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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ive been looking for a SRT-4 for a while now, I have always loved the car but could never find the right car. However I came across a beautiful what I believe to be stock 05 SRT-4 with 42k miles. It was listed for $15,000 however we have verbally agreed on $13,000. After looking around this site I do believe this is on the higher end of the market. I am willing to pay the premium for a stock car though.

I want the car to have something that is a little more fuel efficient. I currently drive a 1991 Bronco that gets 13 city 16 highway. Im just looking for general advice and if the price is way to astronomical.

There has been pretty good details kept on the maintenance of the car which shows promise to me. The only thing that concerns me is it living the first 14 years in Montana. With such low miles there is a chance that it has not seen to much inclement weather.
 

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The price seems fair to me. I noticed that it has Texas plates but you mentioned Montana... I'm confused. And not having seen too much inclement weather is a good thing, IMO. Mine sat out it's first winter in Iowa at the dealership and then saw DD use (through Indiana winters) for the first few years that I owned it but it has always been garaged (a lot of salt in the winter here) and was rustproofed by Ziebart when I first got it home from Iowa.

It does appear to be stock, although the trunk lid has been debadged (why do pics of SRT-4s for sale always show the cowl weatherstripping being loose?). And I don't see any "Honda cancer" around the rear wheel wells so that is a good sign. How does it look underneath? Rust anywhere? How does the driver's seat look- any tears in the outside bolsters? Any problems with the third gear grinding (I've read that a lot when it comes to used SRT-4s)?

Since you mentioned mileage, mine has achieved 30+ MPG highway on long trips (Stage 2 with Toys to boot).

I'm sure that others here with a lot more knowledge than I have will post up soon to answer your questions.
 

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At that mileage, if the car is mechanically solid, I wouldn't sell it for a penny less than 13k as the owner.

I personally bought mine mildly modified with 63,000 miles for $9300 18 months ago. I think better deals could be found if you're willing to shop for it.

Gas mileage is great on a stock turbo. 24/32 here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It was information that I pulled off a website. I have not yet seen the car in person but the current owner says there is no rust and no shifting issues. I have been looking over a few articles so I know what more specifically what to look for. We are meeting this weekend and If everything checks out my credit union has already approved the loan.
 

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You'll want to verify the functionality of the sun roof also, they are prone to failures. But as mentioned, a quick look over the pictures it does look all stock except for the de-badged trunk and the window tint.
 

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Look for rear end damage. The rear bumper isnt a color match, and no badges usually means repaint.

Given how INSANE people drive in San Antonio. I wouldnt discount a light rear impact.

Also, its a montana car.. look real careful for rust. it starts under the car in the seams, the rear wheel arches are particularly bad spot

I wouldn't give anyone above 10k for a neon, but im cheap.
 

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I don't see a difference in color between the body and the rear bumper but I am red-green colorblind so I could be mistaken- it's hard to tell with photos sometimes.

I think that the seller's asking price is fair.
Fair enough, Could be lighting or my phone. Painters never get these colors 100% spot on they just hope you dont see the difference. No badges on such a low mile car and no modifications makes my brain think... yeah, but why? the immediate why is repaint due to rear impact. Its worth a look under the trunk carpeting and at the rear crumple zones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You'll want to verify the functionality of the sun roof also, they are prone to failures. But as mentioned, a quick look over the pictures it does look all stock except for the de-badged trunk and the window tint.
Ahh I need to remember to check this when I get to the car. Im creating a list of things to go over with the help of these fourms and reddit
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Look for rear end damage. The rear bumper isnt a color match, and no badges usually means repaint.

Given how INSANE people drive in San Antonio. I wouldnt discount a light rear impact.

Also, its a montana car.. look real careful for rust. it starts under the car in the seams, the rear wheel arches are particularly bad spot

I wouldn't give anyone above 10k for a neon, but im cheap.

I will keep this in mind and look for anything funny on the rear end and in the seams
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'm with that. Find one at 9k and you have 4k to invest in the vehicle.
If I were to be putting money into this car I might be apprehensive. I plan on buying it to daily, cars are seen as depreciating assets but im willing to pay the premium to have a stock car with low miles and I have no intention of doing any modifications.
 

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Bottom line, this is a Neon. Yah we like to pretend it isn't, but the problem is that this was a farking crazy fast car out of the box, that means the go fast stuff like engine, transmission, suspension, and wheels are all upgraded. But the rest of the car... it's a Neon. Therefore you'll have a lot of the same problems the base Neon has with respect to a cheap economy car that was never built to last longer than 10 or 12 years, if that.

Some of the tell tale areas: (you'll need to get down underneath for these, but it's worth it to avoid a mistake, for that kind of money don't settle for any bad rust)

- From the back side, crawl underneath, lay on your back, and look up under the bumper cover to see the actual rear metal bumper itself. You can't keep that from rusting if you didn't take care of the car, it's a breeding ground for humidity and decay, if salt and snow got up in there.

- Move along the side, look under the car below the doors, there's a seam there that run from the front to the back of the car. It's another area very prone to rusting, and very difficult to hide. If you have some thin gloves like Mechanix, put on a pair and grab the seam and pull on it. Painted rusty metal will still have a lot of give and it will flake like crazy.

- The suspension parts up front were not painted well from the factory, and will likely be loaded with rust if the car was not taken care of. From the lower control arms over to the swaybar to the k-member, really hard to hide that sort of thing. The struts and especially the springs, you can replace the struts but there's not much of a reason to replace the springs, so you can also tell sometimes there.

The car that you are looking at may very well be in amazing shape. I'm in Nebraska, and aside from the very first winter I drove the car back from California, my SRT-4 has never seen snow, and rarely ever sees rain, probably two maybe three times of driving in the rain in the last 10 or 12 years. I replaced my transmission and all of my suspension bushings at the same time and was surprised to see just how much debris and wear were all over the suspension stuff up front.

The 30+ mpg comments are not exactly indicative of what most people see with mixed driving. You are going to likely sit between 21-24 mpg mixed (city/highway). It's hard to stay out of the boost. On long trips, you can see 30, but the higher the speed on the interstate, it will eat into that. 75-80mph won't get you to 30+ mpg.

There are a LOT of knowledgeable SRT4 people in Texas, maybe you can find someone to go with you to give the vehicle a once over.

Good luck with the potential purchase.
 

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Bottom line, this is a Neon. Yah we like to pretend it isn't, but the problem is that this was a farking crazy fast car out of the box, that means the go fast stuff like engine, transmission, suspension, and wheels are all upgraded. But the rest of the car... it's a Neon. Therefore you'll have a lot of the same problems the base Neon has with respect to a cheap economy car that was never built to last longer than 10 or 12 years, if that.

Some of the tell tale areas: (you'll need to get down underneath for these, but it's worth it to avoid a mistake, for that kind of money don't settle for any bad rust)

- From the back side, crawl underneath, lay on your back, and look up under the bumper cover to see the actual rear metal bumper itself. You can't keep that from rusting if you didn't take care of the car, it's a breeding ground for humidity and decay, if salt and snow got up in there.

- Move along the side, look under the car below the doors, there's a seam there that run from the front to the back of the car. It's another area very prone to rusting, and very difficult to hide. If you have some thin gloves like Mechanix, put on a pair and grab the seam and pull on it. Painted rusty metal will still have a lot of give and it will flake like crazy.

- The suspension parts up front were not painted well from the factory, and will likely be loaded with rust if the car was not taken care of. From the lower control arms over to the swaybar to the k-member, really hard to hide that sort of thing. The struts and especially the springs, you can replace the struts but there's not much of a reason to replace the springs, so you can also tell sometimes there.

The car that you are looking at may very well be in amazing shape. I'm in Nebraska, and aside from the very first winter I drove the car back from California, my SRT-4 has never seen snow, and rarely ever sees rain, probably two maybe three times of driving in the rain in the last 10 or 12 years. I replaced my transmission and all of my suspension bushings at the same time and was surprised to see just how much debris and wear were all over the suspension stuff up front.

The 30+ mpg comments are not exactly indicative of what most people see with mixed driving. You are going to likely sit between 21-24 mpg mixed (city/highway). It's hard to stay out of the boost. On long trips, you can see 30, but the higher the speed on the interstate, it will eat into that. 75-80mph won't get you to 30+ mpg.

There are a LOT of knowledgeable SRT4 people in Texas, maybe you can find someone to go with you to give the vehicle a once over.

Good luck with the potential purchase.
RT makes a great point. If you get on 10, just as you hit Houston...4 hours later Modern Performance is located right there. Lotsa knowledgeable Neon guys.

I cant say ive ever seen 30mpg. 16-18mpg yes.. I really wish mopar had put the cruise control code in the stage computers, but it didn't and ive got a heavy foot.

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
 

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RT makes a great point. If you get on 10, just as you hit Houston...4 hours later Modern Performance is located right there. Lotsa knowledgeable Neon guys.

I cant say ive ever seen 30mpg. 16-18mpg yes.. I really wish mopar had put the cruise control code in the stage computers, but it didn't and ive got a heavy foot.

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
You can go two routes and still use the factory cruise (if you install it obviously) with the stage computers. There are guys on the forum that can now program stock and stage 1 ECU to run like the 2 and 3. And I think they can also program cruise control into the stage 2 and 3 computers even with toys, but don't quote me on it. We discussed it at one point on a thread, I'll have to search when I have more time.
 

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You can go two routes and still use the factory cruise (if you install it obviously) with the stage computers. There are guys on the forum that can now program stock and stage 1 ECU to run like the 2 and 3. And I think they can also program cruise control into the stage 2 and 3 computers even with toys, but don't quote me on it. We discussed it at one point on a thread, I'll have to search when I have more time.
I think neil was doing it at one point, but i cant get my Diablo to download the factory code to send to him and have him modify it. Plus at the time it was 250.00.

The car is wired and has the cruise stuff installed..

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
 
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