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Discussion Starter #1
The P2302 Is Ignition Coil #1
The P2305 Is Ignition coil #2

These codes were later recorded when I got to the shop... BEFORE that I got a U110C code that I pulled on the SCT,.. When I was at the shop these 2 "P" codes came up and the "U" code was gone..


So what does #1 ( P2302 ) and #2 ( P2305 ) secondary circuit - Insufficient Ionization actually mean?
 

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According to the diagnostics for those codes, it saying that the pcm detects that the secondary part of the ignition system (plugs, wires, coil) has an incorrect burn time or not firing at all. Possible causes: plugs, wires, coil, asd power circuit from relay to coil, coil control circuit from pcm, or pcm. So pretty much, are any cylinders misfiring? What do your plugs and wires look like? Coil? Is your wiring ok? If all of that is ok, then it has an internal pcm issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
According to the diagnostics for those codes, it saying that the pcm detects that the secondary part of the ignition system (plugs, wires, coil) has an incorrect burn time or not firing at all. Possible causes: plugs, wires, coil, asd power circuit from relay to coil, coil control circuit from pcm, or pcm. So pretty much, are any cylinders misfiring? What do your plugs and wires look like? Coil? Is your wiring ok? If all of that is ok, then it has an internal pcm issue.
Plugs looked good.. The wire boot on cylinder 4 seemed like it wasnt clicking down on the plug, so that why I was looking at new plugs and wires first as they are pretty cheap.. It was just bucking so bad, especially under light throttle, I didnt know if it was spark/ignition, fuel or electrical... I also read that the clip/harness that goes into the coil tends to also go bad?
 

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Yeah defntly go with the plugs n wires, as i seen u were looking for some in the other thread
 

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Im having this same issue. Started today before I went to work, pulled out plugs and made sure gap was correct anf equal on all plugs. Just changed the coil rite now it seems better but I noticed that the sensor had oil on it. The oil is from when I had a stripped bolt on the valve cover but I fixed that and cleaned up the sensor as best as I could. Going to be heading home rite now and see f it still hicups....if it still does, going to inspect injectors and possibly my wire harness but if everything checks out, wat else should I look into? Also, should I do some wot pulls or just drive it normally for now?
 

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I would look into ignition wires. U have the same codes?


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 

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I would look into ignition wires. U have the same codes?


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
yea same codes. havnt thrown the code again but my car still is doing this hick-up type symptom and then goes into limp mode and feels like if im running on 3 cylinders. but i did change my spark pugs, wire, coilpack, and also since i have a wot box, i read in a old thread that maybe it can be related to the issues i was encountering...sent jon an email about it last nite and will see wat he says about it today...maybe could be that i need a software update or need to change the settings on my wot box...idk, will find out today.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
after i changed the plugs and wires the bucking stopped, permanently...

Still had the stock coils
 

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Okay,I'll try changing the wires again, I had aftermarket ones all this time and then I regapped my plugs, and noticed that one plug wasn't clipping in from I could feel and so I cut some of the rubber of the boot thinking it could clip it in better but I guess it might be causing an arc of some sort.
 

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Did you ever get it figured out. Imitating the same issue myself. I was coming home and my car started jolting like it would turn on and off Amd then it was fine. A few min later again it was bucking back and forth bad then I look at my Afr quick and they were all ---- and I 2as just gliding as my car just shut down. I put it in 4Th and bulb started it while driving on the hwy and it started right up. Both codes P2302 and P2305 came up. I just put a new coil, plugs and wires on 2weeks ago Amd even before that my car did the same thing a few weeks before. That's why I changed all that stuff but now it's back. So what did you guys do to fix this issue? I will check the harness that's connected to the coil. Other then that I dunno what to do. I'm sure if I take it to the dealership they will just look at it and say we have no clue your car is not stock we don't know what you did to it. Mean while if you think about it all I have is a stage 3 kit with bolt on. Anyways if anyone has input and how you got your fixed please help.
 

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I wonder how many of us having this same damn problem have a msd tach driver in their car? Cause once again my car us bucks g back and forth while it actually turning on and off while I'm driving and I'm getting P2302 and P2305. And I was thinking about it and you need to cut a wire on your harness that goes to your coil to install the msd tach driver. Now I wonder if a bad msd tach driver can cause this issue. I have a digital autometer shift light with rpm read out. And every single time my car bucks backs and forth my shift light goes off and the rpm's go all over the place on my shift light. However my rpm gauge in my car reads just fine. It's my autometer shift light that goes crazy and that's connected to my msd tach driver. So maybe I will take that msd tach driver out and re-connect that cut wire on my coil harness and see what happens. But how many of you guys have a msd tach driver?
 

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Was this issue ever figured out. I'm still having this problem.
 

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I wonder how many of us having this same damn problem have a msd tach driver in their car? Cause once again my car us bucks g back and forth while it actually turning on and off while I'm driving and I'm getting P2302 and P2305. And I was thinking about it and you need to cut a wire on your harness that goes to your coil to install the msd tach driver. Now I wonder if a bad msd tach driver can cause this issue. I have a digital autometer shift light with rpm read out. And every single time my car bucks backs and forth my shift light goes off and the rpm's go all over the place on my shift light. However my rpm gauge in my car reads just fine. It's my autometer shift light that goes crazy and that's connected to my msd tach driver. So maybe I will take that msd tach driver out and re-connect that cut wire on my coil harness and see what happens. But how many of you guys have a msd tach driver?
Is the MSD tach driver soldered into the harness? If not I would do so. If it is, I would uninstall it and the shift light to see if that takes care of your problem.
The stock Tach if IRC gets the RPM signal off the databus from the PCM, which in turn uses the crank sensor for engine speed. I am not 100% sure on this, it could be using the cam sensor too or both.
 

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Yes my tach driver is soldered.
I just replaced the crank sensor however I did not change the cam sensor but I haven't had any bad cam sensor symptoms. But it wouldn't hurt to change it. And I will disconnect the tach driver and see if that helps. My shift light is connected right to the driver so unhooking the driver will also disconnect the shift light. But it's worth a shot. I will try everything before I take out my pcm, throw in my stock one and get it fully custom tuned.
If you look at the service manual and type
P2302 and P2305 they are together and shows how to check and fix it but for some of the trouble shooting I need a DRB3 and a Miller Special Tool #8815
If you google that Miller tool #8815 it actually plugs into the pcm ports and the harness plug that goes to the pcm. I just don't know it shows you if a pin or whatever is good or bad. I can't tell from the pics and I can't find any instructions.
 

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Well my mechanic just called and said he fixed the issue. He said it was the msd tach driver. I guess he did some voltage test and with the tach driver the coil was only getting like 11volts and without it the coil was getting full 14volts.
But the strange thing is that after all the searching on the Internet I can't find anyone that had this same issue with the tach driver. So now I have no autometer shift light. If buy chance you or anyone sees something online about someone else having this issue due to the msd tach driver can you please send me the link?
I guess I will drive it and see what happens.
 

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I wonder how many of us having this same damn problem have a msd tach driver in their car? Cause once again my car us bucks g back and forth while it actually turning on and off while I'm driving and I'm getting P2302 and P2305. And I was thinking about it and you need to cut a wire on your harness that goes to your coil to install the msd tach driver. Now I wonder if a bad msd tach driver can cause this issue. I have a digital autometer shift light with rpm read out. And every single time my car bucks backs and forth my shift light goes off and the rpm's go all over the place on my shift light. However my rpm gauge in my car reads just fine. It's my autometer shift light that goes crazy and that's connected to my msd tach driver. So maybe I will take that msd tach driver out and re-connect that cut wire on my coil harness and see what happens. But how many of you guys have a msd tach driver?
The big clue for me is that shift light turning off and on. What I take from that is that power to the ignotion circuit is going off and on, and THAT is most likely the Automatic Shutdown Relay.
 
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