheive a certain amount of boost. Well once you go over 4krpm, the boost starts to drop. The reason is because the stock WG spring is weak.

When i set the e01 to 16psi it starts to drop down to 13psi also. But when i go into the RPM offset i am able to raise the gain after 4k rpm. What happens is that above 4k rpm, the solenoid opens more which allows you to maintain boost.

What is happening here is that above 4k rpm, the unit modulates the solenoid to say an 18psi opening to take account of the weak WG spring. So with this unit, there is no need to get a stiffer wastegate spring. YOu can utilize your stock one and hold boost up to red line all day long.

On a manual boost controller you cant do this. Once you set your manual boost controller to a certain setting, its set. It will not modulate to maintain the correct boost. YOur boost will drop down unless you upgrade the WG dashpot or plug up the stock surge valve.


The greddy eo1 is trully a great unit and with the optional harness, you can eliminate fuel cut and have the apexi AFC or emanage acommedate for the extra boost.

Happy boosting!
 

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badass now go dyno :twisted:
 

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same as you Wasp except hes gonna have to split the signal in two with a diode :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
NeonWaSp said:
oh someone liked my idea huh??? hehehe :) :)
Wasing I the one who told you to try the crank and cam sensors? :)

I did not think the cam would work though because you had to set your afc to 8cyl in order to work. I anted to leave my unit at 4cyl so i can get a good sig. IF i was to have put 8cyl then my emanage would think i have 8 injectors to control.


I do have a spring on my WG. It only boost the stock boost up to 7psi constant. It is no longer needed now though.
 

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Z1500 said:
Didn't you just say that you have another spring jerry rigged to your w/g to hold it closed?

Kevin
And I'm sure now that it is not needed, as well as AGP's upgraded wastegate actuator.
My blitz SBC ID II unit also hasa similar boost by speed feature, and I'll be getting around to doing those calibrations soon.

Cali
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Wasp,

I noticed you have the afc before a boost controller? Or did you not put it on your sig? After a boost controller next upgrade is fuel management (afc/emanage) then bigger injectors and yoru good to roll!
 

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cali said:
Z1500 said:
Didn't you just say that you have another spring jerry rigged to your w/g to hold it closed?

Kevin
And I'm sure now that it is not needed, as well as AGP's upgraded wastegate actuator.
My blitz SBC ID II unit also hasa similar boost by speed feature, and I'll be getting around to doing those calibrations soon.

Cali
You can not control a waste-gate that has blown open from the diaphragm side. Sorry guys, it doesn't matter what boost controller you use. With a ball and spring controller we can effectively shut out the pressure that the WG diaphragm sees and the waste gate will STILL blow open because the exhaust pressure exerted on the waste-gate valve is enough to lift it off its valve seat. When this is happening the only thing you could do to help from the diaphragm side is draw vacuum on it. No boost controller on the market does that, and having an RPM signal isn’t going to help.

-Nathan
 

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True but I wouldnt wanna keep the waste gate closed. Also I have the Profec B and I hold boost till redline but I also have more engine management.
 

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Youdrivewhat said:
True but I wouldnt wanna keep the waste gate closed. Also I have the Profec B and I hold boost till redline but I also have more engine management.
You also don't have a stock WG actuator that has a cracking pressure of 2psi and is fully open at 4psi.

The stock actuator sucks.

You do want to keep the WG from blowing open under exhaust pressure. It should NEVER blow open under exhaust pressure. If it does, it's not doing its job and should be replaced. The whole idea about boost control is that YOU get to control the WGA which controls turbine speed, and in turn controls boost pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
There exhaust pressure coming coming out of the manifold will eventually force open the WG arm I agree to that.

I put a spring on my arm which allows me to hold 7psi up from 4psi with the hose hooke dup directly to manifold pressure.

Now, my boost would always drop past 4000 from 15 psi down to 13psi.

WIth the spring installed, it would hold to about 4300 psi.

Now with my rpm offset, I had my controller set to 15psi and after 4k rpm, i had the rpm off set duty increased which gave me 16-17psi at red line, more than I wanted. I have to tune it some more.

I guess Ill have to take off my spring and try it again to see if it still holds. After I reconnect my intercooler hose that blew off that is. :)

Now based on what we know about turbos, we expect things to happen one way but to our surprise they dont on this car for some reason. Just like some of us though that installing a boost controller would yield less HP and only more tq by hooking it up on the srt the way we do on other cars. But as we now know, you can get great gains from a boost controller if installed different than how we do so on other cars.
 
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