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If you swapped the ignition lock cylinder so you can use the key and SKIM that came with the other Stage 2 parts, you shouldn't that key and your original key on the same keychain. It's not about which one you use to unlock the car, it's about the SKIM reading the chip on two different keys and possibly picking your original key, which wouldn't match the codes on the new SKIM and S2 computer.

A P0340 code for camshaft position sensor will not cause a problem with the SKIS security features. If you're plugging an inTune into the OBD-II diagnostics connector and not seeing the computer that's probably your problem. Check and re-seat all the connectors at the computer. One of them probably came loose and the ODB-II port and SKIM (module) can't talk to the computer.
 

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so if the old key is on same key ring then it can interfere with the skim reading i thought a key wasnt read untill it was inserted into tumbler, thanks for that information i had no idea. and i will check all of that i appreciate the help.
 

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No, it's non-contact and only has to be in close proximity to the antenna, which is the round part of the SKIM assembly that goes around the ignition cylinder under the steering column cover. It normally shouldn't be a problem if that key isn't programmed to the SKIM and computer but there's a chance for interference which is why you might want to try inserting just the new key by itself and see if there's any change. I suspect if your inTune can't see the computer over the OBD-II connector there's another electrical problem and a connector isn't seated right so take a look at that first.
 

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so new update i went out to my car it started right up no issues at all no codes ran great went for ride it was like shorting out came right home shut car of red light back on no fuel pump no crank. scanner could not read ecm unplugged battery for 5 min came back plugged scanner in same thing waited for intune to boot up then after about 25 30 sec fuel pump kicked on car fired right up but same shorting issue im completely stumped. i no there has to b a short or something somewhere i just am confused on to why sometimes it starts and the na second later its dead
 

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Did you verify the connectors at the computer are all fully seated? It sounds like there's a wiring problem and if it was running fine before you installed all the Stage 2 parts and the different SKIM, those would be good things to double-check and make a connector isn't loose.

Also some advice, if you're connecting the inTune to use as a scan tool is fine but I'd absolutely not try to flash a different tune or change any parameters if you have intermittent connectivity problems talking to the computer. All it takes is for the car's PCI data bus (wiring connection) between the ODB-II port and the computer to have an error or cut out mid-write and you could brick the computer. Using the inTune just as a scan tool and data logging should be fine.
 

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yes i am just using my buddys intune as a scanner. nothing more as i didnt have a scanner so i have been using his i did notice that the lil black box noise suppressor the tab is broke off on mine i just ordered a new one waiting for it to come in. i dont no if that can be an issue with my red security light or not but i am going to hook new one up and then check all fuses/relays i may even replace relay/ it pulses when i first turn key on but i dont no if thats normal or not the red security light stays on. then ill hook battery back up and hope for the best. if that doesnt solve my issue i am going to look at getting a new wireharness as that can possibly be my issue i just want my car back to be honest was so stoked when i replaced cam sensor harness n had no codes n i thought it was all good and now this shit happens just my luck and the cold weather is rolling in
 

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Hey Guys,

I'm having the same code, but slightly different issues. I was driving normally, and at stop sign the car just stalled. It will not start again. Engine cranks but it won't start. The code Im getting is P0340.

At first I thought it was the alternator, since the voltage was about 12.4v, but Im thinking I might have discharge it by tying to start the car over and over again. If I jump it, I see 13.4v, but still won't start.

This is what I did:

1) Replace the Cam Sensor 2 times (from auto zone)
2) replace the magnet (also from auto zone)

For each replacement I did disconnect the battery. Now, I'm starting to consider I have a wiring problem. From the CAM Sensor I understand the center is ground (brown/yellow), The left should be 5v from the PCM (Violet/white), and the right one should be be the sensor signal (Tan/yellow). But for that one, Im getting also 5v. Is this condition normal? any ideas?

Thanks,
 

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The cam sensor is a hall-effect sensor, so take a look at this Wiki article to understand why you are seeing voltage on the signal wire. It might be a little high but that could be by design for 'that' sensor. You should use only Mopar sensors in these cars.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hall_effect_sensor
 

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The cam sensor is a hall-effect sensor, so take a look at this Wiki article to understand why you are seeing voltage on the signal wire. It might be a little high but that could be by design for 'that' sensor. You should use only Mopar sensors in these cars.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hall_effect_sensor
Thank you for the response...

Since the AutoZone sensor is doing exactly what the OEM sensor is doing, I setup a test (or so I hope) for the OEM sensor, and I think is working. Would you look at the video and give your opinion?



Thanks,
 

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IIRC there are about 7 magnets in the 'trigger' of the OEM. It looks to be working correctly but it is difficult to tell since you are spinning the trigger with all those magnets in it. Try using a single magnet to slow down the actuation of the sensor so the meter can catch up.
Note: I do not recall if this is the case with the OEM sensor but so you know the trigger might be magnetic polar specific to turn On and Off. Meaning it might use the North Pole of the magnet to turn on the sensor and the South Pole to turn it off.
 

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IIRC there are about 7 magnets in the 'trigger' of the OEM. It looks to be working correctly but it is difficult to tell since you are spinning the trigger with all those magnets in it. Try using a single magnet to slow down the actuation of the sensor so the meter can catch up.
Note: I do not recall if this is the case with the OEM sensor but so you know the trigger might be magnetic polar specific to turn On and Off. Meaning it might use the North Pole of the magnet to turn on the sensor and the South Pole to turn it off.
Thanks Hybrid,

I will try that a well. There is something really bothering me though. Everything I've seen so far, even the service manual pensions running tests with the engine running. Mine will not start at all (well, it cranks but won't start). Should I be looking at something else?
 

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Well the code you are having as you know;
CAMSHAFT SENSOR CIRCUIT - No camshaft position sensor detected (no fuel sync)
All I can tell you at this point, if the wiring checks out all the way back to the PCM it could be only 3 things left; (1) the sensor (2) the magnets (3) PCM
The PCM is the last resort and usually the cause of this error in the past has been the sensors and magnets. Since you bought an Autozone sensor and magnet I am going to say to get a MOPAR set and try that first and check the wiring while you source or wait for them to come in.

Going forward, just so you know, when it comes to sensors and coil packs, it is Highly recommended we have found to use MOPAR ones.
 

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Yup what HybridKid said. MOPAR only for sensors. Don't cheap out. Everyone I know locally tried to save $$ and bought their cam sensor at autozone and it does not last at all for whatever reason. A local changed the autozone one 3 times in 2 months. Then he finally got a Mopar sensor and magnet, never had issues after that. Torque to spec disconnect battery and reconnect battery. Also look into replacing the crank sensor too if that doesn't fix it.
 

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Yup what HybridKid said. MOPAR only for sensors. Don't cheap out. Everyone I know locally tried to save $$ and bought their cam sensor at autozone and it does not last at all for whatever reason. A local changed the autozone one 3 times in 2 months. Then he finally got a Mopar sensor and magnet, never had issues after that. Torque to spec disconnect battery and reconnect battery. Also look into replacing the crank sensor too if that doesn't fix it.
Thanks guys,

I will pick a set from the dealer tomorrow and let you know how it goes. In my defense, I didn't do it to cheap out lol. I did it because since it's the second time it happens, I thought I should get a set with lifetime warranty, but how good is to have lifetime on it, if the damn car won't start.

BTW, when the sensor is messed up for whatever reason, does the PCM "stops" the coil from producing spark to prevent the car from starting? I noticed there is no spark, but last time the sensor failed, the car would start and run, I just could not go over 2,500 RPM.

Any comments on that one?
 

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Thanks guys,

I will pick a set from the dealer tomorrow and let you know how it goes. In my defense, I didn't do it to cheap out lol. I did it because since it's the second time it happens, I thought I should get a set with lifetime warranty, but how good is to have lifetime on it, if the damn car won't start.

BTW, when the sensor is messed up for whatever reason, does the PCM "stops" the coil from producing spark to prevent the car from starting? I noticed there is no spark, but last time the sensor failed, the car would start and run, I just could not go over 2,500 RPM.

Any comments on that one?
Disregard the last question... I found the answer. lol

If there is a newbie like me wondering the same questions, here is the answer, I hope it helps somebody.
 

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Yeah my buddy kept taking advantage of the Autozone lifetime warranty sensors but he got tired of switching it out all the time.

I wouldn't buy it from a dealer you can find it online for cheaper. Dealers upcharge their parts like crazy. Roughly 30% or more.
 

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Yeah my buddy kept taking advantage of the Autozone lifetime warranty sensors but he got tired of switching it out all the time.

I wouldn't buy it from a dealer you can find it online for cheaper. Dealers upcharge their parts like crazy. Roughly 30% or more.

Guys,

I got the sensor at Modern Performance, not bad, just about $43.00.

Now, Shit went horrible wrong real quick. If you are interested in the details, and have time, I'll tell you the whole story if you want to read it, but for now, let me give you the short version...

I dropped the the crank sensor bolt, INSIDE of the whole where the crank sensor goes.

Any suggestions? Im assuming there is no "easy" way out of this. please!! I'm all ears.

Thanks,
 

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It probably fell to the bottom of the oil pan. Put the front on ramps, this way the car is tilted backwards towards the oil drain.
Use a large magnet and start from below the sensor hole and drag everything back towards the drain. Do the whole oil pan this way just in case. Then use a smaller magnet pickup tool to shove into the drain and see if it catches anything, if it does, hopefully the screw is small enough so you can work it out through the drain.
Good luck.
 

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It probably fell to the bottom of the oil pan. Put the front on ramps, this way the car is tilted backwards towards the oil drain.
Use a large magnet and start from below the sensor hole and drag everything back towards the drain. Do the whole oil pan this way just in case. Then use a smaller magnet pickup tool to shove into the drain and see if it catches anything, if it does, hopefully the screw is small enough so you can work it out through the drain.
Good luck.
Thank you once again, for the quick response. So, if I understand right, the bottom of the crankshaft is connected to the oil pan? Does this mean, worse case scenario would be removing the oil pan, and I would have access to the bottom of the crankshaft?

I ask this because The oil pan gasket is linking a bit, and is something I was considering doing soon enough.

Regards,
 
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