P0344, and P0340.. THE FIX!!
441 - 460 of 497 Posts
Joined
·
16 Posts
hey guys recently had the p0340 code come up on car ive went through 3 cam sensors and 3 cam magnets. all from dodge dealer along with 2 crank sensors from dodge. i disconnected battery both terminals prior to working on car replace sensors and magnet as soon as i go to start my car every time its the same issue. wich im starting to believe its an electrical issue or connection issue. it cranks for about idk 8 sec be4 finially starting code is instantly on dash, as soon as i turn key ive reset pcm and all. i guess i should start by checking all connections could it possibly be a timing issue ? car idles smooth just breaks up at 2300 rpms btw thats the only code im throwing its a stage 2 car.
Joined
·
7,311 Posts
It will idle and run off just the crank position sensor up until right around 2k rpm in a fail-safe mode without the camshaft position sensor as you described. Was it running perfect before this started? How many miles are on the car? Were there any changes after installing the new sensors and magnet (i.e. ran ok for a short while or the never made any difference)?
If you haven't checked already I'd try re-seating the connectors at the computer (PCM). If the timing belt was old and hasn't been changed and the belt tensioner or idler pulley starts to wear out it is possible the belt could have slipped at the crank sprocket. That could cause the computer to read the difference as being too far off. You could rule this out by taking the upper timing belt cover off, manually rotating the engine over until it's at top dead center on cylinder 1 and making sure the intake and exhaust cams are perfectly in time and aligned.
Beyond that and given what you've already replaced I'd probably start tracing and testing the electrical connections per the powertrain diagnostics manual.
If you haven't checked already I'd try re-seating the connectors at the computer (PCM). If the timing belt was old and hasn't been changed and the belt tensioner or idler pulley starts to wear out it is possible the belt could have slipped at the crank sprocket. That could cause the computer to read the difference as being too far off. You could rule this out by taking the upper timing belt cover off, manually rotating the engine over until it's at top dead center on cylinder 1 and making sure the intake and exhaust cams are perfectly in time and aligned.
Beyond that and given what you've already replaced I'd probably start tracing and testing the electrical connections per the powertrain diagnostics manual.
Joined
·
16 Posts
It ran great for about an hour with just replacing the magnet with orig cam sensor then back to same so I purchased another new magnet and cam sensor. Same issue didn't fix it so purchased another new cam sensor and magnet and crank sensor changed every one same issue the code is instantly right back im going to check the timing to rule th atvout or see if that's it then I will check into electrical issues. Thanks I appreciate it for the response how many volts should b at the connector going to crank and cam sensor wires
Joined
·
16 Posts
Oh yes sorry car has 110k miles I have receipts with timing belt water pump being done at 98k miles. From previous owner I bough car with 106k miles
Joined
·
6,838 Posts
5v and they share the same splice junction.
I am not trying to be a [email protected]# but you can save yourself time and troubleshoot faster, instead of waiting for us old farts to respond, by downloading the service manual.
Joined
·
16 Posts
Thanks I'll search for it didn't no it was downloadable . Thought jt hsd to be purchased thanks again for everything
Joined
·
6,838 Posts
No prob. 'atroph' I think has a link to one in his signature.
Joined
·
16 Posts
So still never figured out the p0340 issue but now i have the red security light staying solid. I just replaced ecu skim tumbler a few weeks ago with a stage 2. Everything was fine besudes the p0340 now i have nothing when i start car no fuel pump crank nothing. Ive checked fuses my diablo intune powers up but says np ecu detected ready to sell this car just dont understand. How this could happen from just sitting in my driveway.
Joined
·
7,311 Posts
What do you mean "replaced the ECU SKIM tumbler... with a stage 2"? If the Sentry Key Immobilizer Systems (SKIS) senses a problem with the Sentry Key Immobilizer Module (SKIM) which is the part in the column that has the transceiver ring around the lock cylinder it will light the red dot light solid. That could be anything from a defective SKIM to a problem with the shared secret key (code) between the keys, SKIM and computer.
If you replaced the SKIM or the computer you have to reprogram everything with the dealer wiTECH/DRB-III scan tool. If you haven't replaced the SKIM and only installed a different computer such as a Mopar "Stage" kit computer all you need to do is program the VIN into the computer. It will set the P0633 code but the car will start and run. A problem with the SKIS will cause the vehicle to start for only a second or two but shouldn't be related to a P0344 or P0340 code for problems with the camshaft position sensor. If that sensor is bad the car will generally start and idle but usually not about a couple thousand rpms.
If you replaced the SKIM or the computer you have to reprogram everything with the dealer wiTECH/DRB-III scan tool. If you haven't replaced the SKIM and only installed a different computer such as a Mopar "Stage" kit computer all you need to do is program the VIN into the computer. It will set the P0633 code but the car will start and run. A problem with the SKIS will cause the vehicle to start for only a second or two but shouldn't be related to a P0344 or P0340 code for problems with the camshaft position sensor. If that sensor is bad the car will generally start and idle but usually not about a couple thousand rpms.
Joined
·
16 Posts
I bught a completw stage 2 kit new injectors map tip sensors pcm tumbler keys skim. I didnt think i had to have anything programmed. It started up few times no problem after replacing all the stage parts havent drove cause of the p0340 went to start car and nothing red security light no fuel no pump priming radio lights etc work i plug my intune up it boots up says no ecu detected.
Joined
·
7,311 Posts
How long did you leave it running after it started previously? Why did you replaced the SKIM and lock cylinders? Was the car previously stolen or gutted?
I'd suspect the the keys with their built-in transponder chip, the SKIM (module) and/or the computer don't all match. If you had no other reason to swap the SKIM and ignition keys you should only install the Stage 2 computer and program your vehicle's VIN to the computer.
If one or more of the components do not have the same "secret key" encryption code, you'd need to have the dealer try to program everything and I suspect most won't want to touch a car with all different computer and SKIM that have used parts swapped in. Best bet would be to reinstall your stock SKIM, lock cylinder so the stock keys can be used, then have your VIN programmed into the new S2 computer.
I'd suspect the the keys with their built-in transponder chip, the SKIM (module) and/or the computer don't all match. If you had no other reason to swap the SKIM and ignition keys you should only install the Stage 2 computer and program your vehicle's VIN to the computer.
If one or more of the components do not have the same "secret key" encryption code, you'd need to have the dealer try to program everything and I suspect most won't want to touch a car with all different computer and SKIM that have used parts swapped in. Best bet would be to reinstall your stock SKIM, lock cylinder so the stock keys can be used, then have your VIN programmed into the new S2 computer.
Joined
·
1,099 Posts
Guy's will sell The stage PCM, SKIM module , and keys so you don't have to go through the trouble of finding a dealer that can program the vin. Sounds like someone sold you one of thoes items that doesn't match the others.
Joined
·
7,311 Posts
Maybe off a totaled car that's being parted out and will never be driven again. And if that's the case it probably went to a salvage yard for a reason. If the car was totaled and had any front end damage the computer isn't in the best place for physical protection.
If you have access to a higher end scan tool you could check and see if it's something as simple as one of the components not matching. When saying the car started previously, telling us how long it ran would be helpful. With a mis-matched component in the SKIS chain you can usually get it to start for a few seconds but if the car was running for multiple minutes it would be less likely to be wrong component. The not start and solid red light does indicate a problem with the security system but it might be difficult to determine what is wrong without a scan tool. You can try the ignition key off-on-off-on toggle to read codes on the instrument cluster but won't display all chassis codes.
One other thing to check off the top of my head, if you swapped all those parts but didn't change the lock cylinders on the door and trunk, do you have your old key on the same keychain as the new ignition key? If so the SKIM might be reading the code off the old key and locking out out the computer.
If you have access to a higher end scan tool you could check and see if it's something as simple as one of the components not matching. When saying the car started previously, telling us how long it ran would be helpful. With a mis-matched component in the SKIS chain you can usually get it to start for a few seconds but if the car was running for multiple minutes it would be less likely to be wrong component. The not start and solid red light does indicate a problem with the security system but it might be difficult to determine what is wrong without a scan tool. You can try the ignition key off-on-off-on toggle to read codes on the instrument cluster but won't display all chassis codes.
One other thing to check off the top of my head, if you swapped all those parts but didn't change the lock cylinders on the door and trunk, do you have your old key on the same keychain as the new ignition key? If so the SKIM might be reading the code off the old key and locking out out the computer.
Joined
·
1,099 Posts
Good point blackbird, I always forget about keys being near another key.
Joined
·
16 Posts
sorry guys havent been able to respond faster. after swapping stage 2 parts in car it fired right up and stayed running no issues at idle till i shut it off.i started it again a few hours later no issues again as i have been trying to figure out the p0340 code so i been starting car n seeing if i had fixed it and no it wasnt gutted or stolen... i just didnt no if maybe p0340 would cause the red security light i heard about asd relay and fuses all being tied into cam/ crank sensor harness but i checked fuses maybe ill just grab new fuses n relays idk what else to do at this point i checked all grounds im just stumped ready to get rid of this car at this point. i plug my intune in and it powers up says no ecu detected. i read some forums that if asd relay or fuses were bad i wouldnt even have power to my intune scanner i also have no fuel pump etc no cranking and red security light.
Joined
·
16 Posts
i do have my old keys on my keychain. i have been using my key fob to lock and unlock my car. havent used my old keys that i can think of recently. if i did use my key to unlock my door would that cause an issue. if so how would i go about fixing that issue.
441 - 460 of 497 Posts
Join the discussion
