RUgoinup said:
Congrats on the springs!
What was the total on the springs & installation? Any problems on the install? Any pointers/warnings for the next guys getting them? Who installed them?
Thanks!
Thank you!
I bought the springs from a local speed shop for $250. I'm sure you can get them for cheaper on the net, but I didn't want to wait. ;-)
That same shop has a mechanic, and they would've replaced the springs for me for around $500, but when I read that neonmike1 was able to install the same kit without spring compressors or special tools ( http://www.neons.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=89488 ) I decided to tackle the job myself, even though I had only replaced struts once before, and that was a long time ago.
I found this web page very helpful: http://home.hiwaay.net/~lbrewer/howtosuspension.html. It is not SRT-4 specific, but is Neon specific and the parts abouts the struts and springs were pretty much bang on, although I didn't mark things as suggested because I didn't see the point. It didn't look to me like there was any room for adjustment with the pieces I removed.
Things I learned along the way:
- Make sure the Eibach logo on the springs is right side up.
- Be sure to properly align the upper spring seat (notch out on the front springs, arrow out on the rear springs).
- Use a punch to knock out the "Clevis bolts" (the bolts that hold the bottom of the strut to the knuckle). DO NOT turn them-- they are splined.
- When taking the 3 nuts off the top of the strut mount, DO NOT let a nut fly off into the engine compartment. ;-)
- The "trick" the previously mentioned web page talks about, where you use a spark plug socket and a smaller extension socket thru it, works very well for removing the top bolt from the strut and I highly recommend that approach.
- Make sure you put the bump stop back on with the wide end facing the top of the strut. ;-)
- Putting the strut back together was hard at first. Then I figured out that I could basically sit on it to compress it. I put the bottom of the strut on the ground, and sat around the top of the upper spring seat, placing all 175 lbs of my weight on the spring. Then, very quickly, I put a socket with the nut between my crotch and twisted quickly. ;-) [Don't get too excited, I was just putting the nut back on the top of the strut. If you figure out a better way (without using compressors) let me know.

]
- Although there are fewer moving parts on the rear struts, I found it very challenging to fit the Clevis bolts back in. What finally worked was to work the top bolt in, then use a floor jack and a piece of wood to lift the wheel hub, placing the wood block under the hub outside of the rotor.
Once I figured things out, it was pretty easy. But my initial attempts were fraught with mistakes (that's par for the course). ;-)
I hope this helps. You're mileage may vary. ;-)
Dan