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can you post the pics here...im banned for a week :oops: :roll: :wink:
 

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i posted a link to the American POW vid of them captured/murdered in Iraq. I didnt know it was gonna offend them that much..every other forum was cool about it except them. I'll fail to comment what i think of Admin i'll just take my week and wait..now can someone please show me these pics!
 

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I LIKE I LIKE EVERYTHING ON IT!
 

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How much of a drop is that?..looks like you'd have to be real careful with speed bumps, train tracks, roadkill etc..
 

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what kinda springs are those used there?? i'm interested in a set of those for my 2k2

btw...fock neons.org........they'll ban anyone for every damn thing....communist bastards

Brett
 

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I think it is a good hight. But I would like a kit that would even out the car a bit more, a little lower in back or a little higher in front. Once we lower our cars we will need to be VERY carefull of the front end. It is all ready pretty low. :D

So how does it ride????
 

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The kit used was the Eibach Pro-Kit #2820.140. I'm picking mine up today and will be installing this weekend. I'll post pics when I'm done.
 

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drolander said:
The kit used was the Eibach Pro-Kit #2820.140. I'm picking mine up today and will be installing this weekend. I'll post pics when I'm done.
I installed the kit yesterday. I think the car looks sweet, and handles great. The weather is terrible today (it's snowing) so I'll wait a day or two and then post pics.
 

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Angry SRT said:
How does it handle? And are your launches harder or easier?
Well, it's snowing, so I can't really push it now. I've also replaced the motor mounts, so that changes the launch too. But the ride quality is good. Not much firmer than stock. I'm sure there was some negative camber induced by replacing the springs, which is probably a good thing given the car's stock zero camber. I'll still have it aligned, but it feels good going around corners. The next fews days it should dry out and warm up into the 70's. That's when I'll really test it.
 

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drolander said:
Well, it's snowing, so I can't really push it now. I've also replaced the motor mounts, so that changes the launch too. But the ride quality is good. Not much firmer than stock. I'm sure there was some negative camber induced by replacing the springs, which is probably a good thing given the car's stock zero camber. I'll still have it aligned, but it feels good going around corners. The next fews days it should dry out and warm up into the 70's. That's when I'll really test it.
Congrats on the springs!

What was the total on the springs & installation? Any problems on the install? Any pointers/warnings for the next guys getting them? Who installed them?

Thanks!
 

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RUgoinup said:
Congrats on the springs!

What was the total on the springs & installation? Any problems on the install? Any pointers/warnings for the next guys getting them? Who installed them?

Thanks!
Thank you!

I bought the springs from a local speed shop for $250. I'm sure you can get them for cheaper on the net, but I didn't want to wait. ;-)

That same shop has a mechanic, and they would've replaced the springs for me for around $500, but when I read that neonmike1 was able to install the same kit without spring compressors or special tools ( http://www.neons.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=89488 ) I decided to tackle the job myself, even though I had only replaced struts once before, and that was a long time ago.

I found this web page very helpful: http://home.hiwaay.net/~lbrewer/howtosuspension.html. It is not SRT-4 specific, but is Neon specific and the parts abouts the struts and springs were pretty much bang on, although I didn't mark things as suggested because I didn't see the point. It didn't look to me like there was any room for adjustment with the pieces I removed.

Things I learned along the way:

- Make sure the Eibach logo on the springs is right side up.

- Be sure to properly align the upper spring seat (notch out on the front springs, arrow out on the rear springs).

- Use a punch to knock out the "Clevis bolts" (the bolts that hold the bottom of the strut to the knuckle). DO NOT turn them-- they are splined.

- When taking the 3 nuts off the top of the strut mount, DO NOT let a nut fly off into the engine compartment. ;-)

- The "trick" the previously mentioned web page talks about, where you use a spark plug socket and a smaller extension socket thru it, works very well for removing the top bolt from the strut and I highly recommend that approach.

- Make sure you put the bump stop back on with the wide end facing the top of the strut. ;-)

- Putting the strut back together was hard at first. Then I figured out that I could basically sit on it to compress it. I put the bottom of the strut on the ground, and sat around the top of the upper spring seat, placing all 175 lbs of my weight on the spring. Then, very quickly, I put a socket with the nut between my crotch and twisted quickly. ;-) [Don't get too excited, I was just putting the nut back on the top of the strut. If you figure out a better way (without using compressors) let me know. :) ]

- Although there are fewer moving parts on the rear struts, I found it very challenging to fit the Clevis bolts back in. What finally worked was to work the top bolt in, then use a floor jack and a piece of wood to lift the wheel hub, placing the wood block under the hub outside of the rotor.

Once I figured things out, it was pretty easy. But my initial attempts were fraught with mistakes (that's par for the course). ;-)

I hope this helps. You're mileage may vary. ;-)

Dan
 

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daytonagts said:
I think it is a good hight. But I would like a kit that would even out the car a bit more, a little lower in back or a little higher in front. Once we lower our cars we will need to be VERY carefull of the front end. It is all ready pretty low. :D

So how does it ride????
Coilovers my friend :wink:
 

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How about air shocks. LOL :lol:
 
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