P0344, and P0340.. THE FIX!!
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Thank you HybridKid,
I have the service manual. I'm just not as experienced as many of you guys are when it comes to mechanics. I get in there, and Im not afraid to get dirty; Is just that many times due to experience, you guys know ways that work better than the ideas I could come up with by looking at the manual, hence the call for help and advise from the experience people.
I get it though, it gets a bit annoying when somebody asks how to do something they clearly have no idea how it works. You almost want to tell them "just pay a profesional man". For me, at this particular time is simply not a choice.
Regards,
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6,838 Posts
Not trying to bash you or anything, before the internet and YouTube/Google us old guys learned like you are doing now by getting dirty. Personally with everything I did/do I read books before and after I wanted to learn or figure anything out.
I guess it helped me with cars that my family owned garages back in time and we couldn't just run to Walmart or order from Amazon, we had to figure it out or make our own.
Just take your time and Practise Safety.
I guess it helped me with cars that my family owned garages back in time and we couldn't just run to Walmart or order from Amazon, we had to figure it out or make our own.
Just take your time and Practise Safety.
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15 Posts
It's been a while guys..
I just wanted to come back and post what the issue was, hopefully the info will help a nooby like myself.
My issue was the timing belt. The crankshaft sprocket stripped the teeth of the belt, so when the engine was turning, the belt was not moving, I'll attach some pics.
I was able to do the whole thing by myself. Not so bad, at the end the car started, ran and everything; BUT... I was off on the timing. I didn't feel like doing the whole thing again, so I ended up paying a local guy that all he does are SRTs. Runs like a champ now.
now TECHNICALLY, the P0340 code was right, the PCM was not getting signal from the Cam Sensor, and DOH!! it will never do if the cams aren't moving. I just really wish the service manual would have added a broken timing belt as part of the troubleshooting procedure.
I guess it comes down to experience at the end.
I hope it helps somebody.
I just wanted to come back and post what the issue was, hopefully the info will help a nooby like myself.
My issue was the timing belt. The crankshaft sprocket stripped the teeth of the belt, so when the engine was turning, the belt was not moving, I'll attach some pics.
I was able to do the whole thing by myself. Not so bad, at the end the car started, ran and everything; BUT... I was off on the timing. I didn't feel like doing the whole thing again, so I ended up paying a local guy that all he does are SRTs. Runs like a champ now.
now TECHNICALLY, the P0340 code was right, the PCM was not getting signal from the Cam Sensor, and DOH!! it will never do if the cams aren't moving. I just really wish the service manual would have added a broken timing belt as part of the troubleshooting procedure.
I guess it comes down to experience at the end.
I hope it helps somebody.
Attachments
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4 Posts
Matte where is the Camshaft Sensor Magnet located? I have replaced 4 Cam Sensors, 2 aftermarket 1 Dealer (MOPAR) part with no luck, think I need to replace the magnet before I replace a whold bunch of other parts.
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4 Posts
Bitts, I am new to this, where exactly do I look for the Camshaft Position Sensor magnets? Are they on the opposite side of the motor from the CPS? Or near it?
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4 Posts
Thank you, I will try that, I assume the dealership is the only one who has the Camshaft Magnets? I am looking and don't see them at Autozone, Advance auto?
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4,953 Posts
I dont know how the price compares to the dealership, but you can order them from modern performance...
Mopar OEM Cam Sensor Magnet, 03-05 Neon 2.0L / 03-05 Neon SRT-4 / 03-10 PT Cruiser
If your Neon has been running a little rough and giving you a CEL, a common code is P0344. This code is for CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR INTERMITTENT. The idle can be rough and the engine will not rev past 2300rpms with this code. Replacing the sensor with an OEM unit will sometimes help but in some...
www.modernperformance.com
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4 Posts
I have two codes that keep popping up, P0340 and P0344, both of which tie back to the Camshaft Sensor, which I have changed 3 times in my 2010 Dodge Challenger RT 5.7 Hemi. The car has a recent oil change with engine flush, hoping the crud in the engine would clean up a bit, since it does have 149K miles. When the codes are off, it runs like a raped ape, when they are on it is in limp mode with the engine light and the traction control light on as well? Any input would be great! I called the dealership, they are telling me that there is not a camshaft magnet associated with this car/engine and that it has a Tone Wheel or Tone Ring on it?
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4,953 Posts
Ok, knowing that you have a Hemi... and NOT an srt-4 changes things a lot! Sorry, i guess i just made that assumption.
I am very unfamiliar with those cars and that motor, so i am not going to be of much help. I will add that the CRANK position sensor and the CAM position sensor work together so the ECU knows the overall timing of the engine. If one of those is getting a bad reading, the ECU may not know which one it is giving the wrong reading, and therefore throw a code for the wrong one. We see that with the SRT-4s.
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26 Posts
I just replaced my cam sensor and magnet, easy 20 minute fix and car is running perfect now. It was the typical wouldn’t run normal over 2300 rpm. BUY THE MOPAR PARTS (sensor and magnet) OFF OF MODERN PERFORMANCE!!
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4,953 Posts
i have to be one of the few people who has never had to replace either... (it'll probably fail this week now that i said that)
Same thing happened to my neon I replaced the Cam Crank sensor and magnet all 3 from autozone it worked fine for a couple of days but it at it again
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152 Posts
So i have a 03 and it recently threw a P0340 code but the car revs past 2300rpm and drives normally. Although sometimes too when i shut off the car after driving it and go to turn it back on it doesn’t want to start. It’s cranks and everything but doesn’t start. It only starts back up after it has been sitting for a few hours.. Anyone have any ideas? I’ll definitely be changing the crank and cam sensors as well as the magnet and see if that helps anything. I just thought it was weird because I’m not having the typical symptoms everyone else has had.
It could be the sensor, but it could be the wiring. The pigtail flexes alot and the wires can break internally. Those are available for replacement. The harness could have an intermittent open anywhere else. Also the pin on the ecu could be making poor contact or has recessed...
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152 Posts
Thank you for the reply. I’ll check out the wiring and see if there’s anything loss of broken
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