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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After installing my 25mm wheel spacers, I noticed the passenger front wheel sticks out farther than the driver’s side. I see other SRT-4 owner‘s that have had this issue. I will have the alignment checked of course, but I have a weird idea. What would happen if I put a 15mm spacer on the passenger side and left the 25mm spacer on the driver’s side? Has anyone ever done it? Is it safe?
 

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off the top of my head i think it would pull to the side with more spacing when you accelerate... but i may be wrong.
 
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Alignment is all I can think of. Is the back of the passenger wheel further in? Possible hard hit knocked something in the suspension out of wack perhaps, like they would be able to align it still but the strut is kinked or something else. I'd think that would be easy to see but you never know. A small issue in the strut might become a bigger issue further down towards the ground.

Your car probably hasn't been in any wreck has it? It looks so good I have a hard time believing it had ever been fixed after some sort of front end damage.

I would really lean towards fixing whatever the problem is versus doing on "offset" fix like that. Unless of course a shop tells you that it's just normal and not a problem, in which case there may be no true fix.
 

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I have heard of this issue with these cars (and some other cars too) generally it poses no issue other than cosmetic. Assuming the alignment is on point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Alignment is all I can think of. Is the back of the passenger wheel further in? Possible hard hit knocked something in the suspension out of wack perhaps, like they would be able to align it still but the strut is kinked or something else. I'd think that would be easy to see but you never know. A small issue in the strut might become a bigger issue further down towards the ground.

Your car probably hasn't been in any wreck has it? It looks so good I have a hard time believing it had ever been fixed after some sort of front end damage.

I would really lean towards fixing whatever the problem is versus doing on "offset" fix like that. Unless of course a shop tells you that it's just normal and not a problem, in which case there may be no true fix.
Not sure about a wreck but it has had a lot of high quality paintwork. 1st owner said it was vandalized and nothing showed on Carfax or Autocheck. I tend to believe him as he lives very close to me, I sold his Dad a new SRT-4, they both work at the Belvedere plant where they were built and everything else he told me about the car was true. He even invited me over to his house after I bought it and gave me more parts he had including brand new Dodge and SRT-4 emblems!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
off the top of my head i think it would pull to the side with more spacing when you accelerate... but i may be wrong.
You may be right, but my thought was if the 15mm on the right side and 25mm on driver’s side put both wheels the same distance out when looking at the fender then MAYBE the effect would be the same as if they were the same without spacers. Again, the first step is to get a 4 wheel alignment.
 

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Not sure about a wreck but it has had a lot of high quality paintwork. 1st owner said it was vandalized and nothing showed on Carfax or Autocheck. I tend to believe him as he lives very close to me, I sold his Dad a new SRT-4, they both work at the Belvedere plant where they were built and everything else he told me about the car was true. He even invited me over to his house after I bought it and gave me more parts he had including brand new Dodge and SRT-4 emblems!
If it was repaired under their own dime there would probably be nothing reported to carfax etc. Even some insurance companies screw up and don't report like they should. Your car is awesome though, even if the tire is a little off. Really really nice vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If it was repaired under their own dime there would probably be nothing reported to carfax etc. Even some insurance companies screw up and don't report like they should. Your car is awesome though, even if the tire is a little off. Really really nice vehicle.
Thanks again, I do like it and enjoy having such a rare and inexpensive car that is faster than much newer and more expensive cars!✌
 

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Off-topic but I have a similar problem with the passenger-side rear wheel sticking out further than the driver's side after having a dealership install the P4510870 Rear Adjustable Control Arms (two on each side). Alignments (plural) have helped but it is still visible if you know to look. Didn't mean to hijack the thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Off-topic but I have a similar problem with the passenger-side rear wheel sticking out further than the driver's side after having a dealership install the P4510870 Rear Adjustable Control Arms (two on each side). Alignments (plural) have helped but it is still visible if you know to look. Didn't mean to hijack the thread.
No problem, you didn’t hijack. But seems to me it should be called CARJACKED on car forums and hijacked on airplane forums ✈. Ha ha. Anyway your post got me thinking. The first owner did bolt up a big “h brace” kind of thing with control arms for a day at the drag strip which he gave me along with the slicks and other parts. Maybe when he removed it something got shifted?
 

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H-brace should not have affected anything, it is not bolted into any moving part, the front two bolts are under the radiator, and the rear two bolts are bolted into the crossmember. If the entire crossmember were tweaked there would be a lot more wrong than just the wheel out a bit. Now, that's specifically talking about the two most popular types of H-brace, Bwoody, and the other name escapes me at the moment. I've never seen one that would bolt into anything that pivots/moves, that would defeat the purpose. They are specifically designed to keep the front end of the car hooked into the crossmember to eliminate wheel hop.

I'm surprised he took them off, they are really good, unless he was having issues? I know with mine I had an absolute bxxxh of a time getting one of them to unscrew, because I hadn't messed with it in 15 years LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
H-brace should not have affected anything, it is not bolted into any moving part, the front two bolts are under the radiator, and the rear two bolts are bolted into the crossmember. If the entire crossmember were tweaked there would be a lot more wrong than just the wheel out a bit. Now, that's specifically talking about the two most popular types of H-brace, Bwoody, and the other name escapes me at the moment. I've never seen one that would bolt into anything that pivots/moves, that would defeat the purpose. They are specifically designed to keep the front end of the car hooked into the crossmember to eliminate wheel hop.

I'm surprised he took them off, they are really good, unless he was having issues? I know with mine I had an absolute bxxxh of a time getting one of them to unscrew, because I hadn't messed with it in 15 years LOL.
I’m pretty sure it is the Bwoody. I think he took it off for clearance after he lowered the Coilovers. It seems like a beefy brace, but Since I have no wheel hop I left it off.
 

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Off-topic but I have a similar problem with the passenger-side rear wheel sticking out further than the driver's side after having a dealership install the P4510870 Rear Adjustable Control Arms (two on each side). Alignments (plural) have helped but it is still visible if you know to look. Didn't mean to hijack the thread.
My car has the P4510870 Rear Adjustable Control Arms (two on each side).
No problem with either rear wheel sticking out.

Assuming the car hasn't been in an accident and that the chassis is straight...
Perhaps the original installer didn't properly measure the lengths of all 4 units before the install?
I would think about taking them off, carefully checking the lengths of each of them, reinstalling, re-aligning.
 

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I’m pretty sure it is the Bwoody. I think he took it off for clearance after he lowered the Coilovers. It seems like a beefy brace, but Since I have no wheel hop I left it off.
I can see that, even now if I leave my driveway a little too fast (it has a gradual slope to the street) I will skim the concrete on the way out, that's with stock suspension.
 

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My car has the P4510870 Rear Adjustable Control Arms (two on each side).
No problem with either rear wheel sticking out.

Assuming the car hasn't been in an accident and that the chassis is straight...
Perhaps the original installer didn't properly measure the lengths of all 4 units before the install?
I would think about taking them off, carefully checking the lengths of each of them, reinstalling, re-aligning.
I should have started a new topic rather than hijacking this one. No, no accidents and the chassis is straight. The former Dodge dealership in Mound City, MO (Laukemper's) did the install several years ago. Hendrickson Dodge in Monticello, IN couldn't fix this nor could Tire Central Goodyear in Avon, IN (where I take my company vehicle). Goodyear suggested a custom suspension shop (Raymond's Auto & Truck Repair in Plainfield, IN) and they had the car overnight two years ago. It is better but still noticeable.
 

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I had a similar issue when I first got my srt4...the left rear wheel had large negative camber and the right rear wheel had close to 0 camber. My car had coilovers and dcr rear adjustable control arms. I did have to get these massive 3 degree rear camber bolts (H&R TC212 rear camber bolts) to fix my issue. I had my car aligned about 8 or 9 times in total before getting it right. I still don't fully understand why but also maybe something to do with the rear knuckle as well as the control arms...

I've read a post or two where replacing or messing with the rear knuckle fixed the uneven poke of the wheels and also alignment issues, I'm not sure.

I have a stock rear control arm somewhere that would like to measure its length vs the adjustable control arms and see if they are the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
When I had the stock wheels, visually it looked fine, but a couple of times I heard a slight scraping sound over very big bumps. It was pretty low so I just thought the Coilovers needed to be raised. If I had just done that I would probably never noticed the extra poke. Installing the aftermarket wheels and spacers is how I noticed so even though they have been a pain in the ass, at least it alerted me to the issue!
 

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I had a similar issue when I first got my srt4...the left rear wheel had large negative camber and the right rear wheel had close to 0 camber. My car had coilovers and dcr rear adjustable control arms. I did have to get these massive 3 degree rear camber bolts (H&R TC212 rear camber bolts) to fix my issue. I had my car aligned about 8 or 9 times in total before getting it right. I still don't fully understand why but also maybe something to do with the rear knuckle as well as the control arms...

I've read a post or two where replacing or messing with the rear knuckle fixed the uneven poke of the wheels and also alignment issues, I'm not sure.

I have a stock rear control arm somewhere that would like to measure its length vs the adjustable control arms and see if they are the same.
My apologies to Fatelvis for hijacking his thread.

I too have coilovers (Mopar Performance Stage 2). Laukemper's replaced the OEM knuckles but I had the OEM ones reinstalled later after having them powdercoated (this was at Hendrickson Dodge in Monticello,, IN and I followed thepowertowin's instructions as to where the knuckles could be powdercoated). I hope that this didn't cause my problem.
 
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